Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Just need some opinion on the above comparison. Which is a better setup?

1) Twin arb locks with 2 inch Koni LTR
2) Front air lock, 4inch EFS Extreme with rear LSD

Contrary to my username, I do own a GQ 2.8TD.

Cheers

What do you want to use the vehicle for ??? Set up is totaly different for each and every set up.

Off road fun at 4by parks, ormeau etc. Not for touring.

gxlprado wrote:Off road fun at 4by parks, ormeau etc. Not for touring.

I have auto locker front, lsd rear, 4' lift. good enough for the punishment i give it. been to most parks and done alot of stuff at ormeau, tower etc. invest in or build some sliders also cause your confidence will grow with the extra capability.

cheers alex.

If it's a shorty.

2" lift with longer shocks, front airlocker and rear LSD, rockhoppers and X-link front. Cut your guards and run bigger rubber.

I wish I had done this from the start and not had to redo everything so many times.

id go the 4inch lift, front locka and rebuild the rear lsd it will be a weapon,

at some stage when money let it i will end up doing the same thing

If you go: Front air lock, 4inch EFS Extreme with rear LSD, what are you including with the 4" lift? Cos you're gonna want to budget for adjustable panhards and strengthened lower rear control arms and tierod/draglink.
Also standard cv's aren't gonna last long with a front locker.

Cossie wrote:If you go: Front air lock, 4inch EFS Extreme with rear LSD, what are you including with the 4" lift? Cos you're gonna want to budget for adjustable panhards and strengthened lower rear control arms and tierod/draglink.
Also standard cv's aren't gonna last long with a front locker.

Why not? I don't break any and I run 37s and I know plenty of others that don't break theirs either.

I reckon go the 4" so you can run 35's and then have some real fun. Nissan LSD's are pretty damned good and with the assistance of a front locker they can go anywhere. I have similar setup.

Twin lockers would be awesome, but if you're limited to 2" lift you're limited to 33" tyres and...well, you're limited.

The whole point of lifting a 4wd is to fit bigger rubber and, therefore, create extra diff clearance. You can jack it up into the sky and with 31 or 33's you're big Nissan diffs will still be only inches from the ground. Likewise barely lift it and chop shite out of guards with 35 or 37's and you've got a go-anywhere beast.

As previously mentioned don't forget panhard rods, extended brake lines and castor correction when going 4" lift.

lock the front, 4" and 35s

gxlprado wrote:Just need some opinion on the above comparison. Which is a better setup?

1) Twin arb locks with 2 inch Koni LTR
2) Front air lock, 4inch EFS Extreme with rear LSD

Contrary to my username, I do own a GQ 2.8TD.

Cheers

You've only got a 2.8 like to see how it goes in standard form pushing 35's

My option would the first and one a do a body lift then you can run 35's down the track.

ZOOK60 fitted 38s with a 2" lift by trimming his guards. I prefer not to encourage people that only want to run 33s or 35s to get a bodylift. Bodylifts put too much strain on bodymounts. I've seen heaps of GQs with broken chassis mounts and cracked floors and they all start to creak and groan after a while. I hate mine that much I am rebuilding my front bar, sliders and rear bar and have to cut and move my front body mounts (as I raised them rather than using lift blocks) just to take mine out! That's a lot of work to get rid of a 2" bodylift, but that's how much they suck.

Bottom line is, if you want to run 35s space your front control arms forward, and extend your bumpstops and trim your guards a bit on the rear. You will retain a lower centre of gravity and not get any problems that are associated with cab lifts. Just my opinion.

Looks like the vote is split 50/50...........In the long run you're gonna need the clearance for tyre size to 'play'. As far as $ goes, 2" with body lift and twin lockers will work better than 4" springs and caster plates and adjustable rear links, adjustable panhards, insurance etc.etc.

In short.........if you have the $$$ go the 4"

Is it a daily driver? Your in Qld too I gather from saying 4b parks? You want to be road legal?

front locker, rear LSD and 2inch sus lift... then go bodylift if you really think you need it..

2.8's dont push 35's very well without doing diffs which is another 2grand fitted - but if you rdoing diff ratios, then do lockers at same time save bux.

bogged where do you think 4.625 ratio diffs come from? and as soon as the NCOP comes in he can get a 4" approoved. I would not reccomend 4.88 diffs to anyone unless in a hilux or simillar

Nelso wrote:

Cossie wrote:If you go: Front air lock, 4inch EFS Extreme with rear LSD, what are you including with the 4" lift? Cos you're gonna want to budget for adjustable panhards and strengthened lower rear control arms and tierod/draglink.
Also standard cv's aren't gonna last long with a front locker.

Why not? I don't break any and I run 37s and I know plenty of others that don't break theirs either.

You need to try a bit harder then...

BROKEN CV = TIME (PITA to fix) + MONEY (better spent on other things)

DRIVE LIKE DICKHEAD = BROKEN CV

therefore: If you drive like a dickhead it costs you time and money.

I'd rather try not to break them.

nastytroll wrote: I would not reccomend 4.88 diffs to anyone unless in a hilux or simillar

why not? i have them in mine

I have and know alot of people that have broken front gear sets, some also broken rears, your rear should be fine and I dont think you will drive hard enough to brake a front but the difference between 4.6 n 4.8 is enough that with 33" tyres doin 100km/h the motor is screamin, best to stick with 4.6 n keep your options open abit more

nastytroll wrote:I have and know alot of people that have broken front gear sets, some also broken rears, your rear should be fine and I dont think you will drive hard enough to brake a front but the difference between 4.6 n 4.8 is enough that with 33" tyres doin 100km/h the motor is screamin, best to stick with 4.6 n keep your options open abit more

ive broken a couple of sets of rear 4.6s the pinions just dont have enough teeth on them 4.88 are even weaker.and to answer the question i would go 4inch lift and 2x lockers and 35s but you will need crawler gears to turn them with a 2.8d but then it will be a capable truck

nastytroll wrote:but the difference between 4.6 n 4.8 is enough that with 33" tyres doin 100km/h the motor is screamin

i have 35s but. at 100km/h im only doing around 2500rpm and 16-17L per hundred
as soon as i go to 120km/h it goes up toward 20L per hundred

Nelso wrote:BROKEN CV = TIME (PITA to fix) + MONEY (better spent on other things)

DRIVE LIKE DICKHEAD = BROKEN CV

therefore: If you drive like a dickhead it costs you time and money.

I'd rather try not to break them.

Ever replaced one? 20min job in the bush. Even quicker at home or in workshop.
BTW mine haven't broken yet and they cop heaps. Just one of the lucky ones i think.

i would consider puttins in a set of transfer gears to b pretty high up on the list, would make it alot easyer to drive

I'd go 4" lift suspension, front locker n transgears. get a rear locker if you find you rearly need it but trangears would be better with 35" tyres.

j-top paj I would like my car doin 2000 to 2200 rpm at 100km/h with the 4.88 gears I had to run 37's to get the rpm back to that and with 33's it was about 3200 or somethin like that it was screamin on the hyway n goin nowhere

mundy wrote:i would consider puttins in a set of transfer gears to b pretty high up on the list, would make it alot easyer to drive

definatley..
gears certainly make the trol drive completely different

nastytroll wrote:
j-top paj I would like my car doin 2000 to 2200 rpm at 100km/h with the 4.88 gears I had to run 37's to get the rpm back to that and with 33's it was about 3200 or somethin like that it was screamin on the hyway n goin nowhere

is yours petrol or diesel?

he has a 2.8 gq so it will have 4.6 diffs std so it will need 4.88

GRINCH wrote:he has a 2.8 gq so it will have 4.6 diffs std so it will need 4.88

nastytroll had a rd28? or the bloke asking the original question?

I have had a few mates with 2.8's they ran 35 an 37"s was ok an raod but a bit gutless off road. I have td42t's and just sold tb42 carb. Remember with reduction gears you multiply the torque produced by the motor by the redution % so 2.8 will have heaps of power.

I still would not run 4.88 gears as a 5.5% redution would not be worth the money outlay

How many comp trucks do you see with 4" lift now? Most are staying as low as possible. Most of the well setup trucks (that aren't running coil overs) are running 2 or 3 lifts. IMHO you'll far better of with a 2" lift, but get really good shocks ie remote canister type, and then cut the guards to fit whatever tyre size you want.
It depends wether you want to look tough and go hard. ie 4" looks tough, 2"or 3" goes hard!
I'd get a front locker and stay with the rear LSD as that works pretty good. I'd save the money from the rear locker and spend it on more power as you'll use it a lot more than the locker.

To stop CV's breaking run cheap free wheel hubs as they break firs and can be reolaced far quicker and are about the same price. The factory hubs are stronger than the CV.