Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Just a quick question, I have brought a lock right to fit to my 4runner, just looked over the instructions, the kit comes with 2 collars for each side but in the instructions it does not show them being fitted,
by the looks of them if you fit them the pinion will not fit.
any info would be great.
I think they may not go in.
has anyone fitted one of these.
thanks

the instruction are pretty clear. you take out all the gears (side gears and spider gears) and replace them with the clutches. all the gears you take out don't go back in.

They are simple, although there is one cockup you can make (I made it)

Pull out axles
Pull out diff
Note and mark positon of bearing caps. Do not adjust the rings.
Pull the 4 bolts, drop the centre
Split the centre, do not remove the crown wheel
Throw away the 4 plantery gears. The side gears are used to mate to the rings.
Insert 2 rings with pins and springs. The the pins and springs in the right holes, else you get to repeat. Instructions are (were) vague. 2 Holes are round, 2 are offset. From memory(5 years ago) the springs go in the holes, the pins in the oval bits.
Reassemble, be careful not to cross the threads of the bearing caps, easy to do.
Install axles etc
Test it when assembled. Should unlock with one finger.

PS. Hope your 4 runner is not LSD, else = screwed

Paul

The best tip I can give about fitting a lockright is


DON'T

DR Frankenstine wrote:The best tip I can give about fitting a lockright is


DON'T

2nd'd.

Fix an ARB.

Guys the dude already has one .. I am guessing he is committed.
A lockright is not that bad.

what model lockright are you fitting ?

gotoy wrote:

DR Frankenstine wrote:The best tip I can give about fitting a lockright is


DON'T

2nd'd.

Fix an ARB.

It depends ..

I pass over LR, EZ, Detroit etc .. and stick with ARB but know mates with LR for years and still happy with less ( much less ) money than me ..

It depends on your rig .. driving stile and if are DD or not ..

the locker is a 1611, it is for the front diff. I found in the instructions that some models dont fit the spaceres. I see if they fit, if they dont they wont go in.

gotoy wrote:

DR Frankenstine wrote:The best tip I can give about fitting a lockright is


DON'T

2nd'd.

Fix an ARB.

Fully diagree the lockrite in the rear is awsome and far superior (in my opinion) to a arb lokker.....

Mate they are easy as to fit but as long as you have a good understanding of fitting and how a diff works its simple...jst fiddley

thanks for the help guys, I fit the locker yesterday and took it for a run, I was very happy with it, I will be taking it for another run tommorrow.
hopefully all goes well.

brad 93hilux wrote:

gotoy wrote:

DR Frankenstine wrote:The best tip I can give about fitting a lockright is


DON'T

2nd'd.

Fix an ARB.

Fully diagree the lockrite in the rear is awsome and far superior (in my opinion) to a arb lokker.....

Mate they are easy as to fit but as long as you have a good understanding of fitting and how a diff works its simple...jst fiddley

There a poor mans ARB locker.

One day you'll want it off, but it will be on.

gotoy wrote:

brad 93hilux wrote:

gotoy wrote:

DR Frankenstine wrote:The best tip I can give about fitting a lockright is


DON'T

2nd'd.

Fix an ARB.

Fully diagree the lockrite in the rear is awsome and far superior (in my opinion) to a arb lokker..... :finger:

Mate they are easy as to fit but as long as you have a good understanding of fitting and how a diff works its simple...jst fiddley

There a poor mans ARB locker.

One day you'll want it off, but it will be on.

Do we need to start the debate again? These things are never locked, if you say they are, you don't know how they work.

http://neuralfibre.com/paul/?p=162

Paul

me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:

gotoy wrote:

brad 93hilux wrote:

gotoy wrote:

DR Frankenstine wrote:The best tip I can give about fitting a lockright is


DON'T

2nd'd.

Fix an ARB.

Fully diagree the lockrite in the rear is awsome and far superior (in my opinion) to a arb lokker.....

Mate they are easy as to fit but as long as you have a good understanding of fitting and how a diff works its simple...jst fiddley

There a poor mans ARB locker.

One day you'll want it off, but it will be on.

Do we need to start the debate again? These things are never locked, if you say they are, you don't know how they work.

http://neuralfibre.com/paul/?p=162

Paul

Oh really? Had one in your vehicle? If you ever have then you can talk.

Last poll, 90% said they were s*** and favoured ARB.

Hold ye own poll if you wish.

gotoy wrote:

me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:

gotoy wrote:

brad 93hilux wrote:

gotoy wrote: 2nd'd.

Fix an ARB.

Fully diagree the lockrite in the rear is awsome and far superior (in my opinion) to a arb lokker..... :finger:

Mate they are easy as to fit but as long as you have a good understanding of fitting and how a diff works its simple...jst fiddley

There a poor mans ARB locker.

One day you'll want it off, but it will be on.

Do we need to start the debate again? These things are never locked, if you say they are, you don't know how they work.

http://neuralfibre.com/paul/?p=162

Paul

Oh really? Had one in your vehicle? If you ever have then you can talk.

Last poll, 90% said they were s*** and favoured ARB.

Hold ye own poll if you wish.

Owned both. Opinions vary, accepted. Fact still stands, they are never "locked"

Paul

me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:

gotoy wrote:

me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:

gotoy wrote:

brad 93hilux wrote: Fully diagree the lockrite in the rear is awsome and far superior (in my opinion) to a arb lokker.....

Mate they are easy as to fit but as long as you have a good understanding of fitting and how a diff works its simple...jst fiddley

There a poor mans ARB locker.

One day you'll want it off, but it will be on.

Do we need to start the debate again? These things are never locked, if you say they are, you don't know how they work.

http://neuralfibre.com/paul/?p=162

Paul

Oh really? Had one in your vehicle? If you ever have then you can talk.

Last poll, 90% said they were s*** and favoured ARB.

Hold ye own poll if you wish.

Owned both. Opinions vary, accepted. Fact still stands, they are never "locked"

Paul

I just read your explanation of how an auto or mecahnical locker works..and its good.

For me, I will still go ARB. Everyone has their chice.

yay for the leaky locker...

Im never going to get an air locker, every 4wd event i have competed or marshaled at everyone with an air locker is competing the 2nd day without lockers...

IMOP Air lockers are a load of crap

Im a full supporter of the full camed Detroit

me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:

gotoy wrote:

brad 93hilux wrote:

gotoy wrote:

DR Frankenstine wrote:The best tip I can give about fitting a lockright is


DON'T

2nd'd.

Fix an ARB.

Fully diagree the lockrite in the rear is awsome and far superior (in my opinion) to a arb lokker.....

Mate they are easy as to fit but as long as you have a good understanding of fitting and how a diff works its simple...jst fiddley

There a poor mans ARB locker.

One day you'll want it off, but it will be on.

Do we need to start the debate again? These things are never locked, if you say they are, you don't know how they work.

http://neuralfibre.com/paul/?p=162

Paul

You obviously don't know how they work!!! the only time they are unlocked is under no acceleration or deceleration. Even under slight acceleration around tight corners the tyres will scuff on the road. The more the acceleration the tighter they will lock. The opposing resistance of the tyres on the road needs to be greater than the torque being applied by the motor for the Auto locker to un-lock.
I put a brand new set of 35" X-Terrains on an mq LWB with a lockright a few years back and the rears wore out at least twice as fast as the fronts.

Went out today with a mate who has just had his $3300.00 air lockers fitted to his GQ 2 days ago, and me with my sub standard (apparently) Lockright Powertrax No slip Lockers $1200.00 and guess who spent half the day lockerless due to a failure of some rubber internal bits.

Yep it wasn't me. Now he'll spend another couple of days without his vehicle while it's repaired. Too much hassle in my opinion for a pssst noise.

And as for wearing out rear tyres, i'd say they must be running the std Lockrights or Lokkas and not the Powertrax Noslip Lockers as these are as smooth as a good LSD as proven by 10,000km in my troopy so far.

Most passengers don't even know there's a rear locker fitted when driving around town .

I took mine out againe to test it out and I was impressed again,
I pick my locker up for $300. from a guy off ebay, cant complain about that.
my mate had an Arb fitted to his patrol cost him about $1800.00
I know I cant aford that. I will be going out this sunday to glass house mountains to see how it goes out there, hopefull all will go well.

Paul Smith wrote:I took mine out againe to test it out and I was impressed again,
I pick my locker up for $300. from a guy off ebay, cant complain about that.
my mate had an Arb fitted to his patrol cost him about $1800.00
I know I cant aford that. I will be going out this sunday to glass house mountains to see how it goes out there, hopefull all will go well.

Thats what it is all about (doing what you can afford) not every one has the money for the expensive but good air lokka....
I have both and have had the auto in the front for years... and would still reccommend them. (though better in the rear)

'They are a poor mans lokka' ... What a joke, there is alot to go wrong with arb's and when they do they are expensive.

But as said each to there own...

Brad

brad 93hilux wrote:

Paul Smith wrote:I took mine out againe to test it out and I was impressed again,
I pick my locker up for $300. from a guy off ebay, cant complain about that.
my mate had an Arb fitted to his patrol cost him about $1800.00
I know I cant aford that. I will be going out this sunday to glass house mountains to see how it goes out there, hopefull all will go well.

Thats what it is all about (doing what you can afford) not every one has the money for the expensive but good air lokka....
I have both and have had the auto in the front for years... and would still reccommend them. (though better in the rear)

'They are a poor mans lokka' ... What a joke, there is alot to go wrong with arb's and when they do they are expensive.

But as said each to there own...

Brad

I couldn't agree more, Buy the best you can afford. It's easy for me (and others) to say they are crap but at the end of the day they work. I must admit I never had any trouble with my lockrite and I have had trouble with Air lockers. I don't run either now All I have are LSD's front and rear and they do the job for me.

DR Frankenstine wrote:You obviously don't know how they work!!! the only time they are unlocked is under no acceleration or deceleration. Even under slight acceleration around tight corners the tyres will scuff on the road. The more the acceleration the tighter they will lock. The opposing resistance of the tyres on the road needs to be greater than the torque being applied by the motor for the Auto locker to un-lock.
I put a brand new set of 35" X-Terrains on an mq LWB with a lockright a few years back and the rears wore out at least twice as fast as the fronts.

You're an idiot and obviously didn't read the URL. Read, learn, then talk.
The reason your tyres wore is due to your lead foot and the inside tyre doing all the work and spinning up.

Paul

me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:

DR Frankenstine wrote:You obviously don't know how they work!!! the only time they are unlocked is under no acceleration or deceleration. Even under slight acceleration around tight corners the tyres will scuff on the road. The more the acceleration the tighter they will lock. The opposing resistance of the tyres on the road needs to be greater than the torque being applied by the motor for the Auto locker to un-lock.
I put a brand new set of 35" X-Terrains on an mq LWB with a lockright a few years back and the rears wore out at least twice as fast as the fronts.

You're an idiot and obviously didn't read the URL. Read, learn, then talk.
The reason your tyres wore is due to your lead foot and the inside tyre doing all the work and spinning up.

Paul

Yes I did read YOUR!! url and take note of YOUR!! interpretation of how an auto locker works. What makes you the unreputed expert? Yes you are right in theory, However in practice this isn't the case. While the cross shaft is splitting the cases like a wedge in a log of wood, It is putting equal force on both sets of side gears. For the side gear to unlock or cam around the inside wheel (or outside for that matter) need to apply more force to its respective gear than the driveline for it to un-lock. Its as simple as that. Further more how dare you call me an idiot, what gives you the right, you don't know me, it's easy to hide behind a keyboard mouthing off.
Peter

Nicely left for me on my site:

Paul, If this is your interpretation of an auto locker you are the fucking idiot.
Now it is against outerlimits policy for people to personally attack others so I expect a public appology for your comments. You will do this or I will lodge an official complaint and have you banned from the site.
Regards Peter

Simple test
With a rear lockrite installed drive forwards or backwards onto a rock/log high enough for the opposite wheel to come off the ground. Keeping the driving force applied (you could do this by driving up hill slightly and stalling on the log) get out and try to turn the wheel in the air by hand. According to Pauls explanation of how an auto locker works you should be able to. I will bet you can't.....

this poor bloke has asked a question on how to fit a locker he has purchased (and is probably excited about) and you guys have turned this into another bloody post about which locker is better.

then proceeed to proliferate this into into a shit fight between two people.

if you like auto lockers then good on you if you dont then equally good on you.

why ruin the experience for this bloke? keep you bickering bullshit to yourselves, and grow up.

Paul smith, i would give richmond/4wd systems a call (depends if its a lockrite or lokka) and ask them, their information will be more accurate and probably contain less bullshit than this thread.

cam

just a tip when installing paul too, check the clearences match the instructions and replace the cross pin with a new one (about $30 from toyota new) these clearences and pin wear are critical to correct operation. i have fitted 2 lokka lockers and now 2 arb air lockes to my vehicle, my opinion is irrelevant but just check the clearences are right. (buy a feeler guage and vernier and learn how to read it properly.)

DR Frankenstine wrote:Simple test
With a rear lockrite installed drive forwards or backwards onto a rock/log high enough for the opposite wheel to come off the ground. Keeping the driving force applied (you could do this by driving up hill slightly and stalling on the log) get out and try to turn the wheel in the air by hand. According to Pauls explanation of how an auto locker works you should be able to. I will bet you can't..... :cool:

I know you can. Further, I know with my Lokka could spin the wheel forward with nothing more than my little finger. Physics must be different in your part of the world.

Not a matter of better or worse, that's an opinion, I leave those be. Is simply a matter of stopping the usual misinformation spread by the uninformed.

Paul

Paul Smith wrote:Just a quick question, I have brought a lock right to fit to my 4runner, just looked over the instructions, the kit comes with 2 collars for each side but in the instructions it does not show them being fitted,
by the looks of them if you fit them the pinion will not fit.
any info would be great.
I think they may not go in.
has anyone fitted one of these.
thanks

Sorry about the ranting and raving going on buddy.
Here is a link to Lockright that might help. Hope so
http://drivetrain.com/Lockrightinst.html