Outer Limits 4x4 Board

..............

would you be able to source parts for the td42 as well? as i think stronger bottom end parts etc would sell like hot cakes for these if they were off the shelf

Hi Badger.

Let me get back to you on that mate-I believe it'd be a goer though.

I guess the main thing you boys would be after is connecting rods, yes?


Sean

I think it would come down to cost. We all want more grunt...

LudaCris

con rods, and pistons that dont melt i guess

not that the stock ones are weak

Hmm.

Okay.

So you blokes using the TD motors suffer bent rods and melted slugs when the wick is wound up then?

badger wrote:con rods, and pistons that dont melt i guess

not that the stock ones are weak

Unless its had a big gulp of water, then I personally have not heard of such a problem with these big nissan sixes.

yep, I'd be interested in Tb42 parts and so would 3 or 4 mates
also have a mate who would definitely be very interested in 1fe-fz and TB48 performance parts.

MS-75 wrote:Hmm.
Okay.
So you blokes using the TD motors suffer bent rods and melted slugs when the wick is wound up then?

Not bent rods, but certainly melted / holed pistons, cracked heads and loose / broken pre-comb chambers. Essentially everything just gets too damn hot and something has to give.

ive seen 1 bent rod. was a comp motor tho and was reved very hard

I'd be keen on checking out some H-beam rods for a TB45 engine.
Also how much boost did you have in the 1FZ-FE when it made 550Kw.?

Cheers
Grant.

Cheers for the replies guys-I appreciate you taking the time.

I'm going to look at this a bit more seriously then and get a more detailed list of parts per engine together.

I'll also chase TD parts as well.

As I said before, feel free to email me with any questions regarding specific parts.

Grant, the motor had 26 pounds of boost plus a 100hp shot of nitrous. The engine was internally standard (cams, rods,ports, pistons, crank) apart from o-rings, a copper head gasket and head studs.

The motor was fine on the chassis dyno, but at the track with the increased load in top gear it kicked a conrod out at 110mph and put oil under the tyres-very, very, very scary. Nothing else was a miss-number 3 rod just cried enough, which is understandable give the 5x combustion pressure over stock.

What it did tell me was finally where the limit of stock parts was, which was one of my goals. This motor took 3 years of abuse, increasing turbo size and boost with ease, and I am quite comfortable with using nearly std 1FZs for 350-400rwkw applications. (I was continually disassembling the motor to check condition).

The TB48 is no different, and in many ways is superior due to being a touch more advanced.

Thanks again guys
Sean Gannon

Hi Sean,

Probably your best bet for a "bread and butter" kit that has the possibility to move numbers would be something to get bulk power out of the TB42 on LPG.
The GU engines come wrapped in cars that are still quite new and expensive, so far fewer people are prepared to start tearing into them, whereas the GQ's are cheap and readily available and the govt LPG rebate makes them a good, solid, economical base to play with.

id be interested in some go fast bits for the tb45

I am interested in TB45 parts, that is unless someone can tell me how to go about putting the TB48 in place of the 4.5 in my GU.
Cheers

segan1 wrote:that is unless someone can tell me how to go about putting the TB48 in place of the 4.5 in my GU.Cheers

take out the 4.5
go buy a complete 4.8
put the 4.8 in its place...

Check the thread by Raptorthumper .. his 4.5 turbo IC is fuckin awesome.

bogged wrote:

segan1 wrote:that is unless someone can tell me how to go about putting the TB48 in place of the 4.5 in my GU.Cheers

take out the 4.5
go buy a complete 4.8
put the 4.8 in its place...

Check the thread by Raptorthumper .. his 4.5 turbo IC is ***** awesome.

Im sure there is more to it than that Phuk nose.

yeah I would definatly be interested in tb42 (LPG) parts, anything to produce more power, and increase the reliability of a boosted motor!

how much to build one of these motors

segan1 wrote:Im sure there is more to it than that Phuk nose.

why? buy a complete donk, swap them, wire them drive off.

segan1 wrote:I am interested in TB45 parts, that is unless someone can tell me how to go about putting the TB48 in place of the 4.5 in my GU.
Cheers

nawh now dads goes harder u want more go

adam penfold wrote:

segan1 wrote:I am interested in TB45 parts, that is unless someone can tell me how to go about putting the TB48 in place of the 4.5 in my GU.
Cheers

nawh now dads goes harder u want more go

That was always the plan from the day I bought it as you know.

yer, old boys happy with his now

adam penfold wrote:yer, old boys happy with his now

Good stuff it hammers, amazing what a turbo can do.

segan1 wrote:

adam penfold wrote:yer, old boys happy with his now

Good stuff it hammers, amazing what a turbo can do.

considering it only running 7 psi,goes lyk phuck, u loved it i recon

adam penfold wrote:

segan1 wrote:

adam penfold wrote:yer, old boys happy with his now

Good stuff it hammers, amazing what a turbo can do.

considering it only running 7 psi,goes lyk phuck, u loved it i recon

Certainly did.

turbo rb30 in the gu mate? rofl

GQ4.8coilcab wrote:how much to build one of these motors

Yes, very, very nice motor that one.

91mm turbo, big log style plenum, direct port nitrous, billet rods, forged pistons, big cams, ported head.

Building a motor like that is no problem, it’s just a question of $$.

As a rough guide, it’d be (and I mean rough)

Turbo (Garrett plain bearing) $3000, (roller bearing) $4000+
Wastegate(s) $500-$1000
H-beam rods $1500-$2500 depending on brand
Forged pistons $1500+
Cams $1000-$1700 depending on source
Headwork $1000-$4000 depending on extent
Engine machining/assembly/bearings/rings $4000
Exhaust manifold $1000-$2000 depending on source/type
Intake manifold $500-$1500 depending on type and how much of the std one you use and if you put a bigger throttle-body on it or not (generally 90-100mm up from std 65mm one)
Direct-port nitrous $2000+
New ECU (Motec or Autronic ONLY at this level) $2400+
Injectors/pumps/regulator $1500+
Intercooler+piping $1500+
Radiator $1000
Sundries (tape, wires, nuts, bolts, oil, hose, coolant, clamps, miscellaneous welding etc etc) $2000+
Final dyno tuning $1000

Man-that list looks nasty when you add it all up.

That’s also assuming you can fit it all yourself.

HOWEVER- The truck above was built for all-out sand dune climbing and sand drags and produces over 1000hp. For desert racing or obstacle courses (“wheelingâ€

can you get tb48 stroker kits like BrianCrowers 5.15l

yep-almost ready for market

Forged pistons.
1200hp rated rods.
Billet stroker crank.

Cost is not pocket change obviously, but still a fair less than the Crower kit.