Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Does anyone use a lockright in the rear of their Suzi Sierra. Does it work well? I am considering purchasing one and the cost of the unit compares well to welding the diff as I cant weld, bonus is ,I can remove it if I sell the vehicle.

Heya,

Well the word I’ve heard is they aren’t actually legal to drive around on the road neither is welding your diff but woopie

Zuker1500 has em in his zuk and they aren’t to bad but you've got to learn not to accelerate when going around corners correct me if I’m wrong peoples!

I am also looking at getting lock rights front and rear for my zuk. I find it a bit hard to justify $3200 just for Air lockers when my zuk cost less then that.

I’m thinking a set of lock rights are about $1500ish plus install i guess if your not handy enough.

Qten,

Have you looked at a Detroit EZ Locker from opposite lock? In 4WD Monthly Budget Story, they were priced at $650?

I had one in the rear of mine it was good in low range stuff but on road is a pain in the arse really jerky around tight corners. I got air locker now you cant beat them. It depends on how much on road driving you do. I would probably weld it up before id get another lock rite.

i've got the lockright in the back of mine. like others said, it can be a real pain on the road (though i'm used to it now), and especially trying to drive round a carpark. however, the difference it made offroad is well worth the extra hassle of driving on the road.

plus, when it unlocks sometimes with a bang, scares the sh*t out of pedestrians and people in the car who don't know it is there

Thankyou for the info, for $ 370 I think it would be hard to beat!

Weld it. You get the same results on road - i had a lockright in the rear of mine and as ant said when they do unlock you can get very loud bangs that are embarrassing. The only time i notice my weld up is in carparks and it screeches - and an auto will do the same.

camskizook wrote:Weld it. You get the same results on road - i had a lockright in the rear of mine and as ant said when they do unlock you can get very loud bangs that are embarrassing. The only time i notice my weld up is in carparks and it screeches - and an auto will do the same.

I get screeches in the carpark with no lockers

chrome will do that

grimbo wrote:chrome will do that

It's all about the polished billet

Jacka

$370??

Qten

I run rear lockrite in my zook. Havent had any problems. The noises are usual trademarks of self locking centres, however you soon become used to this and how to drive in certain conditions.
What will your truck see more of? Carparks or the loose stuff? Think about it.
Welded centres effectively are the same, however when they fail components are damaged beyond the state of re-use.
Also when done they need to be clean and free from burrs and slag etc,
Slag will destroy inner axle oil seals and in turn damage the machined surface at the end of the axle tubes, causing seal failure and therefore making the axle housing again useless. Not to mention other components.

qten wrote:Heya,

I am also looking at getting lock rights front and rear for my zuk. I find it a bit hard to justify $3200 just for Air lockers when my zuk cost less then that.

I’m thinking a set of lock rights are about $1500ish plus install i guess if your not handy enough.

Qten,

You should be able to pick up an air locker for around $1100, you can then run it off a air tank charged up from a $20 K-mart compressor, an old gas cylinder is perfect, out of a tank the size of a 1.25litre coke bottle charged up to 90psi I used to get about 10 activations, air is only used when it is turned off. A mate just had a 2 litre tank and borrowed air off others with compressors.

Lockrights are pigs in the front with manual steering, I had one in my Landrover, never again, too unpredictable, let no one else drive it if you do. A detroit in my mates manual steer patrol was much smoother in operation.

If it's $370, then it's either second hand or a dodgy copy. The genuine article is $699. A detroit ezi locker is a copy (to the piont of parts being interchangable) A proper detroit locker is totally different thing- it's a complete replacement centre, that is either off or totally locked with no differential action.

Liam wrote:If it's $370, then it's either second hand or a dodgy copy. The genuine article is $699. A detroit ezi locker is a copy (to the piont of parts being interchangable) A proper detroit locker is totally different thing- it's a complete replacement centre, that is either off or totally locked with no differential action.

I have one litre diffs, I believe a lock-rite or the cheap copy of, is my only choice? I have a welded rear, that I am very happy with. what do you suggest for the front diff (presently welded). my shoulders are weak, so need power steer and/or proper locker if they will help. any body elses opinions count, too. . didn't realise detroit ezi and detroit were not same thing. better learning this way, than hard way. christover

Check out spidertrax.com for the cheapest lockers. this is where i got mine from.

Jacka I gather your not from OZ then?



Qten,

I am from Melbourne

qten wrote:I am also looking at getting lock rights front and rear for my zuk. I find it a bit hard to justify $3200 just for Air lockers when my zuk cost less then that.

Put a new engine it it first qten... then the lockers will seem el-cheapo

greg nice point


Hey jacka,

Isnt that site USA Based so your price of $370 wouldn't be including our dollar + Tax?

Just asking cause it seems cheap!


Qten,

just weld that sucker qten

If you are concerned about handling with the welded rear - find someone with air lockers and get them to take you for a drive on the road with it off, then on - you will be able to see the difference...

I've left mine on accidently before and hardly noticed it at all - it's apparently only when trying to do slow parking work that the rear diff starts chirping - so it's all good

If you can't find anyone in townsville come down to melbourne and i'll take for a drive in my car.

cheers

that price is Aus and delivered to me in Melb.

I have lock rites front and rear and the rear was causing a bit of a problem but we removed it and re shimmed it and its heaps better.

You just have to be careful that you get them installed correctly from the beginning or it will create issues.

I used to have welded front and rear and the worst thing was it used to wear out rear tyres quite quickly as everytime you turn its just burning rubber. Also, when the weld lets go you have to throw the centre away and get another.

Having the front welded is ok but its a bit hard on the steering but you can get used to it.

If i had the money i would have twin air lockers or at least air locker rear.

qten wrote:Heya,

Well the word I’ve heard is they aren’t actually legal to drive around on the road neither is welding your diff but woopie

Zuker1500 has em in his zuk and they aren’t to bad but you've got to learn not to accelerate when going around corners correct me if I’m wrong peoples!

I am also looking at getting lock rights front and rear for my zuk. I find it a bit hard to justify $3200 just for Air lockers when my zuk cost less then that.

I’m thinking a set of lock rights are about $1500ish plus install i guess if your not handy enough.

Qten,

trust me i've had both and even if you can't afford the air lockers then rob ya grannie for the rest cos the worth there weight in gold !!!! and you'll thank yourself in the longrun when your drivetrain's more reliable and a pleasure to drive on and off the dirt ( and also they make the cool ppssstt sound that everybody likes )

zuker1500 wrote:If i had the money i would have twin air lockers or at least air locker rear.

I went with Lockright front and Air Locker rear and am pretty happy with that... used my existing on board compressor, fire extinguisher as res tank. Overall ended up a reasonable budget solution..

mike wrote:

zuker1500 wrote:If i had the money i would have twin air lockers or at least air locker rear.

I went with Lockright front and Air Locker rear and am pretty happy with that... used my existing on board compressor, fire extinguisher as res tank. Overall ended up a reasonable budget solution..

thats what im runnin now too but i wanna save up for an air locker front as well so my c.v.'s last longer and so my girfrend can steer it with 8psi in the bush too

I would have thought logically a air locker in the front would make more sense then in the rear if you could afford only one air locker. And having a lock rite etc in the rear

As in 4wd mode your steering is hopeless so to speak so you'd want to be able to steer in tight spots and sometimes trying to get the transfer out of 4LO is a little harder then slapping the locker out?

Just a thought..

qten wrote:I would have thought logically a air locker in the front would make more sense then in the rear if you could afford only one air locker. And having a lock rite etc in the rear

As in 4wd mode your steering is hopeless so to speak so you'd want to be able to steer in tight spots and sometimes trying to get the transfer out of 4LO is a little harder then slapping the locker out?

Just a thought..

i think the idea behind it is that when you are on-road you have your hubs unlocked so the front locker does nothing... this means that on-road driving is completely unaffected, but offroad you still have to option of twin lockers... however - i agree qten - having the air locker in the front seems more superior.

greg wrote:i think the idea behind it is that when you are on-road you have your hubs unlocked so the front locker does nothing... this means that on-road driving is completely unaffected, but offroad you still have to option of twin lockers... however - i agree qten - having the air locker in the front seems more superior.

Yup that's the idea (for me at least) I have heard some horror stories of auto-locked/CIG rears in zooks, particularly in the wet on the black stuff.
superior? no....
easier? sure

Hmm Yeah last night was a bit interesting with the lock rites in zuker1500's zuk.

I’m thinking the ARB's are the way to go and just put off the 1600 conversion for a while longer.

Qten,