Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi. has anyone successfully put a Cleveland V8 into a gq? Has it passed through engineering? How did you get past clearance problems with the oil pump on the front axle, and the starter motor on the front drive shaft? The only way I can see around it is with a lift kit, but the engineer in my area wont sign off on it if its lifted from standard height.

change you front diff pinnion angle by putting in castor plates this will move front shaft away from starter,what sump are you using i am using a sump for a cortina ,in adition whith bump stop spacer on r/h side this works well hope this helps,ive found putting a clevo in a gq very tight fit but they have heaps of low down grunt which i find great in of roading

Clevo...sounds awesome. Would love to put a 5.8 in my Mav one day.

Did you use the original gearbox. Auto or manual.

What adapter kit did you use?

I guy in the Vic All Terrain club has one, aftermarket (using delco 808 VN-VP ecu and VP loom) EFI Clevo. I think engineering on petrol woild be difficult in that the Clevo never passed any unleaded emission standard as it was dropped about '84 in the XE, you'll probably have to put it on LPG or go through emissions testing, speak to an engineer though.

Joel

Helped a friend put one in, all went pretty smooth.
Straight LPG with gas research gear, passed ACT engineering and registration no problems.
Used bronco sump and made up oil pickup, dipstick tube and splash tray to suit. Mounted engine slightly off centre to help with clearances underneath, it all fits at full compression with no bumpstop extensions. Exhaust it very tight past LH rail, but fits in there OK. Crankshaft centreline finished up lower than the TD42 that came out.
Had to flatten out the firewall a bit for rocker cover clearance, but this engine had big mother covers for a full roller top end, standard valve covers may fit?
Used TD42 radiator and made up a custom aluminium shroud to suit the Ford engine driven fan.
Dellow adapter onto the Nissan 5-speed. The adapter is very good quality but Dellows knowledge about which clutch components to use leaves a lot to be desired.
Ford steering pump, alternator and air con pump all fit. The steering pump bracket needs to be modified to rotate the pump up a bit higher to clear the chassis rail.

Did you use the original gearbox. Auto or manual.

What adapter kit did you use?

I used the original nissan 4sp auto, but have replaced the valve body, had a custom low stall converter built which bolts up to the cleveland, and fitted a converter lock and a temp guage to it. The adapter kit came from dellow, and was the first one of its type they made. The only problems i had with it, the holes for the block locater pins for the block were too small, and had to drilled out, and if i ever do another one, i will get the bell housing made 1"-2" longer. It will make the bolts a lot easier to get in, and the left hand head wont clash with the firewall, althrough it may make the sump a bit harder. Dellow also supplied the engine mounts, which foul with standard exhaust manifolds (good thing i want headers) and look a bit..flimsy. But i will hold judgement on them untill i get it running.

but they have heaps of low down grunt

Well, its a blue-printed bored out 351 long rod, and I spent 14 x 8hr days on a diegrinder on the heads, crank and rods. Aiming for 350hp and 600NM, with power from 1200rpm up to around 5000. On gas.

you'll probably have to put it on LPG or go through emissions testing, speak to an engineer though.

As my Mav is pre-efi, and a 1990 model, it was put through the ADR's as a commersial vehicle, and has basically no pollution gear as standard. The engineer wants it duel fuel as a minimum, but doesnt care weather i run it mainly on gas or petrol, as long as it will sort of run on LPG. But i built for gas.

Now another silly question. whats a castor plate?

I have a 1990 Carby Mav and in NSW when I approached the engineer about the Clevo I was told a bit fat no to any petrol due to emissions.
I tried 2 different engineers and got the smae answer. Kinda piss me off a bit seeing as though I already had the clevo sitting here.
Now have an EFI Windsor from a 93 fairlane and am starting on it tomorrow.

NightmareBlade wrote:Now another silly question. whats a castor plate?

Castor Plates bolt onto your front control arms and rotate the diff angle so that your steering geometry is how it would be using standard height suspension.

Ric, go the turbo TB42... oodles easier.

I looked at one thats for sale on the weekend. 89 GQ LWB 351 Clevo
Its fully engineered with a 3" lift.
Had to be straight gas to pass emissions
Extractors had to be custom made ($$$) sounds hawt.
Custom sump
Firewall had to be "massaged"
Adaptor kit of course

Seller wants 7200 ono for it. Would cost about that to convert it!

I have the F 150 302 W and had to solid mount the pasengers as the rubber mounts were just tearing apart and on my last outing I snapped the head of a high tensile bolt that bolts the engine mount to the engine.

I have an idea of how to fix it but are any of you guys having the same problem and what have you done. Was told not to chain it as that will cause other problems.

LudaCris

After my 302 is engineered I am going top look at leaving the rubber insulator in but put a high tensile bolt and Nyloc right thru it. Will leave a couple of threads off fully locked up to allow for some movement.

The bolt idea is the preffered method if you can do it, i bought some HARDCORE engine mounts for my vortec 350 in my GQ from MARKS 4WD and they are unbreakable due to there design but are very rough on the dampening, they dont hold back resonantion much.They are ok for comp stuff but for daily's not much chop.

Maybe give them a call and see if they can help.

MAtt

mattsluxtruck wrote:After my 302 is engineered I am going top look at leaving the rubber insulator in but put a high tensile bolt and Nyloc right thru it. Will leave a couple of threads off fully locked up to allow for some movement.

Thats what I done and it works a treat except it sent the problem to the next weak point. Like I said I have I plan of attack to solve the problem.

LudaCris

Id rather perservere with the v8 if i can do it, althrough with a change of cam it would make a pretty hot car motor, so the money hasnt been wasted. Im leaving the dellow mounts on fotr the moment, but if they dont last, ill get a front crossmember of a XD, XE falcon and see if i can modify it to fit the GQ rails.

Definately go ahead with the v8 conversion. The windsor I have has been bored, forged pistons, Nascar rings, balanced and a custom cam and it is a rocket. Heads are standard for reliability but there is plenty more to extract out of some good head work. Hence the engine mount failures.

Front cross member out of a XD-E is a great idea.

LudaCris

NightmareBlade, who is your engineer?

I would like to see if it is do-able with my EFI 4.2 '92

If you look on the vicroads website and search for 'vass', it will spit out a list of all accredited engineers in victoria. Mine is the one in Mirboo Nth. He seems fairly reasonable. Havent got his details on me atm.

I bought a GQ with 302 clevo that grenaded b4 I got it home.

Its now a 351 with 224 @ 0.50 thou COMP cam, Y/Terra r/ rockers, stainless valves, RPM Air Gap manifold, extractors and machining all under $3 k.
Still have to port the heads and assemble.
The engine mounts are Delos- and were collapsed/ torn, I'm going to source F100 mounts these apparently have the bolt through them standard and look to be better designed to handle torque. Will require more fabbing at chassis rails.
The sump is High Energy looks pretty big.

The worst part about it would be the tight exhaust clearance.

If you run straight LPG I can't see issue with engineer.

do you reckon a set of block hugging headers, say pacemakers for an XD Auto would work?

Had the same set up in my Gq...Exhaust was a BIG issue even over the chassis type headers it kept melting clutch lines ..... even wrapped in heat wrap...

Luckily, mines an auto, so clutch lines arnt an issue. Unfortunatly, the brake and fuel lines will be pretty close, as are most of the electrics. Am thinking of putting a lined heat shield on the rhs fender and covering everything.

NightmareBlade wrote:Luckily, mines an auto, so clutch lines arnt an issue. Unfortunatly, the brake and fuel lines will be pretty close, as are most of the electrics. Am thinking of putting a lined heat shield on the rhs fender and covering everything.

With the engine out I stripped out all the fuel lines (straight gas) and am redoing part of the wiring harness. I bought a set of headers from clevo MQ that I hope will fit the GQ. The clutch line has me worried.