Outer Limits 4x4 Board

does and one have any ideas on the front of a coily. im so over it.
i want to move the diff foward a bit maybe 10-30mm because my 31 are still hitting the fire wall abit after the virtual lift .
there isnt much room in the front with the tie rod on the back so i was thinking maybe moving the chassis mounts back make longer arms and maybe a x link
any one know if air shox would be able to be passed or would be any good.
also any one know some one that will even look at moding a 4x4 .
the guy on the central coast will not look at any mods

any info on this would be a help

oh yeah that guy?

bit more detail. What guy? I take it you mean the central coast of NSW.

Have you spoken to Sam at Overkill?

Theres plenty of options ...but as above contact Overkill and have a chat they have already modded a few coilys and jimnys to 3link panhard setup ( not radius arms)


here's also some old pics of a coily (steve Azzopardi's from memory ) it had some slight mods .....

That woulda cost so much to mod like that...

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j200/ ... Ezook2.jpg

It seems that the rear end is doing all the work from the body angle. It seems like it would have the same problem the BBM SCAT ATTACK did at Tuff Truck.

http://i80.photobucket.com/albums/j200/ ... Ezook7.jpg

What up with the little springs? Would do they do?

Cheers,
Sean

It could do with some more flex

X2 on the 3-link and p/hard. Its been proven to work well on zooks on a huge amount of rigs. Especially in the front.

Sean wrote:
It seems that the rear end is doing all the work from the body angle. It seems like it would have the same problem the BBM SCAT ATTACK did at Tuff Truck.

What up with the little springs? Would do they do?

Cheers,
Sean

It was a bit more balanced than it looked, but you are right to an extent. This car was recently for sale and the rear end was reworked with the coilovers up through the floor, I am guessing to improve roll stiffness in the rear.

I believe the little springs acted like a rebound stop - when the front end went to full droop they come into play and allow a little bit more droop once forced by the compressed tyre, and help to save the coilovers etc from topping out hard.

In relation to saffret's question, the interesting aspect of Steve's car was a wristed control arm - One front control arm had a sleeve that went right around the axle so it could pivot. This takes the bushing bind out of the front end so has a similar effect to an X link. The X-link is a better solution though.

Not being negative, but the amount of work in getting a coil front end to work properly (X link, panhard rod work, new coil/shock or coilover mounts, longer arms etc) is massive, and at the end of the day, you are still left with a unique front diff, axle lengths, knuckles etc. It would be worth the effort if the front end was all WT as there are options for axles and diffs, but I can't see the point of doing all the work on a stock coil front end.

If you swap to a WT front end, (which is 35mm narrower) then you have a base to work with, but be aware that clearances between the X-link, panhard and steering box will get plenty tight as the tie rod moves to the front of the axle.

I am not convinced airshocks are viable for a road driven car. They are high maintenance items and atmospheric conditions, load, and temperature have big impacts on their performance. They are very difficult to set up for use other than in a rock buggy from what I have seen.

Just my 2c.
Steve.