Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hey All

Well friday night mum killed her 1HDT, we have since bought her 96 Multi-Valve (1HD-FT) GXL Auto. As she wanted another 80 series!

So the question is should we get another 1hd-t for her old car and sell it complete, or strip it and part it out. All panels are in good nic, the paint is buggered on the bonnet and roof.

Your views would be great.

Cheers Troy

How many kms on the 1hd-t 80, auto or manual, what wheels etc may affect the price.

How much did you buy the 80 multi valve for?
Thats what my wife wants.

The 1HDT 80 has/had 360 000k, everything in the front axel housing has been rebuilt. Gearbox never made a crunch (unless you were tryna race it) no noises from any of the drivline components, used to drive beautiful. Stocko wheels, everything is stock. interior is in excellent condition.

we are just gonna strip it and part it out!

We picked the multi-valve up for $25,000. Probly paid to much but under the circumstances didnt really care! It has 230k on the clock, Brakes completely re-done, 3" zuast, Front mount intercooler, 10psi boost, bit more fuel, the Auto Trans has just been completely rebuilt. It is in beautiful condition!!! Really happy.

Troy
25k is not too bad, there are not many around still....your hdt would better be turned into a 1hz with turbo and sold as a diesel manual....that would cost 3k max and you would still have a motor left over to part.
The cruiser would then be worth 15k ish....

dow50r wrote:Troy
25k is not too bad, there are not many around still....your hdt would better be turned into a 1hz with turbo and sold as a diesel manual....that would cost 3k max and you would still have a motor left over to part.
The cruiser would then be worth 15k ish....

The 96 cruiser we bought is imaculate, its got a tonne of gurnt even behind the auto!!!! Does a 1HZ bolt straight up where the 1HDT left off??? what do you have to do about changing engine numbers and manufacturers plates etc???

mate i would be keen on buying the complete vehicle if its a decent price.

if your keen can you send me a pm, not too far from your mum i think im in eudlo about 10 mins from the zoo. will not have power on tomorrow morn until the arvo so ill jump on tomorrow night.

cheers mark

Hey all, i apologise for not yet replying to peoples PM's ive had about 7 people seriously enquiring today about buying mums car (minus motor)

Mum spoke to the insurance company today (when insuring the new one) they said they want to sent a assesor out to have a look as it might be covered by insurance because it was technically a fire very much doubt it, so will reply to PM's in next couple days

Oh here are some pictures http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/vi ... 9&start=30

Troy

vSAHARAx wrote:T... 3" zuast, Front mount intercooler, 10psi boost, bit more fuel, the Auto Trans has just been completely rebuilt. It is in beautiful condition!!!.

factory boost on 1HD-FT is 12 - 13psi, so if it's only making 10, either something is very wrong, or it has plenty of space for the wick to be turned up. factory turbo will handle 15psi with reasonable turbo efficiency. the overboost light will come on around 16.

dumbdunce wrote:

vSAHARAx wrote:T... 3" zuast, Front mount intercooler, 10psi boost, bit more fuel, the Auto Trans has just been completely rebuilt. It is in beautiful condition!!!.

factory boost on 1HD-FT is 12 - 13psi, so if it's only making 10, either something is very wrong, or it has plenty of space for the wick to be turned up. factory turbo will handle 15psi with reasonable turbo efficiency. the overboost light will come on around 16.

Heya DD

What is the factory boost on a 1-HDT?

Holy sh!t, ok he said he thought it was making 10-11 psi, he had all the boost setting and pump tweaks done for him. In that case will be turning it down asap!!! the light only comes on say when we are on the highway with cruise set to around 115km/h and you hit a hill, the cruise control automatically wants to get the coal shovel working harder and thats when the light comes on.

Will get a boost gauge and turn the boost down a bit, dont wanna kill it!!! Also with 230 000k on the clock what should be looked at mechanically??? or are they a pretty hardy motor?

Cheers Troy

pridhac wrote:

dumbdunce wrote:

vSAHARAx wrote:T... 3" zuast, Front mount intercooler, 10psi boost, bit more fuel, the Auto Trans has just been completely rebuilt. It is in beautiful condition!!!.

factory boost on 1HD-FT is 12 - 13psi, so if it's only making 10, either something is very wrong, or it has plenty of space for the wick to be turned up. factory turbo will handle 15psi with reasonable turbo efficiency. the overboost light will come on around 16.

Heya DD

What is the factory boost on a 1-HDT?

8 - 9 psi

vSAHARAx wrote: Holy sh!t, ok he said he thought it was making 10-11 psi, he had all the boost setting and pump tweaks done for him. In that case will be turning it down asap!!! the light only comes on say when we are on the highway with cruise set to around 115km/h and you hit a hill, the cruise control automatically wants to get the coal shovel working harder and thats when the light comes on.

Will get a boost gauge and turn the boost down a bit, dont wanna kill it!!! Also with 230 000k on the clock what should be looked at mechanically??? or are they a pretty hardy motor?

Cheers Troy

just touching 16 with an intercooler is probably ok. exhaust temp gauge is more important than boost, the light tells you whether boost is too high.

frequent (every 25,000km) tappet adjustments are a good idea. it's also a good idea to have someone who knows what they're doing to do it. if you don't do it, the gap may open up and fatigue the head off a valve. a dropped valve is bad, mmkay. if someone does it wrong, the valve bridges and/or guides get bent/broken, this is also bad. big ends are good insurance but they have been done. injector testing may also be worthwhile if you are unsure of the service history, but it is a big dollar item to test as all the valve rockers and bridges have to come out so you can get at the injectors.

it is (nearly) impossible to do a compression test, you can park it on a hill and put it in 2nd gear and see if and how fast it walks away (engine off, brakes off) as a very rough guesstimate, at those sort of km the compression should be good. smooth idle is also indicative of good, even compression and good injector condition.

Just a quick question in relation the reply by Dumbdunce, is every toyota 6 cylinder diesel prone to big end bearing failure and should they be replace routinely on every model (including 2H?)

Cheers,

foster_the_fat wrote:Just a quick question in relation the reply by Dumbdunce, is every toyota 6 cylinder diesel prone to big end bearing failure and should they be replace routinely on every model (including 2H?)

Cheers,

the short answer is no. the early 1HD-T motors are the worse culprits, due to a combination of direct injection, a slightly suspect bearing material, and incorrect lubricant selection. the 2H with moderate power and indirect injection, coupled with lead-based bearing material, is far less susceptible to failure. that's not to say it can't happen, and they can be changed with the engine in the vehicle. as a bonus, on the 2H you can also change the bottom main caps without removing the engine from the vehicle, which you cannot do with a 1HD or 1HZ.

Thanks for the info Dumbdunce, I did not realise that direct vs indirect made a difference. Sorry for diverting the thread.

Hey all, well mums car is up for sale in the "Vehicles for sale" section. WANT IT GONNNEEEE!!!

Troy