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beadlocks leaking

Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 5:46 pm
by UZJ40
if anyone has had this problem, have welded the inner rings on good, the welds look really good no visible holes. the outer rings bolted up real tight, but the tyres keep going down.

used soapy water and found leaks at the back of the inner ring which i used silicon all round but they still leak.

is silicon no use?, pressure blows it out?

Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 8:00 pm
by nottie
Try that tire repair in a can ;) Only problem is you need to put it in then go for a drive.

Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 8:12 pm
by junior80
where'd you get them made? I'm in the market for a set.

Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 8:58 pm
by nottie
roctoy designfab off this board. Cheap and bling :lol:

Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 9:21 pm
by YankeeDave
sounds like there is a problem with the welding,

what i'd do if i were you is to take the tyre off, and use that radiator repair putty over the area that is leaking. wait till it sets then put it all back together,


also if anyone is interested i can weld 6mm inner rings (24 bolt) to your rims in melb if you like

Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 9:57 pm
by MissDrew
I siliconed mine to stop them leaking, one of them was real bad and would be flat in about half a day.

I cleaned the rim very well.
Used heeps of silicon, basicly a full tube for 3 rims. 1 rim doesn't leak at all so it hasn't been done.
made it a nice thick and wide band that fully covered the weld all the way around the rim.
I then put the tyre on straight away while the silicon was still wet.
I then pumped the tyres up to 50 psi and then left them like that for a few hours.
Then I dropped the psi back down to normal and haven't had any problems since.
When I put new tyres on last year I cleaned the old silicon off and re did it all. I only did this because the tyres were off.

m

Posted: Tue Aug 21, 2007 10:20 pm
by sloshy
I use good old roof and gutter and they don't leak.
If u have the diamenions of the rings just get them cut your self
they only cost $10 a ring thats $80 bucks for bead locks, bolts are extra
The mark up for 4x4 parts here in OZ is bull$h!t.

Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 2:47 pm
by UZJ40
thanks guys, ill try guts method and see how it goes.

Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 6:46 pm
by nottie
$10 bucks a ring Pft what with a blow torch. Shorly the cost of steel is more then that :?:

Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 7:35 pm
by balzackracing
try "tyre slime"

Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 7:39 pm
by sloshy
nottie wrote:$10 bucks a ring Pft what with a blow torch. Shorly the cost of steel is more then that :?:
:finger: my bad... $80 for the cutting of the rings
the steel is about the same as you get alot of waste

Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 7:43 pm
by MissDrew
nottie wrote:Try that tire repair in a can ;) Only problem is you need to put it in then go for a drive.
No good for his problem as its the rims leaking not the tyre or the bead. When you put tyre crap in then go for a drive the force pushes it all OUTWARDS away from the rim.

Posted: Wed Aug 22, 2007 8:45 pm
by nottie
Ahh yes you are right there Guts
Roctoy used it in his and seemed to stop em leaking anyway

Posted: Thu Aug 23, 2007 12:09 am
by jav
nottie wrote:Ahh yes you are right there Guts
Roctoy used it in his and seemed to stop em leaking anyway
worked for me on one i could not stop leaking.

Posted: Thu Aug 23, 2007 1:40 am
by TEE JAY
If all else fails you could put in a set of tubes.

Posted: Fri Aug 24, 2007 5:32 pm
by Roctoy
go over the welding again mark (this sux cause the tyres are huge and already mounted, more silicone and as a last resort the tyre goop seemed to fix any leaks i had.

Chris

Posted: Fri Aug 24, 2007 7:02 pm
by RUFF
The main reason a lot of weld on bead locks leak is due to how they were welded. The beadlocks that my 37" BFG Krawlers are mounted on were welded at least 3 years ago. They have now been off the car for almost 2 years they are still holding air. Ive never sealed with Silicon.

A weld will normally only leak at the point you start and stop. Never weld rings on in small runs. I have seen people weld in 1" sections to stop the rim from buckling. This isnt worth worrying about as its rare that any cheap steel rim runs true anyway. Every beadlock i have welded i start and finish in the one spot only and run past the start spot by at least 1" when finishing.

Sure occasionally you will still get a leak but the chances are very slim if its welded this way.

Posted: Fri Aug 24, 2007 7:06 pm
by RUFF
Roctoy Designfab wrote:go over the welding again mark
Chris
Prob now is he has allready siliconed it and getting it clean enough to weld again now is going to be near impossible. Even adding an epoxy like the radiator repair stuff is going to be difficult because of the silicon.

Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 4:23 pm
by UZJ40
thanks guys,

Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 7:06 pm
by DIRTY ROCK STAR
well if anygood does come of this...
its others will learn from this.
i wouldnt have thought about the whole do 1 weld to stop it leaking but im onto it now.

best of luck with it mark.

and i hate to say it but good input there RUFF and......Guts...