Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey,

Anyone made there own heat shields for the extractors?

As mine heat up heaps and making whole engine bay hell hot.

Nic

Lateer model Falcons (AU>) have this funny pressed aluminuim shiat
Cut it to siut your purpose

I have shielded a couple of turbos with this and it works well

Hijack,
How would this type of heat shield go for keeping synthetic winch rope coolish. As I am thinking of midmounting a PTO winch. But the cable would have to run pretty close to the turbo. Probably only 100mm lower. Oh and this would be on a GQ TD42 diesel.

Stainless works very well, i made a heat shield for my turbo from itand it works great.

The pressed stuff will work in any application
Basically it is a heat sink. Just make sure there is air gap BOTH sides
It looks similar to aluminuim corrugated carboard with heaps of louvers pressed ito it
Courragated surface and louvers provide a larger cross-sectional area and air flow for greater efficiency

Anybody got any pics?

I am guessin when making an extractor one make it so heat channels downwards?

Sounds a bit like this stuff
http://www.aclperformance.com.au/prod_heatshield.htm

Thats the stuuf only its cheaper from wreckers

beretta wrote:Stainless works very well, i made a heat shield for my turbo from itand it works great.

I might have to get a temp gun and see how warm it actually gets down there.
As in my case with the winch cable. It will be running pretty close to the chassi rail by the time it gets that far forwards.

ausyota wrote:Sounds a bit like this stuff
http://www.aclperformance.com.au/prod_heatshield.htm

Yep I put that stuff over my extractors on my FZJ105R GXL Landcruiser (1FZ-FE auto).

I hand-formed it, used tinsnips, pliers, and some brute stupidity to make it fit and functional...
Booty-fab special...

I learned the hard way... WEAR GLOVES WITH THIS STUFF!!!


Originally, with my IR temp gun, the surface of the extractors was up around 280 deg C after just driving around town.

I also have a semi-permanent under bonnet temp thermocouple (measured other side of engine bay near my LPG computer, with a digital meter and K-type thermocouple).

Here are some of the measurements I took after forming the heat shield:

Ambient temperature for both tests: ~20 deg, approx 60% RH, in Canberra (according to my cheapass weather monitor thingie)
Test drive a fixed distance at speed limit (total 8.5km to the shops for sausages and beer... whilst monitoring temps.

Without heatshield:
Extractor Surface (Cyl 6): 280 deg C
Peak LPG ECU Temp: 95 deg C (Fault code logged)
Passenger side engine bay air temp
@ standstill: 100 deg C
@ 100km/hr: 75 deg C
Drivers left side footwell metal surface temp: 35 deg C

With heatshield:
Extractor Surface (Cyl 6): 310 deg C
Heat shield surface (cool side): 110 deg C
Peak LPG ECU Temp: 65 deg C (No fault)
Passenger side engine bay air temp
@ standstill: 80 deg C
@ 100km/hr: 45 deg C
Drivers left side footwell metal surface temp: 50 deg C


Not a real scientifically valid test... but it worked.



So it dropped my under bonnet temperatures by a lot, but it traps the heat in the exhaust so it heats up the headers (which are Pacemaker brand and are already heat-treated) and makes the driver footwell a bit hotter.
Which makes sense because the extractors are pretty much right next to the firewall there anyway.

I like my feet warm anyway, and it's not hot enough to be uncomfortable.

So to sum it up - my under bonnet now is very manageable, whereas before my LPG computer would shut down due to overheating.

Not bad for a $30 mod...

Hope that helps!
Nick

Could always just get your exhaust ceramic coated or whatever they call it. That will cut down the amount of heat in the engine bay a lot.

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u246 ... C01244.jpg

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u246 ... C01243.jpg

I made one up with a hand from a mate that got the ally bent up and then I bolted some of the acl heat race series heat shield under that (you can see it protuding out behind the main shield. Did a bit of cutting here and there and it came up looking really good/professional I reckon. It bolted to existing holes in the head

I don't have any temp specs of before and after though.

good luck