Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have been speaking to the local 4wd centre about putting a 4 inch lift in my SWB. They have mentioned that bad tailshaft vibration can occur when you lift a SWB. I would appreciate any comments/suggestions/feedback on this subject.

I have done alot of reaserch on this subject, and most say that you cant do over a 3" lift on a SWB without tailshaft vibration. I have a 6.5 lift with no vibration, ONE trick is tailshaft angles. I have read books from Ford USA and GMH OZ, and both say the same, on a tailshaft both unis should be within 5 degrees of each other to stop vibration. Most people run one uni flat and the other with a shyt load of angle ( wrong).
Most car manufactors offset the motor ( not certral) so to throw the tailshaft on an angle to the diff pinion, giving the two unis an angle and 5 degrees of each other as on a road car the tailshaft has no horizontal angle. That is only one problem.

Also forgot to say, if you get a 4" lift on a SWB done properly, roll the pinion, drop the gearbox crossmember and lift the engine mounts to get a better tailshaft angle. ( Shyt, I just gave away some of my old secrets).
O well dont use it any more. :wink: 8)

Wheres Ptrool, hes the techno man on this one!!!!

Less lift, less flex and no comps.

thanks Chezzy ill see how it goes

Cheezy4x4 wrote:Less lift, less flex and no comps.

I just want his tires, seats and brush guards....

there is two trains of thought on the tailshaft thing. You can either do like cheezy said and run uni's at exact and opposing angles, so they cancel each other out. Or, run a cardin joint at the t/case end and run the pinion uni straight.. same end result. In theory, the two uni joint method should have slightly smoother power uptake because of the cardin joint "constant velocity in/sine wav velocity out" effect. But I doubt you would ever notice it in these trucks...

Cheezy4x4 wrote:I have done alot of reaserch on this subject, and most say that you cant do over a 3" lift on a SWB without tailshaft vibration. I have a 6.5 lift with no vibration, ONE trick is tailshaft angles. I have read books from Ford USA and GMH OZ, and both say the same, on a tailshaft both unis should be within 5 degrees of each other to stop vibration. Most people run one uni flat and the other with a shyt load of angle ( wrong).
Most car manufactors offset the motor ( not certral) so to throw the tailshaft on an angle to the diff pinion, giving the two unis an angle and 5 degrees of each other as on a road car the tailshaft has no horizontal angle. That is only one problem.

how much would it be to do this cheezy or anyone else? is there anything else compulsory for a 4" lift? like panhard rods?

I have got 4 inch lift in the shorty now, all ive done is dropped the gearbox cross member. I still have a little bit of vibration but its bearable the only other thing i did was get laminated trailing arms, a mate snaped his on a lwb and it made a hell of a mess.

how much was it to drop the gearbox cross member. and laminate the trailing arms. also what kind of tyres u running with the lift? Did you have to extend the brake lines, breather extentions, caster angles as it says on the big balls web site which is required. Also your not running the adjustable pan hard rods.

basically, i just wanna know everything that is needed that u did to install the 4" lift

what brand u running, do you thing they are good?

just something completely off the topic, but how do u put a thumbnail pic with your name on the left hand column

I put the kit in with a couple of mates , they are dobinson springs and rancho adjustable shocks. I had a 4wd shop put in 3 degrees castor bushes cost around $200. extended brake lines came with the kit but ive seen GQs with just brackets made up to lift the break line off the diff. it cost about $10 for longer bolts for the member drop, i got some spacers off a mate. Ihave 4inch sus and 2 inch body lift running 33s but i could run 35s. Hope this helps

Pete

You add the pic though you profile edit where it says upload aviator

bugger, when i bought the car it came with a road worthy and they put new ones on (caster bushes i think), but i dont know what degree thing. all i know is that they are red and stand out like dogs balls and were around 200.

also how much did the shocks and springs cost you?

take it to a 4wd shop they will tell you what degrees castor bushes they are, if its not lifted the are probably 0 degree. I picked up the lift kit for $700 second hand, but i woulnt buy second hand shocks again the back ones were shot. I think you can pick up springs for around $400 and i paid $200 each for the ranchos.

Good to see you worked out the aviator

www.bigballsoffroad.com.au

look at this page, they have the lift kits there with everythign.

I got Total4wd center in Epping to sort mine out with engineers certificate... Yes you will need one to be road legal.

yeah i have looked at that page heaps. also bogged, what is the specs of that red car u posted, not ptrool but the other one. what lift , tyres etc. i am undecided whether to go 2" to just fit 33" or got 4" to fit 33" with more height

hottiemonster wrote:yeah i have looked at that page heaps. also bogged, what is the specs of that red car u posted, not ptrool but the other one. what lift , tyres etc. i am undecided whether to go 2" to just fit 33" or got 4" to fit 33" with more height

which other one you talkin about??

If your only going 33's Id just go with a 3inch OME lift.. heaps of room, and fills the guards.

This is mine with 6in lift and 33's... it was supposed to be 4inch but wasnt... Who is arguing. I went with the big balls kit. Wouldnt mind going back to 4inch lift really.

hottiemonster wrote:yeah i have looked at that page heaps. also bogged, what is the specs of that red car u posted, not ptrool but the other one. what lift , tyres etc. i am undecided whether to go 2" to just fit 33" or got 4" to fit 33" with more height

they are both ptrool...... back when it was too tall and too slow!

bogged wrote:If your only going 33's Id just go with a 3inch OME lift.. heaps of room, and fills the guards.

3" springs from dobinsons, pedders or kings (all off the shelf) with 2" body lift is plenty enough to run 35's comfortably. Combine that with some good value OME shocks and you're done!

To run 33's, you only really need a 2".....

getdirty wrote:

bogged wrote:If your only going 33's Id just go with a 3inch OME lift.. heaps of room, and fills the guards.

3" springs from dobinsons, pedders or kings (all off the shelf) with 2" body lift is plenty enough to run 35's comfortably. Combine that with some good value OME shocks and you're done!

To run 33's, you only really need a 2".....

If you want to keep original flairs, go with 3inch.. mate found out 2inch aint enough...

say i got with 3" would i need casters adjusted and what else need to be done?

hottiemonster wrote:say i got with 3" would i need casters adjusted and what else need to be done?

Probably not, I had one and didnt bother..

4 shocks and 4 springs.
piss the sway bars off.

thats it.

is it a big job to piss the swaybars off

3" ok with swb?

swaybars, take out 12 bolts and they will fall off

the front, there are 2 swaybar mounts on the radius arms, thats 4 bolts, plus the 2 nuts that mount it to the chassis

the rear are 2 mounts on the diff, thats another 4 bolts, then there are the 2 nuts that mount em to the chassis,

theres ya 12 bolts.

hottiemonster wrote:3" ok with swb?

Trial and error.

Some shortys seem more affected than others.

Ive seen one with a 4inch lift fine, yet others with 3inch lift that have issues.

yeah

mine is petrol and has done 200 km

hottiemonster wrote:yeah

mine is petrol and has done 200 km

General rule is 1degree for 1inch of lift.

But you can usually get away with it... if not caster bushes arent that expensive.