Outer Limits 4x4 Board

help with cooling a td42 turbo this belongs to a friend of mine and he has being lead down a very long garden path trying to keep it cool, it wasn't turbo to start with but he had it installed by well known brissy base turbo expert, no names, his problem is when he tows a trailer up hills, ranges etc... it boils day or night , but he can go off road and not have a drama only when engine pulling wieght (bike trailer with 3 bikes), long trips, up hills.
he has put new water pump, desert cooler 5 core, twin thermos (@ $800 for kit???). he removed factory fan to make room for thermos?

we are now looking at intercooling i am suggesting water to air, heat exchanger, but according to the turbo installer unnamed above it wont do bugger all, as its getting hot at speeds, this does not make sence to me, cold air = cooler motor surely. its not me thats need to be convinced its the owner of the car, but understandably he is optomistic as he has spent over $2000 all ready with no joy, and getting told a mixture of intercooling beliefs that contradict each other. any suggestions please.

ps. he has 6 inch lift with 33's if this helps

I think overfueling ,does selecting a lower gear and reving a bit harder help

Hidatid wrote:I think overfueling ,does selecting a lower gear and reving a bit harder help

It may also be under fueling as well, has it been dynod ?

Nick

CAn also be a problem with the engine itself. Is the cilinder head warped ? The cilinder head gasket is in good condition ?

i think it was dyno'd, as for engine its a safari import that had never being of road with 70,000ks when he got it, its now around 110,000ks and it hasn't being flogged, he drive it very easy, like a pussy to blunt. so the engine i would assume is in exelent order he is a prefectionist with maintance, its more of a show ponnie / tow car if you get my drift.
i have being told desert cooler have heaps of baffles in tank and some times these need to be removed to allow more flow has any one else heard this.
and does anyone else think the water to air intercooler is a waste of time.

get some pics of the engine bay and underneath it
what kinda turbo kit
YES intercool it an air to air one will suffient
is it loosing water from the cooling system?
is the cooling fluid white and have an oily feel to it
also i suggest getting a boost guage and a pyrometer to find out
what the engine/turbo is doin ... and drive accordingly


could be
faulty thermostat
faulty temp guage get an aftermarket one nissan ones are dodgy
radiator needs flushing
blockage in cooling system in the head or bock
not tuned properly ... to much fuel it'll heat up
not enough fuel it'll start acting like an oxy and melt pistons
make sure it still has the fan shroud on it as well this plays a big part


i just read it again ... piss the thermos off they're useless put the factory fan back in ... the desert cooler will be fine ... the more time the water spends in the radiator the cooler it will be ...
its the hi-flow ones that heat up cause the water doesn't get a change to stay in there long enough to loose heat

Tell your mate to go and See Waz a WM Motorsport at brendale. I had my GU tuned by a so called expert and it was getting hot. Waz tuned it no worries he does not use a dyno because your truck gets driven on the street not a dyno. Iam very happy with the work he done the things goes heaps better and does not get hot. His number is 32051951 he does a heap of work for some of the top winch challenge teams.

I just went through all this with my Turbo td 42 GQ.

Replaced radiator, rebuilt fan hub....

Any aircon or towing, bang right up to hot.

One day she went flat and wouldnt charge.... took it to a sparky, there was a bad earth on the manifold, fixed that and now no heat problems... ALL BECAUSE OF AN EARTH!!!

Get that checked... they are dodgy gauges...

Mate, they tend to heat up when turboed. I am assuming you've had the boost and fuelling checked already so personally I reckon you need a better radiator. I tried most of that stuff but nothing worked until I bought the best radiator available and had a custom fan shroud made. I got the radiator from Choice Radiators in Perth. Might be worth giving him a call, he should be in the phone book. What sort of turbo is it BTW?

not enough fuel it'll start acting like an oxy and melt pistons

Underfuelling a diesel will result in lost power - nothing more. A diesel engine operates in Excess Air mode, it will use the oxygen available to it. Diesels *always* run "lean" technically speaking. If an engine is not running lean then it is overfuelling.

One case where you will see piston melting "blow torch / oxy" action is when fuel is not atomized properly (streaming) in a direct injection diesel.

AJS wrote:Mate, they tend to heat up when turboed. I am assuming you've had the boost and fuelling checked already so personally I reckon you need a better radiator. I tried most of that stuff but nothing worked until I bought the best radiator available and had a custom fan shroud made. I got the radiator from Choice Radiators in Perth. Might be worth giving him a call, he should be in the phone book. What sort of turbo is it BTW?

i never had trouble with my turbo'd intercooled td42 it always ran cool

Yeah, mine was OK too until we headed west for acouple of years. It was a stinking hot day when we left Sydney and it started heating up straight away. We were heavily loaded but it had never caused problems before carrying the same load. I stopped at two radiator places on the way to Perth trying different fixes and both told me tales of woe about Turboed Nissans. We never had a problem after the new radiator, even with daytime temps of over 45 Deg in the Pilbara. Fuelling, compression, injectors, etc had all been checked at West End diesel before the trip.

John from Choice radiators in Perth is a bit of a wiz with cooling systems. He's sorted just about every chevy diesel in WA, & does somethig called an " External Bypass System " which is the way a cooling system should be IMHO. It fixes the problem with all factory cooling systems & that is that with an effeciantlly working cooling system the coolant, having been cooled by the radiator,enters the engine at a temperature as low as 5 degrees above ambient temp, ie, on a cool 15 degree day you may have 20 degree coolant entering an engine that may be operating at 80 degrees. This causes all sorts of problems from rough running to cracked / warped heads, internal corrosion, overheating.I'd give him a call, but, last time I went past he had a sign up "temporarily closed" so?