Outer Limits 4x4 Board

***DISCLAIMER - Bogged, I have used the search but can't find what i need***

Recently got the turbo diesel started up - took a jumper pack and a subaru forester to do it - but can't get it going again. At the moment it is just turning over but not fireing. Now, my question is of two parts, could this be cecause we aren't getting enough ompf from the pissy little jumper pack and small forester battery? Or, is it possible that we need new glow plugs?

We have got diesel up to the engine - fuel comes out of the bleed screw when undone - so, it is not a fuel pump issue. Neither of us a very good with diesels, so thought it best to get some vague opinions from some of you guys who do know a thing or two about the old Nissan turbo diesels.

Cheers
SANGA

matey, how fast is it turning over? if its just managing (ie extremely struggeling) to get past tdc, then you might wanna try another batt, or if its a manual, try tow starting it.

btw, that subaru your jumpin it with, is that diesel or petty? if its petty, chances are there not enough amps in the little batt to turn over the MQ (or fast enough anyways) does the MQ make a heap of clicks when your turning the key to start it? if so, then yeah its a low amp batt.

it doesn't make a heap of clicks but it doesn't appear to be turning over really quick. We have got a truck battery on charge at the moment (brand new too). Guess we will find out about the battery soon enough.

But, if this doesn't fix it, could it be something as simple as the glow plugs being worn out?

mkpatrol wrote: Posted in 2004

Just behind the injector pump you will see a part with a cable coming out of it which attatches to the pump. It looks a bit like a wiper motor. Check to see if it has power running to it, if it does then a fair chance the motor is buggered.
A cheap & permanent fix for this is to fit an after market choke cable to operate the fuel cut off. This will be no problem to the operation of the vehicle but you will have to push it in to start it & pull it out to stop it. All trucks & farm machinery had this system right up until the early 80's.
To replace the motor can be quite expensive and all it really does is let you shut the engine down with the key instead of manually.

Was just reading this and had a thought. If this little motor (Edic motor I think) is buggered is it possible it has become stuck in the position that kills the engine, or does it only get stuck in the engine on position?

Guy From Nowhere wrote:

mkpatrol wrote: Posted in 2004

Just behind the injector pump you will see a part with a cable coming out of it which attatches to the pump. It looks a bit like a wiper motor. Check to see if it has power running to it, if it does then a fair chance the motor is buggered.
A cheap & permanent fix for this is to fit an after market choke cable to operate the fuel cut off. This will be no problem to the operation of the vehicle but you will have to push it in to start it & pull it out to stop it. All trucks & farm machinery had this system right up until the early 80's.
To replace the motor can be quite expensive and all it really does is let you shut the engine down with the key instead of manually.

Was just reading this and had a thought. If this little motor (Edic motor I think) is buggered is it possible it has become stuck in the position that kills the engine, or does it only get stuck in the engine on position?

Have you craked the injector lines and made sure fuel is up there. You mention that you have done it at the injector pump but not at the injectors.

Still should be able to get some sort of life from it even though the glows are farked. i find pumping the fark out of the accell pedal also brings em to life pretty quick.

Where abouts in syd are ya.

Yeah checked the injector lines and appear to have fuel to there as well Pongo.

I have had another thought though. I bought a light truck battery - suitable for mums diesel navara - to put in our POS. However, I did notice another battery carrier on the other side. Now, it looks a little like it might be an after market add in and the volt meter only goes to 18V. So, I was wondering if we can conclude that it is infact a 12V model? Did the 24V have a bigger volt meter inside?

Cheers
guys and gals

Guy From Nowhere wrote:Yeah checked the injector lines and appear to have fuel to there as well Pongo.

I have had another thought though. I bought a light truck battery - suitable for mums diesel navara - to put in our POS. However, I did notice another battery carrier on the other side. Now, it looks a little like it might be an after market add in and the volt meter only goes to 18V. So, I was wondering if we can conclude that it is infact a 12V model? Did the 24V have a bigger volt meter inside?

Cheers
guys and gals

yes it does...24v goes up to 36v. In a 24v it should be at 28v on the meter when running. 12v? Well I wish I had a 12v diesel...

sounds like the little mottor that turns the injecter pump from run to to stop has stuck un the off postion like you mentioned (mine did it the other night after stopping to get pizza ) just pull the metel lever off and it will flick back to run and start no prob's I was under the impression thatr they get stuck on run but obiously not

i had to jum[start mine yesty, took a auto sparkies BIG battery, like 24billion cca type battery, and my step fathers jeep, running for 15 mins first, b4 it would start... but i got a 24v version... tho i do hear the 12v are nearly as hard to jump...


check your fuel governor has power to it, if not there is a chance that your fuel pump is being held in the off position... if this is the case you can still manualy pump diesel thru, but it wont bring it thru itself... (let me know if you cant find it and ill go take a pick of mine for you)


if it comes down to it, run 3 bats in parralell to get the amps up... then at least you can conclude whether its simply not getting enough grunt.

If hes got fuel at the injectors i cant see it being a fiddly elec issue.

even if the plug off the turbo injector pump is unplugged it will start but will stall again.

Id say you need a decent battery and a decent set of jumjper leads.

If your still buggered by the weekend drop me a pm, I may be able to help on sat night. I have a whole elec setup of a motor here but its alreaedy sold, so could only use it for evalution purposes to try and sort it out.


See how you go. IF you think its glows, spray a bit of aero start, deoderant, etc down its throat when you try and start it. , But dont go over board.

The glows should be warm to touch once theyve cycled. If you hold the key past on but not all the way to start you should be able to hear a solanoid click, that is the manual overide for the glows. I use this trick every day. hold for about 10 secondes and try again.

They do need to spin pretty quick or they wont start. I much prefer the 24 volt to start.

Id say a decent battery and a bit of fiddling and youll be in buiness. Pretty good old girls if you ask me. and bloody bullet proof motor

PONGO,

you were right about the battery. We got the truck battery fully charged and it started first go. I must say it is running very smoothly. Took it out onto the tar and gave it some stick. I was impressed to say the least; it has almost as much pickup as my LWB 60 series with a 302 Cleveland V8! Turbos at the ducks nuts!

Also, MACCA81, if you could take a photo of the govenor that would be swoit! I think I have found it, and if so it was a little sticky. But, would be good to make sure.

Cheers guys
SANGA

P.S. We painted it Army cam yesterday, looks pretty good for a rush-backyard job. Will post pics in members after the weekend if anyone is interested.

block off the waste gate and add a nice zorst, will go even better

Some 4.6 pettrol diffs are almost must have as well for offroading

Thats about all ya need for a fun rig.

Good to hear shes all sweet. make with the pics

Pongo,

here's the link to our quasi-build with pics:

PTE Jack Oates

By the way, found the other reason it was having trouble starting. There is a loose wire somwhere in the harness running to the starter-motor. So, couple undercharged battery with intemittent flywheel contact and you have no go. For now it is as simple has holding the harnes and pushing towards starter! Will rip it out and fix later.

So, if firing is an issue in your MK/MQ 12VDiesel check the following:
- Battery charge;
- Kill switch function (govenor);
- Forward & Rear injector bleed screws for fuel;
- Injector lines for fuel;
- Condition of glow plugs; and,
- Starter motor wiring and function.

With the starter motor, you know you have issues when the battery is fine and only a click click followed by nothing is heard when starting; as long as the govenor is functioning.

We found that order to be the most useful in terms of time wastage and expenss; cheers to Pongo, RMP&O and those who helped.

Cheers
SANGA & WHEATS