Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have been reading on lux diffs and I have some things I want to figure out about them.

I have a Bundy front doing nothing with a 4.5 & airlocker.
The ute Im building has 4.8 open front and welded rear.
I want to end up with F&R airlockers and might go back to 4.5's if need be.

SO

HI PINON
Will the Bundy Hipinon front 4.5 with airlocker fit in the front of my Lux Diff although my lux diff is from about ealry 80's. (no locking hubs version)

HUBS
My Front lux diff has the old hubs on it with no Hub Locking mechanisum, Can I put my Bundy locking hubs in there??

REAR AIRLOCKERS
Can I use any about pre 90's rear diff 4.5/4.8 and airlocker to go into my rear diff? It has a welded right know and they wont give a RWC until its open.

REAR DIFF
IS there such thing as a Rear HIPinon?
What year did rear LSD start? 88 from what ive found??

Thanks

If you are taling about HI Lux and 4.5 ( 1FZ-FE ) engines in 80 series cruisers .. take this answers.

1. the front HP it's reverse cut 8" it will fit but reverse cut ( also called reverse rotarion ) not gotta function in your 8" front diff that come factory low pin and normal cut.

2. the rear 3rd member of your Lux it's a 8" also and all Cruisers ( diesel or gas .. 4.0 and 4.5 ) are 9.5" those 3rd members will no fit.

3. Locking hubs .. if gotta funtion I'm not clear in the bierfield clearance at hub but are the same bolth pathern.

trash my answers if I'm coonfused with your terms ..

cheers

Just go and get a complete 90 something model front dif and bolt it under the front end. A complete front diff will only set you back acouple of hundred and then you get, Bigger vented brakes, free wheeling hubs and a stronger front housing that is less prone to bending. The high pinion out of the front of your bundy WILL bolt straight into this housing. Then just buy a 4.5 ring and pinion gear set and have it put together in the centre that was in this new front diff and bolt it straight into your current rear housing.

A complete front diff will cost you about $300
A 4.5 ring and pinion will cost about $400
Cost of setting up 4.5's in centre with new bearings would be about $200 max
So for $900 max you will have fixed a heep of problems you currently have with such early model hilux diffs.

Or look here, front and rear for $400, but you`d have to check what year they are to make shore you get the vented brakes. http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... p?t=119607

What has to done to fit a high pinioncentre to the hilux front?
I always thought the centre bolted straight in

Matt

Yeah it does, BUT. He has early 79 or 80 model diffs and these only have solid front rotors, doesn`t have free wheeling hubs and I think if its the really early ones like 79 (don`t hold me to this) but the CV`s are smaller or is that only in 40 series. Then there is the fact that its an unbraced housing and these are prone to bending.

So if he was to upgrade to late model front diff he fixes a few problems in one go.

hijack.

do 60 series rotors and calipers fit an 84 (full brace) diff? and how do people keep the handbrake when using discs rear?

Yeah good idea guts with the housing.
Bigger brakes and vented rotrs would be a good upgrade.
The cv's are the same size.

Matt

chunderlicious wrote:hijack.

do 60 series rotors and calipers fit an 84 (full brace) diff? and how do people keep the handbrake when using discs rear?

Use calipers that have a handbrake mechanism built in, or use a transfer mounted disc brake....

Guts

Just the info I wanna here!

BUT

Front
The Front diff is already Welded and Bolted in the Front of a Suzuki as a Coil Conversion but I will look into swaping into a 90's for the Brakes and stronger axel,cvs,hubs,etc.

Rear
Is the old ones OK or are they in the same boat being weaker and cant swap Diff centers over??

Other wise looks like the ones I have will have very few options with changeing etc. cant change much over hey! Bugger! This is gunna be a bigger job than I was hoping!

Everything off a 90 something model housing WILL bolt on to the older housing. Only thing you'd miss on is the extra bracing that the newer housings have. This isn't that big a deal as I still bend the newer ones easy If the one you have in isn't allready braced then just get it braced and bolt all the newer brakes etc on to it.

I'd still buy complete diff as it will be cheaper then buying it all seperately

So the deal is!

1/ Reinfoce my Front Housing Before I bend it!

2/ Buy a 90's plus complete front diff & use the Brakes/Hubs on my housing and use the front diff for the rear I already have that is welded.
(I will also Have a Spare Housing to use when I bend the other one!)

3/ Then put my Bundy Front Diff hi Pinon in the Front of this Housing.

Do All Rear Air Lockers Interchange?

I also wanna convert the rear to disk!!!!!!!!!

Can I do this on the old lux ones I have, with the Conversion that most talk about on the Outers Tojo threads??

Just to clarify .. it's a HP 3rd member good idea to run in rear housing ?

Thanks All

Looks like there is plenty of options.

cya

Tapage wrote:Just to clarify .. it's a HP 3rd member good idea to run in rear housing ?

No not really as then you'd be running on the back side of the teeth and would be weaker. In thery I guess it would only be the same as a standard low pinion in the front. But the big differance is you are driving on the rear all the time.

Tapage wrote:Just to clarify .. it's a HP 3rd member good idea to run in rear housing ?

NO,NO,NO.

Listen to GUTS.

The HP is very strong in the direction it was designed for.
A HP in the front is actually stronger than a LP in the front driving forward.
Put a HP in reverse and look out.
That's why a std LP pinion is a good compramise for forward and reverse situations.

Cheers
Dazza

I never broke a HP or LP anycase .. but ear plenty of tales, people breaking HP forwars .. ( course big tires, lockers etc etc etc .. )