Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I am am having a few brake isssues after my vehicle has been sitting for about 2 months


When i apply the brakes i get a soft peddle, on the second pump it is a little firmer, but eventually the auto will out drive the brakes.

I have checked all conections an there are no leaks
The resivour level has not changed
I have bleed the entire sysyem and found no air
I have removed the master cylinder and there is no fluid leaking from the back.

Am i missing something

got the exact some prob in my cj7 and after months of scratch around i still can't find the prob when you fix it let me know what it is cause i've replaced lines,pads,reservwar,and had booster redone i got some back but i'm upto pumping twice then the brakes are there

Got drums? It took me years to figure out I needed to keep the handbrake adjusted up...

Moisture may have been absorbed into your lines over the times the vehicle was sitting? Because you are in Brisbane which can have high humidity then this could be the answer.


...possibly time to rpleace your brake fluid.


".......To remove any moisture contamination that might have entered the system. Brake fluid needs to be replaced periodically, because brake fluid will absorb moisture over a period of time. This can occur with a vehicle that has been driven 60,000 miles a year, and it can occur on a vehicle that has been sitting in a garage for a year. Fluid contamination is
a function of time and humidity, and has nothing to do with the mileage driven. Moisture can enter the system through seals and through microscopic pores in the hoses. It should be noted that moisture can enter the system every time the fluid reservoir is opened, which is a good reason not to open it unnecessarily."

RoadNazi wrote:Moisture may have been absorbed into your lines over the times the vehicle was sitting? Because you are in Brisbane which can have high humidity then this could be the answer.


...possibly time to rpleace your brake fluid.


".......To remove any moisture contamination that might have entered the system. Brake fluid needs to be replaced periodically, because brake fluid will absorb moisture over a period of time. This can occur with a vehicle that has been driven 60,000 miles a year, and it can occur on a vehicle that has been sitting in a garage for a year. Fluid contamination is
a function of time and humidity, and has nothing to do with the mileage driven. Moisture can enter the system through seals and through microscopic pores in the hoses. It should be noted that moisture can enter the system every time the fluid reservoir is opened, which is a good reason not to open it unnecessarily."

Thanks, It would be great if it was that simple
i replace all of the fluid this afternoon

-Scott- wrote:Got drums? It took me years to figure out I needed to keep the handbrake adjusted up...

disc all round, no handbrake

RoadNazi wrote:possibly time to rpleace your brake fluid.

If he's bleed the entire system it'll be new if it's getting pedal creep which it sounds alot like it'll be the Master Cyl the fluid is passing back past the seals
can replace just cups (seals) or get someone like bhss (will get number when at work toomorrow) to rebuild it and i'm 99% sure they stainless steel sleeve them as the alloy can wear to a slight oval and no amount of new seals will make this seal.

Sic Lux wrote:

RoadNazi wrote:possibly time to rpleace your brake fluid.

If he's bleed the entire system it'll be new if it's getting pedal creep which it sounds alot like it'll be the Master Cyl the fluid is passing back past the seals
can replace just cups (seals) or get someone like bhss (will get number when at work toomorrow) to rebuild it and i'm 99% sure they stainless steel sleeve them as the alloy can wear to a slight oval and no amount of new seals will make this seal.

That thought had crossed my mind

Fluid condition only realy affects boil point as it absorbs moisture Found Bhss Details

BHSS The Automotive Engineers

58 Abbotsford Rd Bowen Hills QLD 4006
ph: (07) 3216 1655

Thanks Sic Lux i will givethem a call on Monday

I found a damaged cap in the master cylinder

whats the best way to minimise brake squeel? my rears squeel during normal driving, not loud, just annoying. the also squeel badly when braking at low speed

ausoops wrote:whats the best way to minimise brake squeel? my rears squeel during normal driving, not loud, just annoying. the also squeel badly when braking at low speed

It's typically caused by the brake pads vibrating against their backing plates. I think some vehicles have special spring-loaded plates which are supposed to be fitted in between, but they often get lost/left out at a pad change - you could check to see if you're supposed to have something like that? I've heard you can buy a special grease designed to be smeared on the back of the pad.

Disc's
Can be as said above or glazed rotors pulling pads out and looking for a shinny rub mark it'll be moving in the caliper (CRC do a orange goo to stop this) if not i'd machine disc's if not close or under min thickness. Also could be the tell tails or wear indicators touching disc if this is the case time for new pads
Drums
is pull drums off and wash all brake dust off Don't blow it off as it's no good to breath in

ausoops wrote:whats the best way to minimise brake squeel? my rears squeel during normal driving, not loud, just annoying. the also squeel badly when braking at low speed

What sort of car is it

It's not the pad wear indicators is it

STIKA wrote:

ausoops wrote:whats the best way to minimise brake squeel? my rears squeel during normal driving, not loud, just annoying. the also squeel badly when braking at low speed

What sort of car is it

It's not the pad wear indicators is it

The stupid bloody wear indicators on Hilux pads make it sound like you have done a front wheel bearing.
Because they are sort of sping loaded metal the sound is there even without braking, a sort of grinding noise.

patrol.

i changed the rear pads and the rotors looked fine, the shim things i put back on the rear of the pads, where do you put this goo stuff? on the shims as well or between the shims and the pads?

ausyota wrote:sound is there even without braking, a sort of grinding noise.

Check and make sure the backing plates arent touching the disc. They are flexible and easily bent and will cause this squeal/grinding/ If so just bend them out a bit. Otherwise check for score marks on the disc that might indicate a little rock caught in the caliper.

ausoops wrote:patrol.

i changed the rear pads and the rotors looked fine, the shim things i put back on the rear of the pads, where do you put this goo stuff? on the shims as well or between the shims and the pads?

they can look fine but still make a noise. the "brake Quite" crc goo you put on the rear of the pad and either leave the in and put some of it on these between the surfaces and on the surface that touches the calliper or leave shims out and just goo the back of the pad just remember this will only make the noise go away if the pad has been moving in the calliper backing plate bent is easy one to do so check that first as it's inexpensve. Also what pads did you put in and how were they beded in