Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.

Making control arms, advice needed.

General Tech Talk

Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators

Post Reply
Posts: 435
Joined: Fri Jan 24, 2003 8:37 am
Location: Ferntree Gully, MELB

Making control arms, advice needed.

Post by LEXX »

I just about to start making a set of Control arms for the Jeep and wondering who you guys use to get all your jonny joints, rod ends etc from.

Any suggestions or comments on making control arms would be appreciated, do's and don'ts etc.

I have a lathe and all associated tools to do the job just never made control arms before and wondering if there is anything "special" I should be looking out for.
Last edited by LEXX on Fri Jan 16, 2004 11:26 am, edited 1 time in total.
Posts: 510
Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2003 9:42 pm
Location: melbourne

Post by modman »

maybe you could practice and make a set for me?? :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Posts: 1167
Joined: Mon Nov 04, 2002 11:50 pm
Location: Rockingham W A

Post by duncan »

there easy i have been using 1 inch shed 80 pipe and threading one end with a 1inch BSF thread so that you can adjust your castor and push the diffs forward the arms on the TJS are realy short compared to the other ones i have made for GQS but real easy of set the eyelets on the diff ends so that at full articulation the arms dont strike the bracket that the shock mounts to
Posts: 805
Joined: Thu Sep 18, 2003 6:07 pm
Location: lost

Post by fatassgq »

I have calbah orbit eyes in my truck and they are :cool:
They are the 70 or near that O.D but I think you can get smaller ones.
They are rebuildable and to my mind are the better looking ones around.
Believe it or not they where the cheapest ones I found when I got mine also.
Big balls sell something (for more $) that look the same and there are a few others with variations on the same (chaos or whatever they are called now, and then there are the yank ones too)

Cheers
Brian
Posts: 435
Joined: Fri Jan 24, 2003 8:37 am
Location: Ferntree Gully, MELB

Post by LEXX »

Thanx guys, seeing calbah is just up the road I'll look into it.

Just after thoughts on the ends, do I run joints at both ends, rubbers one end and jonny joints the other. Which end to I put the jonny joints, the diff ends I'm presuming but just want to make sure.

I know they seem like newbie questions but I wanna get some decent advice from guys who have done it and actually used it "in the field" and can steer me towards some decent sites, reading material etc?

Thanx in advance guys, this is coming along nicely. WHne I start next week be assured I'll post pics :)
Posts: 4065
Joined: Thu Oct 24, 2002 8:31 am
Location: ACT

Post by Wendle »

poly/rubber bushes won't restrict you travel at all if you are sticking to the standard geometry. cheaper and more street-friendly.
what is the diamteter of the bolts that hold the links in the jeep and how wide are the mounts?
Posts: 435
Joined: Fri Jan 24, 2003 8:37 am
Location: Ferntree Gully, MELB

Post by LEXX »

Yep sticking to the standard geometry. I've already got a set of long arms on so I will be making another set of them at the right length.

Really I'm interested in suppliers and what I shold be using on each end as it is a daily driver, I'll probably just grab stuff form Cheezy but always like to explore as many options as possible.
Posts: 4065
Joined: Thu Oct 24, 2002 8:31 am
Location: ACT

Post by Wendle »

if it is a daily driver, just use poly or rubber bushings. i have done the whole heim joint/rod end thing and they just don't last. the calbah type joints are probably better though.
for bushings just go to any suspension place armed with your ID, OD, and width, and see what they can offer you. then find a tube with the right ID to hold them.
Posts: 435
Joined: Fri Jan 24, 2003 8:37 am
Location: Ferntree Gully, MELB

Post by LEXX »

Wendle wrote:if it is a daily driver, just use poly or rubber bushings. i have done the whole heim joint/rod end thing and they just don't last. the calbah type joints are probably better though.
for bushings just go to any suspension place armed with your ID, OD, and width, and see what they can offer you. then find a tube with the right ID to hold them.


This was my first thoughts, try and get some bushings that are easily avaliable as Tera ones can be a bit pricey.

Thanx Wendel advice is much appreciated.
Posts: 4065
Joined: Thu Oct 24, 2002 8:31 am
Location: ACT

Post by Wendle »

also try ARB to see if they stock a replacement bush kit as well. the Old Man Emu stuff is pretty good quality and cheaper than alot of other brands.
Posts: 435
Joined: Fri Jan 24, 2003 8:37 am
Location: Ferntree Gully, MELB

Post by LEXX »

None of you other suspension guru's got anything to add.

I was contemplatingdoing an A frame rear, now this I do need some direction with, as in geometry etc.

ANYONE else beside the ever helpful Wendle?
Posts: 510
Joined: Tue Jul 22, 2003 9:42 pm
Location: melbourne

Post by modman »

do a search on here and pirate, read all weekend!!!
look at the thread from fatass 75 - removing rear leafs and adding coils.
get petersons 4x4 july 2003, a very helpful article indeed.
good luck.

david ;)
Posts: 58
Joined: Sun Apr 06, 2003 10:48 pm
Location: Anchorage,Ak

Post by ODD BALL »

LEXX wrote:None of you other suspension guru's got anything to add.

I was contemplatingdoing an A frame rear, now this I do need some direction with, as in geometry etc.

ANYONE else beside the ever helpful Wendle?
I have fabed the first Long arm XJ here in Alaska by grafting a TJ Rubicon Express kit to the front. The arms I run have rubber at the axle and the joint at the frame/unibody. We have a lot of long gravel crek beds here and some drop offs as high as 2" can be hit with a good amount of speed. I will never go back to a short arm! My mate 00TJ, is running a GM 14 bolt rear axle we just swaped in this past spring and atthe same time we triangulatednthe rear to ditch the rear Track bar. You shouild be able to do it with some research. Good luck& post some pics when you start.
It's easy to play, but hard to learn!
Posts: 1167
Joined: Mon Nov 04, 2002 11:50 pm
Location: Rockingham W A

Post by duncan »

OME dont do anything bar replacment for original bushes i tried a couple of suspension places her in WA came up with a couple of different types of bushes all depends on what you want to do for ease of fitting will be making some soon if you have any plans or could get some measurement of your long arms and mounting brackets could you please forward them to me as a couple of guys over here want to run this kind of set up
Post Reply

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest