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That looks very similar to my Camry one which is 70Amps with remote voltage sensing. The plug shape looks familiar too.
If it's got remote sensing make sure you run a separate wire up to the battery positive terminal for it. It doesn't have to be a very large wire as next to no current flows through it. That way it will compensate for voltage drops in the main charge lead from the high current flow.
Not saying Murcods wrong, but whilst you having it tested......
Terminal "C" is also used for charge rate reduction. If you connect it to the battery thinking its a remote sense connection then it will actually decrease the alternators capacity by a substantial amount.
Its controlled by the ecu ( not Feroza ) and when a large throttle opening is detected drops the alternators output to add just that little bit more passing power. Done mainly on small engines where even a couple of kw makes a difference.
If you have the skill you could tap into the full throttle part of the Feroza TPS, use a small relay and switch this terminal to get charge reduction.
You do need a proper alternator test bench as used by auto electricians to get a full idea of what the alternators capable of.
Good luck and let us know how it works out.
( usual disclaimers )
It seemed like a much better idea when I started it than it does now.
MightyMouse wrote:Its a very similar or identical Denso unit to what I have fitted ( Applause ) the wiring is identical so check my post for connections.....
Are you sure its only 60 Amp - for 5 amps why bother ?
I was not searching for bigger AMPS i was just looking to find an identical because mine died (3 times in one year) so istead of buying a new one 200 euro i think i found this one for 40 euro. I am no 100% if its a 60 or more i will tell you....
murcod wrote:Actually your stock Feroza one looks like it has remote sensing.
It's got three wires:
Warning light
Ignition
?remote sensing?
I think mine only had two? I wonder if my old alternator had the capability but the early Ferozas never used it?
The feroza plug alternator has only 2 wires on it the third one never excist.
The Toyota alternator has on it the third wire.
Now i have anther silly problem and i cant finish my work the bolt you see on the picture (is not from my car that picture) i have done everything to take off and i broke two keys.
I am waiting a bolt expert to come with his tools to take off so i can adjust the angle of the alternator with the pulley.
Everything is done battery is charging alternator working 100%. Only one problem the Battery Light and the Brake line didnot turned off maybe a problem from a sensor? Any ideas because at night i cant drive with that red light on my face.
The battery light will be related to the alternator change. From memory the alternator should have had the three terminals labeled - something like "L" for the dash battery warning light connection, "I" or "IG" for an ignition on signal and "S" for the remote sensing?
It could also be a case that you haven't hooked up the "S" sense wire to anything and the alternator regulator is shutting down and not outputting any voltage/ current?
Or you might have a set up like Mighty Mouse suggested and need to do something with that wire to get it charging? Mine is definitely remote sensing.
My Feroza alternator has only GI and L. Let me see now the 3 wire i didnt use it at all what should i do? connect it dirrectly with the + of the battery or with one of the 2 wires that the alternator is connected?
Last edited by ferozamaniac on Thu Nov 08, 2007 9:42 pm, edited 1 time in total.
From my little electrical knowledge i think that the S (sensor) wire should be connected together with the L wire (the L wires goes do the charging fault lamp) see picture bellow. Will that work? I will try to look out a manual for the Toyota Carina Alternator to see how the diagram works out.
Thank you Murcod but an hour ago i found out that the S should be placed to the + of the battery and the Battery Fault signal is OFF . But the LINK is very helpfull thank you. Oh and also the Voltage operator that we have inside the Feroza its much more stable than ever (even when i turn on lights woofer radio carpc) i am so happy now
ferozamaniac wrote:Thank you Murcod but an hour ago i found out that the S should be placed to the + of the battery and the Battery Fault signal is OFF .
That's what I said right up near the top of the thread and I think in one of the PM's as well.
Make sure you put a fuse in the sense wire up at the battery terminal - 5 Amps will be plenty big enough. Did you keep the existing wiring from the alternator charging output (the heavy duty bolt connection) to the battery? It's got a fusible link in it up near the battery- very important to keep that there as well.
. But the LINK is very helpfull thank you. Oh and also the Voltage operator that we have inside the Feroza its much more stable than ever (even when i turn on lights woofer radio carpc) i am so happy now 
That's what I said right up near the top of the thread and I think in one of the PM's as well.
