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What oil are you running in your R151?

Posted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 11:07 pm
by Goodsy
G'day guys
Just changed the oils. 75W90 in the trans and is a bitch to get into 1st
and a bit notchy allround.
Just wondering what you guys are running and if you've heard of this problem.

Box is behind a 1KZ-TE lux.

Any advice???

Thanks

Goodsy

Posted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 11:21 pm
by Sic Lux

Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 12:03 am
by Goodsy
Manual Transmission

CASTROL MULTITRAX
Manual transmission and differential fluid providing improved gear shift over a wide range of temperatures, particularly cold shift performance. Also suitable in secondary drive axles (front and rear) of 4WD's, for reduced drag and enhanced fuel efficiency, especially in around town service. SAE 75/90, API GL5

Whats in there now. 75W90 from first post. :roll:

Just asking it anyone else has had the same probs.


Goodsy

Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 4:11 pm
by 80's_delirious
I have used Castrol VMX-M API GL4 75W85 in my H151 (early 80series) for about 12 months now.

When I first bought my 80 I changed all oils as per Toyota specs (API GL4 or 5, 75W90). It very quickly became almost undriveable, to the point I thought I was up for a rebuild.

asked around and searched here, Lcool and other forums and the Castrol VMX-M kept getting the nod.

It has made a huge difference in my experience, its like driving a different car.

Apparently a lot of early 80s went back to dealers under warranty with gearbox issues, lighter gear oil was one of toyota's "fixes"

Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 6:40 pm
by Struth
I popped in the next thinnest grade down from manufactureres specs, it fixed the problem with it being hard to downshift from 4th to 3rd and 3rd to 2nd, she also doesn't pop out of 1st so often anymore.

I diubted it when I had it recommended to me, but it works a treat.

Cheers

Posted: Sun Oct 28, 2007 11:15 pm
by lshobie
I use synthetic 75w90, works better than dino oil when it gets cold - and it gets cold here in Ottawa.

Posted: Wed Nov 26, 2008 8:34 am
by Toy80Diesel
Just dragging up an old post which has recently become an issue for my cruiser!

I've had the fluids changed by my mechanic, but I'm not sure what he has used as he was going to fill up with whatever Burson Auto parts would recommend for my manual trans.

Since I got it back, it takes about 20 mins of driving to make it reasonable to drive. Before the fluid change, second gear downshifts were a little notchy, but if you are careful and clutched it all the way like you should, it was okay. You could do it without any hassles, except in the first 5 mins of driving when cold but thats normal isnt it? But now its much worse, so I'm going to find out what he has filled it with.

But I want to know it people are still happy with the Castrol Multitrax and/or VMX-M type fluid. Are your gearboxes still nice to drive?

I've noticed one is 75/85 and Multitrax is 75/90. Am I right in assuming this makes it slightly thicker when cold?

Should I go with the other recommendation of just taking out 500ml and adding regular auto trans fluid to thin it out a little?

Thanks

Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 11:20 am
by poppywhite
Toy80Diesel wrote:Just dragging up an old post which has recently become an issue for my cruiser!

I've had the fluids changed by my mechanic, but I'm not sure what he has used as he was going to fill up with whatever Burson Auto parts would recommend for my manual trans.

Since I got it back, it takes about 20 mins of driving to make it reasonable to drive. Before the fluid change, second gear downshifts were a little notchy, but if you are careful and clutched it all the way like you should, it was okay. You could do it without any hassles, except in the first 5 mins of driving when cold but thats normal isnt it? But now its much worse, so I'm going to find out what he has filled it with.

But I want to know it people are still happy with the Castrol Multitrax and/or VMX-M type fluid. Are your gearboxes still nice to drive?
I've noticed one is 75/85 and Multitrax is 75/90. Am I right in assuming this makes it slightly thicker when cold?

Should I go with the other recommendation of just taking out 500ml and adding regular auto trans fluid to thin it out a little?

Thanks
what did they use? did you ask?
I used castrol epx 80/90 no problems.:)
Take it back to the mechanic and he should change to diffent fluid for you, is worth more goodwill value to them than $40 oil.
Don't forget to tell us how it went since you named them
:cool:
Don't know about diluting with atf could end up expensive if not compatable. Is it worth the risk and inconvienence :)

Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 1:18 pm
by Toy80Diesel
poppywhite wrote:what did they use? did you ask?
I used castrol epx 80/90 no problems.:)
Take it back to the mechanic and he should change to diffent fluid for you, is worth more goodwill value to them than $40 oil.
Don't forget to tell us how it went since you named them
:cool:
Don't know about diluting with atf could end up expensive if not compatable. Is it worth the risk and inconvienence :)
I did find out, and it was 80/90 but I didn't ask which brand. My mechanics wasn't worried about changing it again, but I said I'll bring what I want in it. It has been changing better today or should I say this morning, as it's the cold starts that are worse. Once it warms up, it changes smoothly.

I'm not going to risk the ATF process, I'm going to try the castrol VMX recommended product just as their website describes. I'll post up some comments when its had a couple days of running in so it'll be late next week before I have some more comments.

Keep you posted.... hopefully with good results! :D

Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 10:16 am
by +dj_hansen+
FWIW, VMX-M made mine worse; horribly notchy into second and third when cold (box has 320k behind a tuned 1HDFT with safari IC), previous owner had Valvoline Dura-Gear 75/90 GL-5 and i never noticed this problem until i changed the oil. Will be going back to the above oil to hopefully alleviate the problem. The box is probably also due for a set of new syncros :cry:

VMX-M also only comes in a 4L container, which when you take into account spillage and not getting every last drop its not enough to do both gearbox and transfer :cry:

Posted: Fri Nov 28, 2008 6:53 pm
by ferrit
im running 90/140 gear oil in mine at the moment (oil leak on rear output- CBF'd pulling the transfer to fix it yet) because it seems to slow the leak down from 3L/fortnight to 1L/fortnight.

It never seems too heavy to shift either- its Fuchs Semi Synth tho, so that might be the key factor.

Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 7:23 am
by Toy80Diesel
Had the oil changed to VXM-M yesterday and it has made an improvement over the previous oil that was in there (80/90). It now changes like it used to, yes it is a little notchy but its done 358k's so I don't expect it to change like new. By the way this is in an 80 series so it has the H150F manual gearbox.

Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 10:17 am
by bj on roids
Does anyone think VMX-M would work in an older H55F? My brothers box is a little notchy in his BJ42, so I am thinking of getting him some VMX-M?!?!

Posted: Sat Dec 06, 2008 10:41 pm
by ozdave
bj on roids wrote:Does anyone think VMX-M would work in an older H55F? My brothers box is a little notchy in his BJ42, so I am thinking of getting him some VMX-M?!?!
Same question here too? Mines in a HZJ75.Anyone?

Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 12:18 am
by ozrunner
I honestly don't know why anyone would bother with any type of mineral oil when synthetic is available as it's chalk and cheese :D .

Posted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 9:50 am
by mac85
I put the VMX into my 60 series and I couldn't believe how notchy it became! I tried a couple of other grades and have come back to 80/90!

Posted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 4:51 pm
by ferrit
after the horrible noise that appeared in 1st, 2nd,3rd and 5th today, i suspect im now running a blend of 90w140 and counter shaft bearing :cry: