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Fitting a Pyro

Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 6:36 pm
by frp88
How hard is it ? It doesn't sound to hard but I thought I would ask the question.What sort of coin would I we up for?Cos before the pump or the extra boost is coming I getting a Pyro.

Posted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 6:46 pm
by blackmav
Easy.
I put one of these in http://www.thermoguard.com.au/index.html

Couple of hundred dollars. Neat fit. Responsive.

Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 12:42 am
by Tapage

Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 6:53 am
by me3@neuralfibre.com
I got an autometer diesel gauge (0-900c) from the US. Nice n cheap. You'll need a drill bit and a tap 1/4" npt. Took 10 mins to drill and tap the manifold gently gently. I couldn't get a 0-15psi boost gauge, but a autometer 0-15psi fuel pressure gauge works fine for boost.

Paul

Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 9:22 am
by Guy

Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 9:44 am
by danaz
How much was the autometer gauge?

Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 9:50 am
by me3@neuralfibre.com
danaz wrote:How much was the autometer gauge?
US$147.88 3344-M
US$39.88 fuel (boost) pressure 3311
US$44 Delivery

Atlanticspeed

Paul

Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 12:24 pm
by Guy
I looked about for a while and got an autometer "colbolt" series EGT gauge for $126 (aus) delivered.
It had damaged packaging otherwise in perfect order.

Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 2:30 pm
by Disco1Modified
I bought one of these
http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page ... ucts_id=19

and
http://auberins.com/index.php?main_page ... ucts_id=22

Took a week to get here and works brilliantly

looks like this
Image

Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 2:41 pm
by Guy
I used Autometer as the probe\thermocouple have a very good reputation of being extremely long lived. Though I do like the realy output idea ...
would be sweet to use something like that to run a water pump on a water to air intercooler.

Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 5:01 pm
by rover1
VDO are good, around the 300 mark, easy to install. well worth getting a pyro before any engine mods are done imo. saved me.

Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 5:07 pm
by KiwiBacon
Hot tip, use steel compression fittings.
Brass soften and continually loosen at the temps a probe will see.

Steel fittings are harder to find, you'll prob have to get a hose and fitting shop to order them in.

Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 7:20 pm
by frp88
love_mud wrote:I looked about for a while and got an autometer "colbolt" series EGT gauge for $126 (aus) delivered.
It had damaged packaging otherwise in perfect order.
who did you order them though

Posted: Wed Oct 03, 2007 11:49 pm
by Tapage
I'm not sure with other options .. but in VDO you can buy the pyro and termocouple in a kit ( 6' cable )

Image

Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 7:04 am
by frp88
I like that one :D

Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 9:14 am
by KiwiBacon
Tapage wrote:I'm not sure with other options .. but in VDO you can buy the pyro and termocouple in a kit ( 6' cable )

Image
My VDO gauge doesn't have "BOOST" written across it. I feel like I've missed out now.

Posted: Thu Oct 04, 2007 9:51 am
by me3@neuralfibre.com
KiwiBacon wrote:
Tapage wrote:I'm not sure with other options .. but in VDO you can buy the pyro and termocouple in a kit ( 6' cable )

Image
My VDO gauge doesn't have "BOOST" written across it. I feel like I've missed out now.
Mine has "FUEL" "Must be mounted outside of vehicle", but hey, the scale is perfect.

Paul

Posted: Fri Oct 05, 2007 6:54 pm
by frp88
I was bidding on ebay for 1 but i didn't get it :bad-words:

Posted: Fri Oct 05, 2007 11:45 pm
by Guy
frp88 wrote:
love_mud wrote:I looked about for a while and got an autometer "colbolt" series EGT gauge for $126 (aus) delivered.
It had damaged packaging otherwise in perfect order.
who did you order them though

Private seller .. was in no hurry as my toibo was stuffed for a while

Posted: Fri Oct 05, 2007 11:47 pm
by shorty_f0rty
my mechanic put the temp sender for my pyro here.. probably because it was easily accessible?

Image
Image

i mounted the guage under the dash shelf..
Image
Image

from what i have noticed the guage is pretty responsive with the probe where it is..

Posted: Sat Oct 06, 2007 9:38 am
by rover1
thats looks like its a long way away from the turbo....

Posted: Sat Oct 06, 2007 10:32 am
by shorty_f0rty
rover1 wrote:thats looks like its a long way away from the turbo....
*sigh*.. if only i had a turbo.. :(

its just under where the extractors come into 1

Posted: Sat Oct 06, 2007 4:10 pm
by frp88
shorty_f0rty wrote:
rover1 wrote:thats looks like its a long way away from the turbo....
*sigh*.. if only i had a turbo.. :(

its just under where the extractors come into 1
where did you get it from

Posted: Sat Oct 06, 2007 6:56 pm
by shorty_f0rty
frp88 wrote:
shorty_f0rty wrote:
rover1 wrote:thats looks like its a long way away from the turbo....
*sigh*.. if only i had a turbo.. :(

its just under where the extractors come into 1
where did you get it from
i got it off a mate for $100 who got it off ebay (he reckons for the same price)..
its not the best one.. its a pita to wire up (haven't integrated it into the car 12v yet because of this)
its hard to see in the daylight and its really bright at night

but for $100.. i can't really complain too much.

Posted: Mon Oct 08, 2007 11:00 pm
by vanbox
anyway possible to drill the exhaust manifold without lettin the swarf (spelling???) go through the turbo?

not just a "try this, it might work"

removing turbo is a lot of work considering ill snap most of the bolts/studs

cheers

PAUL

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 9:18 am
by Guy
vanbox wrote:anyway possible to drill the exhaust manifold without lettin the swarf (spelling???) go through the turbo?

not just a "try this, it might work"

removing turbo is a lot of work considering ill snap most of the bolts/studs

cheers

PAUL
There is no 100% sure fire way to do what you ask.

If it is that much work why not put it post turbo and add 100C to your measurements ?

If you do take the turbo off, remember to use something like nickel antisieze when putting it back together (makes taking it apart again further down the road so much easier.

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 9:39 am
by KiwiBacon
love_mud wrote: If it is that much work why not put it post turbo and add 100C to your measurements ?
The temp drop across your turbo is constantly changing. The 100 deg C is only a fudge factor.
IMO pryo after the turbo is a half-arsed way of doing it which gives poor results.

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 9:40 am
by vanbox
its just that its a litle more accurate pre turbo. but i think im going to have to settle for post.

just waiting on a new dump pipe and will tap it into that.

cheers

PAUL

Posted: Tue Oct 09, 2007 12:30 pm
by Guy
KiwiBacon wrote:
love_mud wrote: If it is that much work why not put it post turbo and add 100C to your measurements ?
The temp drop across your turbo is constantly changing. The 100 deg C is only a fudge factor.
IMO pryo after the turbo is a half-arsed way of doing it which gives poor results.
I am well aware of that (hence I spent the time pulling my manifold to install the thermocouple ) but if it is going to be a huge issue to remove and the manifold then somtimes unfortunately you just have to live with compromise.

Posted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 8:40 pm
by frp88
well I got one of ebay with the 24volt reducer for $270 well now I have to find time to fit it