Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Oks...
I have done a search but to no avail. Im not the most mechanically minded person when it comes to suspension, but the thought of saving HUNDREDS of dollars on installing a 2" suspsension lift myself makes me wanna give it a go.

Is there any tips you fellas can give me on doing this?? anything i should look out for??

maybe someone can do up a step by step installation guide that can go into the bible for us not so mechanical guys??????

I know for most u guys it is a piece of piss, so im standing up for the rest of us nubs! ahah

FYI my car is a 91" SWB hardtop sierra.

Thankyou guys, i love you all (K)

I don't really have time to do a step by step now, but you will need the following:

17mm deep socket
17mm ring/open end spanner
14mm ring/open end spanner
Wheel brace
Hammer
Grease (Rubber grease if you're using rubber bushings)
A minimum of two sturdy axlestands (jackstands) *very important*
Ideally a trolley jack.

Pretty much do one corner at a time, this will mean there is no need to end up with an axle flopping around. It's a pretty simple remove and refit operation - jack up car, stands under chassis, undo shock, undo U bolts, undo shackle, undo spring bolt at chassis end, and then reverse process with new spring/shock in place.

I would recommend replacing the Ubolts with new ones.

There is a bit of a knack to installing and tensioning Ubolts, the nut tension needs to be the same on both legs of the U bolt and the amount of thread showig past the nut should also be the same for each side of the U bolt.

There should be no need to remove or split any of the braking or steering system.

When complete, the steering wheel will not sit level when driving straight ahead. his doesn't mean your alignment is out, suspension lift does not change wheel alignment on a Sierra. Remove the steering wheel (remove crash pad, undo 17mm nut that holds wheel on, with clenched fists beat hard and fast on 3 and 9 o'clock on the wheel like you are beating a big drum, remove wheel, replace in correct position)

It should take one day with the tools above in your driveway.

Steve.

Depending on the car and it's use in the last 16 years, expect some of the bolts on the chassis end of the spring (as opposed to the shackle) to be frozen solid within their crush? tubes. Of the 2 cars I've done springs on recently both had at least two of the four bolts frozen up good and proper. Grinder fixes this.
Recheck tension on ubolts etc.

Depending on ubolt brand include a 19mm socket in your tool list. Just a thought in case you get halfway there then get stuck with no car to drive to go get a socket. My rear and front near are all 19mm, and drivers front is 17mm. Correct part no.s straight out of the Ironman catalogue.

if bolts are hard to come off use oil spay to loosen the bolts u can buy something like this fom super cheap etc for cheap also in my case i couldnt have undone the bolts with out a pipe which fit around the spanner or the socket to give extra leverage helps a shit load belive me

cheers nick

so hows the brakes now , must feel good to be able to stop when you want .... that is if this is who i think it is ...

suzimad wrote:so hows the brakes now , must feel good to be able to stop when you want .... that is if this is who i think it is ...

??? not me if its me ur thinking about

not you , the OP

im pretty sure i was talking to him about this the other day.

suzimad wrote:not you , the OP

im pretty sure i was talking to him about this the other day.

i doubt u were talking to me??? u might have cant remember:S aha


thanks Steve and co that have replied, was exactly wat i was after!

maybe this should go in the bible for future refrences?????

Thanks fellas, and until the next nub ques.....

CW OUT!

OK time for the next nub ques...

anything i should know before i change the original steering dampner to the new one?? and hints or tips or instructions would be helpful,

cheers again,
CW

Nope, straight remove and refit.

Steve.