Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi

I have this problem with my -90 pajero wagon 3000 V6

the most of the time it,s starts and run's like a clock. but it dies ater i while. somtime after 10seconds, sometimes after 3-5 minutes and sometimes it don't dies at all. Then i have to wait from 10secondes up to 10 minutes before i can start i again. Does anyone know what is causing this problem??

Any flashing lights or error messages on the dash?

Mine did that once and my mechanic ,who used to work for MItsu suggested letting it idle for approx 10 minutes so as it coud re-set its own computor. Fixed the problem , before that it would try to stall constantly especially when I slowed down to take a corner .Try it may work for you?

PajeroSRV wrote:Any flashing lights or error messages on the dash?

No flashing lights. And the rpm-meter dies along with the engine.

But I'm gonna try to reseting the ECU.

Thnx

Mine's done this on a couple of occasions, the first time it was the ecu on the way out. It'd start and run fine, and just stop for no good reason sometimes, the one day it stayed stopped. A tow home and a couple of hundred peso's later I had a fresh wrecking yard ecu in it and it was away again. Last time it did it I thought it was the same thing again, but an ecu swap made no difference to it. I spent an hour or so cleaning every connection I could get at in the engine bay with battery terminal cleaner and a toothbrush and it hasn't missed a beat since, and that was on the Australia day long weekend.

My 1st thought was ECU.

They are common to fail - there is a company here in NZ that does exchange ones for $150 which would seem like a good deal.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 049380.htm

Funny you should bring this topic up, I'm having the same ShortyIQ problem. I keep mine going by locking the choke out so it idles at about 1000.

With mine, it runs fine from cold then if you stop it and restart the engine it will cough and splutter then stall.

And it's decided to blow aircon belts again and I have checked the tensioner pulley bearing and there's nothing wrong with it. So it's going to be an expensive fix.

Mechz, your could also be the idle stepper motor - also common fault. Leads to poor or non idle.

Why these fail is that are pretty delicate and the crankcase breather going into the intake just before it so it gets full of oil vapour from the crankcase leading to fouling.

Mechz wrote:Funny you should bring this topic up, I'm having the same ShortyIQ problem. I keep mine going by locking the choke out so it idles at about 1000.

With mine, it runs fine from cold then if you stop it and restart the engine it will cough and splutter then stall.

And it's decided to blow aircon belts again and I have checked the tensioner pulley bearing and there's nothing wrong with it. So it's going to be an expensive fix.

Yeah mechz, i'm with NJ on this one. Your problem sounds like the stepper motor. Give it a clean and clean the throttle body as well. If the problem still persists then replace the stepper motor.

With regards to the a/c belts breaking, it will be the a/c compressor seizing momentarrily which spits the belt. You can try having the gas removed and have the correct amount of PAG oil put into the compressor. This may fix the problem, if not you will need a new compressor. When i was an apprentice i discovered this problem and we could'nt work out why the belts kept breaking until we saw the comp lock up momentarily due to a lack of lubrication. It would pay to have an a/c person put their gauges on it as there may be a blockage somewhere causing an excess of pressure.

Hey NJV6..... Hows the leakage test going on your rig?

bertilson wrote:Hi

I have this problem with my -90 pajero wagon 3000 V6

the most of the time it,s starts and run's like a clock. but it dies ater i while. somtime after 10seconds, sometimes after 3-5 minutes and sometimes it don't dies at all. Then i have to wait from 10secondes up to 10 minutes before i can start i again. Does anyone know what is causing this problem??

Yeah i would say it's the ecu as well. What normally happens is the voltage regulator in the ecu drops out and throws out the 5volt reference to all the sensors. The easiest way to test this is with a multimeter.

While everything is working properly, turn the ignition on and remove the air flow meter plug. Test with a multimeter and you should have 1 pin with battery voltage and i think 2 or 3 pins with a 5 volt reference. (give or take a few millivolts). When the car stops and wont start re test the pins and if the 5 volt references are too high or low then you know the ecu is at fault. Normally they will read around 8-10 volts and this throws all the sensors out. So if you have a multimeter handy carry it around with you until it won't start then test the references. Hope this helps, Gabe.

Thanks for the heads up guys.

I let it idle for about 25 minutes this morning and it's doing ok at the moment.

I'll check that idle stepper motor next weekend after I splurge on a creeper and some ramps.


Thing is with the AC, I took it to a specialist and got it back last Saturday after they replaced the belt (with one more narrow because he thinks it wasn't seated properly) and updated the gas from R12 to R232 or whatever the new shit is and I thought he would have checked all that stuff.

I'll give him a call tomorrow morning because it cost me 360 bucks for pretty much nothing!

hudson44 wrote:

bertilson wrote:Hi

I have this problem with my -90 pajero wagon 3000 V6

the most of the time it,s starts and run's like a clock. but it dies ater i while. somtime after 10seconds, sometimes after 3-5 minutes and sometimes it don't dies at all. Then i have to wait from 10secondes up to 10 minutes before i can start i again. Does anyone know what is causing this problem??

Yeah i would say it's the ecu as well. What normally happens is the voltage regulator in the ecu drops out and throws out the 5volt reference to all the sensors. The easiest way to test this is with a multimeter.

While everything is working properly, turn the ignition on and remove the air flow meter plug. Test with a multimeter and you should have 1 pin with battery voltage and i think 2 or 3 pins with a 5 volt reference. (give or take a few millivolts). When the car stops and wont start re test the pins and if the 5 volt references are too high or low then you know the ecu is at fault. Normally they will read around 8-10 volts and this throws all the sensors out. So if you have a multimeter handy carry it around with you until it won't start then test the references. Hope this helps, Gabe.

Do you know witch pins tat have 5-volt refernes out from the ECU?? if it's only a voltage regulator that is broken it sems easy to fix.

I tried the do a bit of fault finding with help from a workshop manual from Crysler but the color of the cables and the pins in the ECU don't match.

anyone else that have circut diagram for the Pajero??

I cant quite remember, but from memory there should be at least 2 5v references and 1 12 volt signal with the AFM unplugged. Its normally the 5 volt ref's that will be out. If i remember tomorrow i will bring my multimeter home and test the voltages on mine and draw up a pic for you.

If you don't have any 5 volt ref's then the ecu will be cactus. You can get the voltage reg in the ecu replaced but i'm not sure if its just cheaper to buy a reco ECU.

Got a used ECU for 67,08 AUD today. Gonna replace it next time the engine stops and see if it's helping. If it helps I'm gonna demout the old ECU and see if i can raplace the ragulator.

mine did that and it turned out to be a hairline crack in the dizzy cap

I purchased a new ECU this Monday and decided to wait with the replacement until the engine stoped for me again. Today it stoped and after a few second it started again with the new ECU. And now It's work just fine.

Tank you all for the help with this problem.

Andmy Pajero feels good now. With new Cooper STT 35x12,5-15 and a 2" body lift.

We need pic's

NJV6 wrote:Mechz, your could also be the idle stepper motor - also common fault. Leads to poor or non idle.

Why these fail is that are pretty delicate and the crankcase breather going into the intake just before it so it gets full of oil vapour from the crankcase leading to fouling.

I tested the resistance of the ISM as per the service manual and one of the prongs reads 36ohms when the book says 28-33 is what it should be.

Is that too far out and should I replace it?

NJV6 wrote:We need pic's

I can qive you some pic's of my car.


This is the Pajero when i first got it.



35x12,5-15 with orignal height




2" body lift

and the price:

purchase of the car: 2500 sek
new ECU: 400sek
new rear door: 400sek
Wheels: trade against 2 Dana 44 axles. = 4000 sek
Body lift: 250 sek (New longer screws)
Spark plugs and air filter: 300 sek
Total cost: 7850 sek / 1 306,35 AUD

But i don't work well in the terrain. way to high gear ratio.

Mechz wrote:

NJV6 wrote:Mechz, your could also be the idle stepper motor - also common fault. Leads to poor or non idle.

Why these fail is that are pretty delicate and the crankcase breather going into the intake just before it so it gets full of oil vapour from the crankcase leading to fouling.

I tested the resistance of the ISM as per the service manual and one of the prongs reads 36ohms when the book says 28-33 is what it should be.

Is that too far out and should I replace it?

Can anyone help with my problem?