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intercooler pipe work

Posted: Sun Sep 09, 2007 9:59 pm
by chips59
is it ok to use mild steel for pipe work on the intercooler (top mount) i want to make my own reducers and weld up my own bends.

Posted: Sun Sep 09, 2007 11:05 pm
by MUSS
no it will rust fro mthe inside from any moisture unless you powder coat it or paint it... hence why stainless or alloy is easy to use

Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 11:01 am
by lethal weapon
I used mild steel, and primed and painted it using the hi-temp stuff, seems to work ok.

Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 12:41 pm
by Ruffy
We used mild steel on the Little mule. So far so good. We've found that you get some oil misting in the intake anyway which prevents the rust.

Cheers Dan

Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 12:55 pm
by Gwagensteve
Ruffy wrote:We used mild steel on the Little mule. So far so good. We've found that you get some oil misting in the intake anyway which prevents the rust.

Cheers Dan
X2 - the inside of any intercooler piping I have seen has lays had a little oil film in it.

Steve.

Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 1:33 pm
by NutterGQ
mild steel is no prob at all, as above it oils up from natural running/PCV pipes etc

Posted: Mon Sep 10, 2007 7:51 pm
by chips59
thanks for replies,
cheers, shane.

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 8:22 am
by me3@neuralfibre.com
Did mine years ago from mild steel exhaust pipe. Oil film from turbo stops rust.
Flare the ends slightly, otherwise pipes slip off at high boost, bugger in a drag having to pull over and refit :)
If you have the cash, HPC coatings significantly drop the intake temps from heat soak under teh engine bay. Made a big difference to mine, but was a small tight turbo petrol.

Paul

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 11:52 am
by NutterGQ
lol don't flare em that makes it a bastard, put 5 or 6 spot welds around all the ends so it bites into the silicone, also instead of standard clamps use T clamps, my standard ones where only a temp solution until the Heavy duty's came in now its all 100%.

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 6:36 pm
by me3@neuralfibre.com
NutterGQ wrote:lol don't flare em that makes it a bastard, put 5 or 6 spot welds around all the ends so it bites into the silicone, also instead of standard clamps use T clamps, my standard ones where only a temp solution until the Heavy duty's came in now its all 100%.
HPC + oil film is slippy slippy. I don't know if the weld lumps would be enough. My crappy welding would be though, it's lumpy :)

Paul

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 6:52 pm
by Jaffa
If you use mild steel and are worried about rusting get them galvanised, thats what I did a few years ago when I made my own pipinga few years ago, cost about $50 just had to wait about a week when they through it in the baths with some other smaller stuff.

Posted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 6:59 pm
by chips59
i planed to get them anodized.

Posted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 10:34 am
by lethal weapon
Instead of spot welding them, i just put a series of prick punches from the inside out on each end, was told to do this by a guy who custom builds I/C's for drags.