Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
I now have 3 ROCKY's!! (now my engine swap thread)
Moderator: Tiny
I now have 3 ROCKY's!! (now my engine swap thread)
Just picked up one of the two Rocky's I bought for parts, both 1987 TD's The plan is to fix one of the engines up, then transplant it into mine. Then flog as many of the remaining parts as possible.
Got a few questions, do the 87 models have LSD rear? I should have checked while I was there but couldn't find a jack .
Will a 87 model engine bolt up to a 84's gearbox? These ones have the vacuum operated 4H button, and I don't wanna stuff around installing all that into mine.
And if anyone needs a spare gearbox, diff, panels, tailshafts, axle's, etc etc etc (or a TD engine, no compression tho with 730 000ks !!), PM me Will be posting F/S's once I get organized with what I want/don't want.
Pretty stoked atm, I can weld the front diff and have 2sets of spare drivelines
Last edited by RockyF75 on Fri Nov 09, 2007 8:48 pm, edited 2 times in total.
60 + Turbo, 33"s :armsup:
Thats not spare parts. Wait till you get a LWB chokkas, front to back, and another side of the house full of panels, and thats after you have ditched a heap of old panels, and you still have a rolling chassis, and the remains of another rolling chassis in the front yard, then you can say you have a spare or two. And yes, the gearbox will bolt up.
Mud makes excellent toothpaste.
Sweeet.BundyRumandCoke wrote:And yes, the gearbox will bolt up.
I was 90% sure, just needed to hear it from someone else
So now we know how you got them 2 detroits, bought every rocky you could get your hands on and got lucky eventually
There is still one more 80% complete car I haven't got any pics of yet. Going to be a PITA to move cause its diffs are mostly in pieces.
60 + Turbo, 33"s :armsup:
Engines out. So far, it needs:
Water pump
Timing belt
Timing Belt cover
Thermostat Housing
Harmonic Balancer
and a general cleanup
and the timing belt tensioner, AND the fan
Going to be a bit more of a pita than 1st thought. About 1/2 of these items I should be able to pull of the other rocky, but the thermostat housing is missing on both, and I'd probly wanna get a new water pump anyway, rather than put an old possibly worn one in and change it later.
60 + Turbo, 33"s :armsup:
You can get one on good old Ebay for $125.
Just do a search on Daihatsu Rocky.
Stu
Presently with Rocky motor and gearbox removed from vehicle and sitting in the middle of the garage floor. New clutch, HD pressure plate, timing belt, tensioner, front oil seal being replaced when the parts arrive early this week.
Just do a search on Daihatsu Rocky.
Stu
Presently with Rocky motor and gearbox removed from vehicle and sitting in the middle of the garage floor. New clutch, HD pressure plate, timing belt, tensioner, front oil seal being replaced when the parts arrive early this week.
Degreased and cleaned the engine today, all shiny
Never had a shiny engine before, and I still have some work to do if I want it perfect, bit of grease still around the turbo and oil cooler. Also examined the clutch and plate, and it looks like I'll be needing a new kit, plates worn and the springs in the clutch are a bit shot.
Never had a shiny engine before, and I still have some work to do if I want it perfect, bit of grease still around the turbo and oil cooler. Also examined the clutch and plate, and it looks like I'll be needing a new kit, plates worn and the springs in the clutch are a bit shot.
60 + Turbo, 33"s :armsup:
Then I'll be using one of my other old onesHotFourOk wrote:You want my old clutch
You're gonna hate the prices mate
RPM standard replacement clutch RRP $663. (Repco)
Exedy HD Sports Tuff RRP $620.... trade price $443
I take it those prices are for the whole kit not just the clutch?
There were some on ebay a while ago for $350ish, but gone now
60 + Turbo, 33"s :armsup:
Well, I've now officially got a sponsor
And as such, my clutch and timing kits arrived today at cost price
So if you need any parts, whether it be 4x4 or 2x4, go to http://www.ripperdeals.com/
Websites still getting built but just email him and he can get you a quote on pretty much anything automotive. Parts, tools, accessories. All at very competitive prices, and I can vouch first hand he will go out of his way to help. Plus he's already had at least one experience dealing with Daihatsu's
So this Saturday the old engine will start to be removed, and I'll fit the clutch and timing kit to the new one. Just wondering if its worth doing the rear main seal whilst the engines out?
BTW, if anyone's interested the Clutch is worth $310 plus freight, and timing kit $225 plus freight. I rang ripco for an idea on timing kit and they said $185 just for the belt no roller or tensioner
And as such, my clutch and timing kits arrived today at cost price
So if you need any parts, whether it be 4x4 or 2x4, go to http://www.ripperdeals.com/
Websites still getting built but just email him and he can get you a quote on pretty much anything automotive. Parts, tools, accessories. All at very competitive prices, and I can vouch first hand he will go out of his way to help. Plus he's already had at least one experience dealing with Daihatsu's
So this Saturday the old engine will start to be removed, and I'll fit the clutch and timing kit to the new one. Just wondering if its worth doing the rear main seal whilst the engines out?
BTW, if anyone's interested the Clutch is worth $310 plus freight, and timing kit $225 plus freight. I rang ripco for an idea on timing kit and they said $185 just for the belt no roller or tensioner
60 + Turbo, 33"s :armsup:
The whole car or just an engine?BPB02 wrote:hi i am was just wondering how big the diesel engines are in the rockys, i have just started looking at buying one,and this thread seems like a good place to ask. and how hard are they to find in decent condition?
Their a 2.8. Not huge but pretty tall.
60 + Turbo, 33"s :armsup:
I had some funny pics taken of me standing in the empty engine bay doing a Fred Flinstone, but the camera stuffed up so this is the only one I got
Anyway, she's in, its mated up to the bellhousing just nicely and the drive shaft. Just need to bolt on the bits and pieces and plumb it all up... and it all needs to be done by next week so I can drive down to sydney
Now can anyone with a TD tell me what the 2 Hoses comming out of the top of the turbo are for? One goes to the fuel compensator so I figure I need that, but there's also another hose out of the fuel compensator, going to a small part mounted on the body with 2 electrical wires on it? What does that do? I really dont want to have to wire it up electrically.
Also, there is another one (electrical component) next to it, that has a hose to the top of the turbo, and another to the vacume pump. I'm lead to believe that its a limter of some sort for boost in 1st gear? While some one else has said it might be something that controls the wastegate and how much boost you run I dont wanna blow this engine up by running too much boost so what do I do. And if I where to want to hook up a boost guage, where/how do I do it? Mate with an older TD says his is attached to this bit at the top of the turbo that I'm talking about
60 + Turbo, 33"s :armsup:
If you got the service manual go to page EM-74.
The pipe goes to the VSV valve to limit the boost in 1st gear.
Mine is a factory turbo setup and the pipework seems slightly different to yours.
My boost gauge is connected with a t piece in the By-pass valve line, which is that round thing up next to the turbo. I can't see one in your engine pictures.
I must figure out how to insert images one day.
Stu
The pipe goes to the VSV valve to limit the boost in 1st gear.
Mine is a factory turbo setup and the pipework seems slightly different to yours.
My boost gauge is connected with a t piece in the By-pass valve line, which is that round thing up next to the turbo. I can't see one in your engine pictures.
I must figure out how to insert images one day.
Stu
Both motors are factory turbo setups.Big-Stu wrote:If you got the service manual go to page EM-74.
The pipe goes to the VSV valve to limit the boost in 1st gear.
Mine is a factory turbo setup and the pipework seems slightly different to yours.
My boost gauge is connected with a t piece in the By-pass valve line, which is that round thing up next to the turbo. I can't see one in your engine pictures.
I must figure out how to insert images one day.
Stu
Nathan has a DL-51, and by the sounds of it you have a DL-52 like me.
The VSV limits the fuel delivery, not boost as such. But either way, power is dramtically decreased.
If you are still using it, I recommend you try it without the VSV.
[quote="RockyF70 - Coming out of the closet"]i'd be rushing out and buying an IFS rocky[/quote]
I second that. BIG difference without it.HotFourOk wrote: Both motors are factory turbo setups.
Nathan has a DL-51, and by the sounds of it you have a DL-52 like me.
The VSV limits the fuel delivery, not boost as such. But either way, power is dramtically decreased.
If you are still using it, I recommend you try it without the VSV.
Not sure why daihatsu even bothered putting it on. Emissions or something maybe.
Cheers.
If it doesn't have two sticks, I don't wana know about it!
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 18 guests