Page 1 of 1
High beam GQ Patrol!
Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 9:50 pm
by dano80
I have put in some aftermarket Headlights, prior to this the hi/low switch worked fine. Now it seems to get stuck on high beam, occasionaly. If you flick the dipper switch a few times it seems to go into low beam, but by then the oncoming traffic is very unhappy!!! I put some large bulbs in 100/140w, is it the obvious problem? Just dont want to waste money on new bulbs if unessecary. Any ideas?
Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 10:39 pm
by drivesafe
Hi dano80, it sounds like the new globes may be overloading the switch.
If you still have them, try replacing the old globes and see if the problem persists or is solved.
Cheers.
Posted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 11:49 pm
by Bluey
yep, too much current for the switch. i'd be installing some larger cabling and relays to drive the bigger globes before you bugger the switch contacts, you'll find the light output will go up again too
Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 6:36 pm
by Cossie
Dont tell me you're trying to run 100/140's from the standard wiring loom?
Throw in a headlight upgrade loom, available, from ARB, Piranha, ebay, etc etc. Pretty cheap, very easy to install and less chance of your vehicle burning to the ground! I'd take em straight out until you do the loom, the switch is probably melting!
Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 4:41 pm
by dano80
Cheers Guys, will go out tommorow and get some smaller globes to tie me over, when I got some more coin will invest into wiring loom upgrade!
Dano
Posted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 7:54 pm
by dano80
What do you guys think the biggest (but also staying safe) globe is I can use? 60/55's just seem like some dim candles after the 100/140's. Could I get away with an 80/100 or something like that?
Posted: Wed Oct 10, 2007 8:20 pm
by chimpboy
I know the standard bulbs are unbelievably dim, but your best bet is to stick with them until you get around to upgrading the loom.
Posted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 4:06 pm
by dano80
Cheers Chimp, So something around about 60/55w just to tie me over, I thought that the originals are dim due to the fact they are not halogens, they are those crappy sealed beam thingies? Or maybe I'm just full of it?
Cheers, Dano.
Posted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 6:40 pm
by GQ Bear
Either put sealed beams back in or go to servo and grab a couple of H4 globes off the rack.
Then upgrade witing loom to run 100/140's
When heading offroad put sealed beams back in or carry as spares as upgrade lights leak like seives and smash globes upon slightest contact with water.
Posted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 6:55 pm
by brads4wdmad
dano80 wrote:What do you guys think the biggest (but also staying safe) globe is I can use? 60/55's just seem like some dim candles after the 100/140's. Could I get away with an 80/100 or something like that?
In my opinion mate I just changed my lights to the Narva 72036 7" semi sealed conversion and the Narva Artic Blue lights and they are white as
very bright white and are only standard wattages
very happy with them
In total it did cost $120 but for the white light, its worth it
Cheers
Brad
Posted: Thu Oct 11, 2007 7:03 pm
by GUJohnno
Here's a wiring diagram for your headlight upgrade
Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 3:48 pm
by Timbo(Rodeo)
Speaking of the above wiring diagram.. Can anyone tell me why everything I have seen and read has shown the lowbeam as the top middle pin on the H4 connector... yet when I tested it on my 1998 Rodeo... it is actually the Highbeam, and low is the side connector.
I would have though that H4 is H4 and there is only one type? Or have I messed something up?
I have my new IPF Spots hooked up to the middle top pin, and they only come on when on highbeam. So it seems to work ok.
Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 9:27 pm
by -Scott-
Timbo(Rodeo) wrote:I would have though that H4 is H4 and there is only one type? Or have I messed something up?
Yes.
Timbo(Rodeo) wrote:I have my new IPF Spots hooked up to the middle top pin, and they only come on when on highbeam. So it seems to work ok.
Your Rodeo uses negative switching, so there is always power to one end of both filaments (the common) and the other end of the filament is switched to ground to make light.
When you switch to highbeam your relay is being fed 12V through your lowbeam filament, so your spots turn on. When you switch to low beam the filament has 12V across it, and the spots relay doesn't turn on.
Posted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 6:29 am
by Timbo(Rodeo)
Yep I think I get it now. Thanks Scott.
But it works correctly so I'll leave it as is. Just have to remember what should happen when I do a loom upgrade soon
Posted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 9:51 pm
by dano80
So I finally got around to putting some other globes in, 60/55w, Still same story. Is there a possibility of the relay that is used to turn on the driving/spot lights getting stuck open and therefore 'backing up' to the switch. The relay I used is an oldie but it worked when I used it 2-3 months ago, couldn't tell you how old it is. Any help greatly appreciated.
Cheers, Dano.
P.S. The car was not really driven at night while the 'BIG' globes were in if this helps at all.
Posted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 10:23 pm
by ST391GQ
I reckon the damage from the high wattage bulbs has been done to your switchgear....and contacts etc. have been fried....so looks like it mite be a trip to the wreckers
Cheers Keith