Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi there.

I did a search and couldn't find what I wanted , so I thought I would just ask.

In a Range rover classic.

If I remove the radiator and radiator support grill front bar etc , etc . Is it possible to remove engine and gearbox as a single unit ?



Any advice would be appreciated.

Cheers

Yes and luckily you can flip the bonnet right back so you dont have to remove it.

Great thanks , thats all I needed to know.

I did forget to mention that the gearbox is a 4 speed .

The rangey it's all going into has a 2 1/2 inch body lift , so I'm hoping putting it back in will be a little eaiser !

Thanks again.

Cheers

Hope that one has a removable radiator support also

Hi,

It's going to be VERY heavy with the LT 95 box.

When you put it in the other car make sure both trans rubber mounts are done up on the trans beforehand. The metal supporting brackets can be installed after.

You can't get a spanner one one of the nuts (driver's side?) from underneath the car. Some RR's have a hole cut in the floor to get around this.

There is also a method that involves an American screwdriver and a Stanley one to loosen/tighten this nut in situ, but see how you go.

cheers, DL

Yes it can be done.

Have to remove the crossmember. Mine needed a bit of persuasion.

The whole unit is very gearbox end heavy.
I attached a D shackle to the bracket on the RHS of the transfer case.
Lifted from 2 engine lifting brackets and this gearbox lifting point.

There is a hook on the LHS top of the gearbox which was useless for an engine/gearbox transplant. I think it's for gearbox only (through the floor)

Have to get the crane very low (very close to the carbs) so the chain didn't foul the firewall. Mine is a 4.4 so is slightly taller and is very close to the firewall anyway.

It didn't lift level (left to right) but was OK.

The angle (fore aft) was OK. Basically had the handbrake touching the ground and then lifting & pulling to get it all out.

As mentioned, when reinstalling, ensure the gearbox rubber mounts are secured to the gearbox prior to installing as these are impossible to get to.

Everything else is accessible.

Oh, and remove the handbrake pivot pin. This allows the handbrake lever to fully extend vertically to fit through the hole in the floor.

But the next question is "should you do it?"
It is bloody heavy so I hope you have a few mates.
AFAIR the LT95 weighs 170KG and a semi dressed engine about the same.
You will need a lot of room in front of the car
I think I would split the engine if it was me.
Regard sPhilip A

Thanks Guys .

The job is getting done at my mechanic's workshop , so I have the room and a nice level concrete floor ! I know it will be a struggle but I am trying to save on time ( and money ) by doing all the fiddly small time consuming stuff myself and giving him a hand with the actual removal.

Thanks for the info

Cheers

I have put my 4BD1T and Isuzu gearbox with LT230 in in one piece. That's probably 700kg all up.

Of course I was using a forklift and had the rangie up on blocks to get the required height.

Hi KB,

Bit off topic and seen Cloughy 'weigh in' on this issue on another forum. All that extra weight up front on a RRC totally upsets the balance of the car. :rofl:

DL

DL wrote:Hi KB,

Bit off topic and seen Cloughy 'weigh in' on this issue on another forum. All that extra weight up front on a RRC totally upsets the balance of the car.

DL

What'd I do

I just roll the body of the chassis, then lift them out with the tractor

To be honest, its a pain in the ass either way, but both work

DL wrote:Hi KB,

Bit off topic and seen Cloughy 'weigh in' on this issue on another forum. All that extra weight up front on a RRC totally upsets the balance of the car.

DL

The axle weights on mine are almost dead even (1170 rear, 1130 front), but this needs a different suspension setup to the original light front.
In particular more front roll stiffness is needed otherwise it gets quite tail-happy. A lot of fun in a 2.3t 4wd.

I've got mine how I like it, but it's a very different feel to a mates 86 V8 RRC.

Hi KB,

I've only got a Chev in mine. No A/C, no winch and only a light bullbar. Springs are uprated F&R. Don't really notice much difference in handling between it and others with the 3.5. Probably doesn't roll around as much on the road because the uprated rear springs have taken the load leveller out of the equation.

As I recall, Cloughy was having a laugh about someone on Aulro saying that installing a Chev diesel was going to ruin the balance of a RRC.

DL

DL wrote:Hi KB,

I've only got a Chev in mine. No A/C, no winch and only a light bullbar. Springs are uprated F&R. Don't really notice much difference in handling between it and others with the 3.5. Probably doesn't roll around as much on the road because the uprated rear springs have taken the load leveller out of the equation.

As I recall, Cloughy was having a laugh about someone on Aulro saying that installing a Chev diesel was going to ruin the balance of a RRC.

DL

I'm running factory HD springs (180lb/in) on all corners but still have the rear pneumatic leveller. I flipped my front spring mounts and welded in a pipe ring to locate the springs. Gives about 25mm more height, it sits level unloaded.
Koni's allround and dialling them in helped the most. I have to revalve the fronts again, a touch softer. They're twintube and easily tweaked.

There're a lot of armchair experts out there.

Just a update.

The engine and gearbox came out today. With no major problems. It sat level from side to side but at one hell of an angle from front to back, but I was expecting that.

It took me two days to pull off every thing that had to come off and about 20 min to get it out !

All I have to do now is start all over again on the second rangey !

The donor rangey is a stocker , so it will be interesting to see if it is any easier or harder to do the same job on the second one because of the extra height . ( 3 inch lift , 33's , 2 1/2 body lift ).

I'm hoping the body lift will make things a little easier. Though I have thought of putting smaller wheels on the front to bring the nose down a bit to improve the angle.

Thanks again for the info.

Cheers guys.

Braudy