Outer Limits 4x4 Board

just checking before i go to pic these up what u guys think

NT 1.3L hub to hub front and rear with lock rights installed with SPOA conversion with REAR DISK BRAKES

will they fit a LWB NT sierra

also problems that i will have with this and what needs to be done to fix

also is it worth about 4-$500

also what does WMS mean when it comes to track width

and will the diff centers etc fit WT diffs

cheers nick

they will fit however narrow track and spoa sounds a bit dicey. if the lockrights are working well and thats what you want then even without the housings then there is good value in it just for the installed difflocks, disk brake conversion which should bolt onto your standard diffs. (so long its not some hack job freak of nature brake conversion.) IN which case you don't want it anyway.

HE ALSO SAID I NEED M TRANSFER CASE TO LOOK LIKE THIS TO WORK MINE DOES BUT IS IT TRUE

I imagine he said this because wide track and narrow track flanges have a different bolt pattern. however the uni joints are the same so you can just swap them over.

if yours already has the handbrake (drum brake) setup like in the photo then why ask if it will work, your already using it as a hand brake
If your transfer case does not have the drum brake on the rear then you will want one And the Shafts to match it. so you will have a hand brake
The only conern would be wide track and narrow track flanges have a different bolt pattern, But if they are both N/T then yeah they should fit!(apparently )

Danzo wrote:if yours already has the handbrake (drum brake) setup like in the photo then why ask if it will work, your already using it as a hand brake
If your transfer case does not have the drum brake on the rear then you will want one And the Shafts to match it. so you will have a hand brake
The only conern would be wide track and narrow track flanges have a different bolt pattern,

lol im not to sure thats why i asked

yeah NO the disk brake conversion does not come with a hand brake
Nice score by the way,

NT & SPOA hope you got some serious offset rims or start going to the gym because you'll need to get some strength for flipping it back onto it's wheels

just cruizin' wrote:NT & SPOA hope you got some serious offset rims or start going to the gym because you'll need to get some strength for flipping it back onto it's wheels

was thinking of a body lift kit from u wats the price for a lwb anyway for it but will see how it goes i no im going to get spacers and big off set rims

cheers nick

For a LWB it's $215 including postage

ill get back to u soon

I believe, not 100% sure, that wt bolt holes used for caliper bracket are 45* out from NT, but is same pattern, so discs should fit a wt, just will lean forward or backwards a tad. This can mean bleeding can be a pain, and you just undo caliper, slide it to top for beleeding.

This could all be Cr@ p tho

Try_Me wrote:

just cruizin' wrote:NT & SPOA hope you got some serious offset rims or start going to the gym because you'll need to get some strength for flipping it back onto it's wheels

was thinking of a body lift kit from u wats the price for a lwb anyway for it but will see how it goes i no im going to get spacers and big off set rims

cheers nick

I don't mean to lose Just Cruizin' any potential business, but a BL will exaserbate any COG problems even more!!! SOA, and BL; what size tyre you want to run, 38's or something...

Maybe thats not your intention, I dont know, but be very careful of your vehicles roll-over-potential. Generally as you go higher you want to go wider, to maintain good stability. What the ratio should be, is open to debate; however ideally you would maintain the vehicles original height to width ratio (however basically no one does). Also as you go higher, you will exaserbate vehicle pitching, yours is a LWB, so this wont be so bad.

Is it just me or is the rear right spring perch welded on crooked?

Try_me:

WMS= Wheel mounting surface. It is a way of measuring the width of an axle that has no bearing on the wheels fitted.

1) Yes you got a good deal on those diffs, but just because you got a good deal doesn't mean they are right for you.

2) You may or may not hate the lockrights, do a search on them, they get very mixed reviews.

3)that rear diff has never been on a car on SPOA application - the spring pad hasn't been drilled. This makes me nervous as it might never have been proven.

4) No steering correction has been supplied from what I can see. Have a look at the Snake Highsteer knuckle. This is the best way to steer a SPOA sierra. All other ways are compromises.

5) SPOA and NT suck. Sierras need all the help they can get for stability - a NT car is too tall and narrow stock. Adding 5" of lift won't do it any favours. Widening it will help but offset rims and spacers play havoc with steering geometry and tyre fitment. think very carefully about if you want to spoa an NT car.

6) What do you know about the rear disk conversion? Many of these are done poorly and result in poor pedal and proportioning. They can be expensive and time consuming to troubleshoot. Was it ever run on the car? What did the owner do for proportioning/pedal?

7) You have 4.1 diff ratios now. NT ratios are 3.9, WT 3.7 depending on the tyre you want to run, you might find no advantage in swapping to the NT diffs. Put the 1.3 CV's in your 1.0 diffs, weld the rear and call it good. There is no substantial strength advantage in the 1.3 diffs- the weak point is always the CV.

8) If you want to run the NT diffs you will need 1.3 spring plates and U bolts

9) The biggie - What size tyre do you want to run? You have to build the car around the tyre or you will end up with a poorly set up car. You can run any tyre the driveline of a sierra will handle with a 2" BL and 2" spring lift, with lots of bodywork. you already have lots of rust to fix, now is the chance to work the guards to take the tyre you want and keep the car low.

Once again, how are you going with your engineer? You can engineer all the work required to run a bigger tyre without engineering the tyre on the car, so your big guards etc will be fine.... if you talk to an engineer before you do it.

Any work you are doing now *might* be a waste of time unless you decide on a motor and get an engineer to assess the car as it stands, and then you discuss what you want to do. The only way around that is to put a 1.0 in it and reg it as a stocker.

Steve.

sierrajim wrote:Is it just me or is the rear right spring perch welded on crooked?

Angle of the dangle
they both look crooked caus its rolled forward in the pic

I agree with Jim, the RHS perch looks on a different angle to me to the LHS one to me.

I agree it could be a trick of the photo.

PS sorry if what I posted sounds harsh, but buying secondhand SPOA converted axles is a real minefield.

I have pulled a couple of SPOA cars back to SPUA and some of the "tolerances" I have seen have been pretty sloppy.

In the case of those particular diffs, it looks to be like they have never been properly sorted on a vehicle (or on a vehicle at all in SPOA format) All of the hard work is still there to be done - shock lengths/brackets/brake lines/bumpstops/steering/track bars/spring setup.

If the diffs are in good nick and you can get on with lockrights, then $4-500 is a good price.

If the diff centres need rebuilding.... no, I don't think they're good value.

PS It's still hard to give you good advice Try_me without knowing where the build is going- as an example, if you are keeping the 1.0 master cylinder, then what the previous owner had to do get proportioning to work might not apply to you, but if you are going to a boosted master cylinder, then how are you dealing with the engineer and what is on the cert..etc etc etc.

As someone else said, if you keep your 1.0 transfer (and your car doen't have a 4WD light) you will also have to get driveshafts built as the flanges won't work - 1.0 is smaller than 1.3NT which is smaller than 1.3 WT. If you have a shift light transfer you can swap flanges.


Steve.

Just wondering where you got them , Cheers Paul.

i had a n/t spoa 2inch body and 2" spring lift on 31's and yes it was hi and narrow and i only put it on its side once , it depends on what you drive as to what suits you , i than put the diffs under another zook with no body lift and std springs and got 2" wheel spacers and it made it way more capable ,

and the snake hi steer is awesome compared to zlinks etc , i have one for sale for $200

i think for the $$ it sounds good , as long as you can mod things yourself if they need changing such as spring perches etc , and if ya want lower gearing ive got 5.12 for sale with centres cheap

oh did i mention i have wheel spacers that would fit them diffs give you an extra 4" for a mere $200

Jai

what im trying to do is build a capable 4wd its not going to be my daily as im buying another car but it will be for a few months i can live with that

steve as engineers go i havent spoken to one as i want it registered first then ill deal with them well thats what i want to do any who

but ye i would like min a 31's and most 35's but will see how that goes for now but for now looks like 31's

what are your thoughts on this and what way should i go??

What's the plan for an engine then? You'll need an engineers to reg it with the 4K. Do you plan on reg with a 1.0? I recall the car didn't come with a cert for the 4K.

Just run it on 31's. running 35's on a sierra is a massive job however you want to do it. It will be plenty capable on 31's.

Steve.

I ran nt hard top spoa , flat springs no load leaf , 15x8 f100 rims 31's , 45'd rear shocks (4" lifted hilux ones) , 1 small lean after I dropped the rear wheel in a hole climbing big ass rutted hole at appin. had it for 3 years ran gonnads xover steering , I reckon it was very stable at speed hwy or bush

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but I also had s/top nt spua with 2"springs +2 " shackles and 31" on f100 rims and was an absolute ball to drive slight rub on springs at full lock. but stable as all f$%* driving wit wheels in the air was a pleasure never onc felt like it was going to tip. the spoa hard top had alot more wheel travel though.

Gwagensteve wrote:PS sorry if what I posted sounds harsh

You should be quoting yourself in your own sig Steve.