Outer Limits 4x4 Board

ok...

this is the first time I've EVER had anything to do with auto's so be nice

I'm using a VR throttle body for my gas setup, and I'm assuming the kick down cable work's by being pulled? can anyone tell me how far approx it needs to travel or the rough amount of tension it needs or is it a suck it up and see situation?

Anything at all I need to know about it before I start playing around?

has anyone got a link for some literature on how the auto in these things essentially work's so I can understand a lil more, I couldnt find much in my short search

Simon

hey mate which auto is it? I put a custom throttle body on my 89 classic rangie and was to lazy to hook it up so I just shift through the auto manual styles.

it's a zf

subaman wrote:hey mate which auto is it? I put a custom throttle body on my 89 classic rangie and was to lazy to hook it up so I just shift through the auto manual styles.

Very stoopid thing to do, as the cable governs line pressure and your gonna fark your auto sooner or later

Shakes, you have to travel the cable from nil to full pull, matching the stroke of the butterfly. best to measure a standard setup and go from there

cloughy wrote:

subaman wrote:hey mate which auto is it? I put a custom throttle body on my 89 classic rangie and was to lazy to hook it up so I just shift through the auto manual styles.

Very stoopid thing to do, as the cable governs line pressure and your gonna fark your auto sooner or later

Shakes, you have to travel the cable from nil to full pull, matching the stroke of the butterfly. best to measure a standard setup and go from there

Anyone have this info on hand for me?

or are you saying when the butterfly is fully open the kickdown cable should be at it's max stretch? from the sound's of things this is something I should get close and then give to the experts?

Its just a cable, why would you need to give it to the experts

What's on there now??

shakes wrote:

cloughy wrote:

subaman wrote:hey mate which auto is it? I put a custom throttle body on my 89 classic rangie and was to lazy to hook it up so I just shift through the auto manual styles.

Very stoopid thing to do, as the cable governs line pressure and your gonna fark your auto sooner or later

Shakes, you have to travel the cable from nil to full pull, matching the stroke of the butterfly. best to measure a standard setup and go from there

Anyone have this info on hand for me?

or are you saying when the butterfly is fully open the kickdown cable should be at it's max stretch? from the sound's of things this is something I should get close and then give to the experts?

thats about it

cloughy wrote:Its just a cable, why would you need to give it to the experts

What's on there now??

so I dont fawk with the line pressure, and cost myself a box

It had the dogiest holley gas setup you've probably laid eye's on was never running as good as it could.

sorry for all the stupid q's the manual I've got doesnt have sweet FA on setting up the kickdown and I know squat about it.

the cable needs .25mm to 1.25mm of clearance between the crimp on the end of the cable and the end of the outer sheath. If you set this and then fully extend the cable it should tell you the distance you need.

all sussed

need to find a longer acerator cable mine doesn't quite reach anyone got one floating around?

Remember that the total travel of the cable has a detent about 10-15mm from full extension,which is kickdown.
Its easy to think total travel is just to the detent.
Its many hours of fun designing and cutting the lever for the kickdown cable.
The length of the arm should be around 35mm from fulcrum to hole for the cable, but basically you have to trial and error it.
The lever has to be an "L" shape, so that the cable end misses the lever at full noise.
You then have to work out a mount for the outer.
I spent more time on this I think than on anything else when I put a "Thor" manifold on my 3.9.
So it will cost a fortune to pay someone for say 4-6 hours of stuffing around and basically you would be paying for their education.
Regards Philip A

Philip A wrote:Remember that the total travel of the cable has a detent about 10-15mm from full extension,which is kickdown.
Its easy to think total travel is just to the detent.
Its many hours of fun designing and cutting the lever for the kickdown cable.
The length of the arm should be around 35mm from fulcrum to hole for the cable, but basically you have to trial and error it.
The lever has to be an "L" shape, so that the cable end misses the lever at full noise.
You then have to work out a mount for the outer.
I spent more time on this I think than on anything else when I put a "Thor" manifold on my 3.9.
So it will cost a fortune to pay someone for say 4-6 hours of stuffing around and basically you would be paying for their education.
Regards Philip A

yea ta.

I've essentially used the cable pull "guide" for lack of a better work off another throttle body as both the cable stop and to get leverage so as the indent is around 3/4 throttle and the max stop is at full throttle, will probably gunk up at the first deep bog hole....the actual intake throttle body is around 35mm as you said.

...all worked properly roughly jigged up, will see when it comes to driving it.

Hi Cloughy,

You said:
Very stoopid thing to do, as the cable governs line pressure and your gonna fark your auto sooner or later

Would this apply to a C9 also? The guy who built mine said that a kickdown link was not really necessary, so I didn't make one up.

Have 20k kms on it now with no probs.

TIA, DL

No, I run mine without the kickdown aswell, vacuum controls line pressure on those, whereas Torqueflyte and ZF's only have the cable input