Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Howdy,

I have an 84 Hilux with a VN EFI V6 in it. I 4wd all the time but no jack about fixing stuff when it breaks.

I have a pretty loud clicking noise coming from the front end, not only when turning but when going in a straight line too. I've been told be a few people that its probably my CV's, and should be cheap to fix - obviously only happens when in 4wd.

Where's a good place in Sydney (Penrith) to get this done, and roughly how much would I be looking at (for new CV's fiited both sides)?

If its in a straight line it sounds more like the double cardain joint on the front shaft.

i had loud clickcking noise from front of my hilux, turned ot out to be wear in splines in slip joint. quoted $260 relplacement at a wreckers, but ended up selling as is

CV's 95% of the time will normally only click when turned slightly.

As The others have suggested check out your front shaft for wear first!

If it is a CV, it is a really simple process to do it yourself and you would probably save yourself a couple hundred $$$$ (also if you going to be wheeling the LUX a fair bit it is advisable that you can fix it on the trail).

There are a few guys on here that can change out a busted CV in 15 - 20 minutes! (some even less).

If it is a CV then jump back on here and we can take you threw step by step on how to do it!!!!!!

i would like to know how to do it urslef as i think mine are on there way out..clicking on almost full lock !!!how much u lookin at to buy them urslef new?

Remove the bolts and the seals around the back of the swivel housing
take hub off and then remove the C clip that is on the end of the axle
take off the top steering arm off the swivel.
Lossen the bottom foru bolts on the swivel king pin.
Then simply remove the whole rotor/caliper,swivel housing in one piece. To do this you need to slightly lift and pull the top out wards, as it comes off over the top you need to go down wards with it so that the bottom king pin and bearing comes out of its hole/race.
Once you have this bit off just sit it to the side on top of the wheel, you don`t have to touch the wheel bearing or the brakes this way. Then you are left with the CV hanging out of the housing.

This way is the quickest and easiest if you have done it before.

Guts wrote:This way is the quickest and easiest if you have done it before.

but can b a real pain in the arse coz its heavy as shit

hypolux wrote:

Guts wrote:This way is the quickest and easiest if you have done it before.

but can b a real pain in the arse coz its heavy as shit

Only when you are trying to put it back on and the farken splines aren`t lining up

Guts wrote:

hypolux wrote:

Guts wrote:This way is the quickest and easiest if you have done it before.

but can b a real pain in the arse coz its heavy as shit

Only when you are trying to put it back on and the farken splines aren`t lining up

exactly

hypolux wrote:

Guts wrote:This way is the quickest and easiest if you have done it before.

but can b a real pain in the arse coz its heavy as shit

I ended up lying on the ground in my driveway after trying this method first time. My back made a bigger bang than any cv ever has

Couldn't bend my back for the rest of the night.

Lesson - be ready cos it's probably 25 or more kilos in weight.

Yes i have to agree with Guts that is the fastest way to do it! Ruff always does it that way!

I do it the other way, i know its not as fast but its just the way i like to do it and like anything once you do it 100 times its hard to change!

Heres how i do it!

1. Remove tyre.
2. Remove 10mm bolts from locking hub.
3. Remove Circlip from the end of the birfield
4. Remove the 12mm Nuts and use a Brass drift and knock out the cone locks. (the rest of the free wheeling hub will come off)
5. Undo the two 17mm Bolts on the back of the Brake caliper and slide the caliper of the disk.
6. Using a 54mm socket ( or as i do a Big screw Driver and a hammer) remove the two locking nuts from the Stub axle. (Note, there is a flat washer that has little tabs that will be bent over onto the nuts, this stops them from working loose, you need to unfold the tab before you can undo the nuts)
7. Remove the whole hub (the front bearing is not retained, so don't let it drop in the dirt, the rear bearing is retained and will not fall out)
8. Undo the 14mm bolts that hold the Stub axle on (the disk brake cover will also fall away when you undo these bolts)
9.You will then see the Birfield (the birfield has two flats that are machined on them, these need to be rotated around until they are at the top and the bottom) when the two flats are lined up, the birfield with a bit of help will come straight out.
10. Replace the Busted or worn out Cv with a new or good secondhand one ( or if funds permits a Longfield). You only need to replace the CV the AXLE will still be ok. To remove the CV from the axle use a piece of pipe, slide the axle into the pipe and bang it on the ground. The cv will pop off, there is a sping clip that usually needs to be replaced when you remove the CV from the axle.
11. Instilation is the opposite. Just pack the CV with grease and put it all back together.

Make sure when you do the 54mm nuts back up that you don't overtighten them!

Tools required.
10mm socket
12mm socket
14mm socket
17mm socket
Socket wrench
Circlip pliers
54mm socket (or big screwdriver and hammer)
Brass drift (to tap the ends of the 8mm studs to get the cone locks out)

By the way, if you do replace your CV's when they are clicking, don't throw them away. Put them under you seat or in the rig somewhere as a spare!

I hope that all makes sense!

When doing the 54mm locking nuts and tabs back up is there a sure fire way of how tight to do them?

Been told put first locking tab on, then do up locking nut till its firm, spin disk a couple of times and back off half a turn, then put second locking tab on.

Any others way of knowing?

ToNkA wrote:When doing the 54mm locking nuts and tabs back up is there a sure fire way of how tight to do them?

Been told put first locking tab on, then do up locking nut till its firm, spin disk a couple of times and back off half a turn, then put second locking tab on.

Any others way of knowing?

Yeah thats how i do it!

Also if your tricky (like me ) and you are pulling the front apart every second weekend, here is another little trick that i use!

When you take of the first locking ring and you have knocked that tab flat, just remove the tab washer without flattening out the other locking tab. Put a mark on the nut thats on there (a scratch from a screwdriver is enough) and then accurately count how many turns till it comes off the stub (Just as its about to come OFF the stub MARK it again with 2 scratches, the point i use as a constant on the stub axle is the little groove at the top) this allows you a accurate starting point!

When you put it all back together, make sure that the 2 scrathes line up with the little groove (or your reference point) and then count how many turns that is needed. When you get to the amount of turns (exactly) the locking tab (with the tab still bent) should just slot straight in).

It also pays to check it by rotating the disk a few times!

POS wrote:Yes i have to agree with Guts that is the fastest way to do it! Ruff always does it that way!

I do it the other way, i know its not as fast but its just the way i like to do it and like anything once you do it 100 times its hard to change!

Heres how i do it!

1. Remove tyre.
2. Remove 10mm bolts from locking hub.
3. Remove Circlip from the end of the birfield
4. Remove the 12mm Nuts and use a Brass drift and knock out the cone locks. (the rest of the free wheeling hub will come off)
5. Undo the two 17mm Bolts on the back of the Brake caliper and slide the caliper of the disk.
6. Using a 54mm socket ( or as i do a Big screw Driver and a hammer) remove the two locking nuts from the Stub axle. (Note, there is a flat washer that has little tabs that will be bent over onto the nuts, this stops them from working loose, you need to unfold the tab before you can undo the nuts)
7. Remove the whole hub (the front bearing is not retained, so don't let it drop in the dirt, the rear bearing is retained and will not fall out)
8. Undo the 14mm bolts that hold the Stub axle on (the disk brake cover will also fall away when you undo these bolts)
9.You will then see the Birfield (the birfield has two flats that are machined on them, these need to be rotated around until they are at the top and the bottom) when the two flats are lined up, the birfield with a bit of help will come straight out.
10. Replace the Busted or worn out Cv with a new or good secondhand one ( or if funds permits a Longfield). You only need to replace the CV the AXLE will still be ok. To remove the CV from the axle use a piece of pipe, slide the axle into the pipe and bang it on the ground. The cv will pop off, there is a sping clip that usually needs to be replaced when you remove the CV from the axle.
11. Instilation is the opposite. Just pack the CV with grease and put it all back together.

Make sure when you do the 54mm nuts back up that you don't overtighten them!

Tools required.
10mm socket
12mm socket
14mm socket
17mm socket
Socket wrench
Circlip pliers
54mm socket (or big screwdriver and hammer)
Brass drift (to tap the ends of the 8mm studs to get the cone locks out)

By the way, if you do replace your CV's when they are clicking, don't throw them away. Put them under you seat or in the rig somewhere as a spare!

I hope that all makes sense!

I do mine the same way, I have a few points to add:

0. When you jack the car up, make sure the broken side is facing up hill (if possible) or jack the front up high enough that the oil is pooled to the other side of the housing, preventing an exxon all over yourself and your tools/work area.

4. leave the nuts on the hub studs, this prevents the cone washers from flying off into oblivion when you hit the locking hub body with the brass drift.

5. Remove the 2 clips on the brake hose, this will allow the backing plate to move around a bit more freely independent of the caliper. Next time you have the grinder out and have the brakes apart or the wheel off, cut a small notch to allow the steel line to pass through the brake bracket on the backing plate.


Don't forget to carry around some spare inner axle seals, they deform sometimes as the axle deflects when the cv busts. Use a socket of the same size and drive it in square, or you can make up a driver from some correct sized pvc pipe (I've got some pics around here somewhere).


I like to use a torque wrench to set the bearings, same method as described above, tighten first lock nut, spin the rotor a few times both ways to seat the bearing, tighten again, spin rotor, then back off and torque to 20ft/lbs, on with locking washer, then last lock nut torque to 30ft/lbs.


Only problem I have found with removing the whole rotor/hub/knuckle assembly is you may destroy the top knuckle bearing cage if the bearing won't come off the spigot on the steering arm, and the preload kingpin shims may get damaged when prying out the steering arm.

Yes sorry,

POINT 5 that Area 54 picked out does make it slightly easier.

Been a comp Rig i have a lot of parts left of to make things easier to fix, the 2 clips is one of those things. If its a Daily Driver or is driven on the streets always put the clips back in!

Also the torque wrench is the "Correct" way of doing the bearings!

Here is the go for a B2600/Courier with thanks to some guys from a now defunct forum...

Support 4b on stands by the frame (not the suspension). Take off the wheel then the break caliper and leaving it connected, support it out of the way (coat hanger or bungee cord is goog for this). Then jack up the lower control arm of the suspension a little keeping the front suspension from hitting the bottom bump stop.

Pull the hub off (about 8 bolts holding it ). Behind the hub on the axle shaft there will be a C clip that you need to take out (replacing this with clip with a snap ring makes it easier to get off next time). Take off the 3 bolts holding the upper ball joint onto the upper control arm so the ball joint stays on the spindle (was easier) and push the upper controle arm up out of the way. The stub shaft will almost come out of the spindle at this point. On the lower control arm there is a single bolt and nut running horizontaly under the spindle that once removed you can lift the spindle off the lower ball joint.

Warning Will Robertson.... once you removed the upper control arm ball joint bolts, you removed the only bump stop for downward suspension travel by the lower arm (its connected to the torsion bar). If the jack holding the suspension up is moved, you may have to re-set your torsion bars to try and get everything connected (not to mention the lower arm will probably go back around under the 4b).

Now the only thing holding the spindle/axle up is you and the tie rod end. Extend the spindle out away from the 4b enough to get the stub shaft free (it should slide out easily as only the C clip held it in). Turning the steering wheel to the direction you are working on will give you more length. Once the shaft is free, move it the spindle out of the way. Give a quick yank on the long shaft between the innner and outer stub shafts and the whole stub shaft should just pull out of the front differential. If the stub shaft is stuck DONT pry close to where it enters the differential as you WILL damage the seal. If you must pry use blocks on the diff housing to pry against and pry on the outer ring of the inner stub axle where the boot clamp is.

Once the shaft is out, replacing it (or a new one) back in is just as easy but be careful when putting the stub shaft back into the spindle/Wheel bearing as there is a seal on the back side where it enters that you cant see unless your looking for it. If you stuff this, you'll be replacing a wheel bearing sooner than you like.

Be sure your spindle sits back onto the lower ball joint completly before you put the bolt in or you'll be retorquing those torsion bars as the lower arms come off the spindle (hopefully not while driving).

The axle is connected by a clip under the hub on one end and just pulls out of the diff housing on the other. The manual describes a different way of removing these (so I am told) but this way you wont have to re-torque wheel bearings or get a wheel alignment.

The biggest hassle is removing the taper neck bolts holding the hub cover on if you still have auto hubs.

When I did the Raider for the first time, the drivers side took 25min. The passanger side took 90min thanks to a couple of really stubbon nuts\bolts.

OK, busted a CV on passenger side on the weekend so am now in middle of replacing it. everything is now off the car, read manual/spoke to neighbour, pulled balls of of CV joint so could put clip on end of inner axle shaft.

how the phark to i get the balls back in, got 3 in so far (in a row) but can't get anymore to go. what do i need to do?



Cheers
Lance


ps. car is MWB cruiser, so same as 75 series. should i have not worried about clip for inner axle (car is driven on road but mainly off road)

Who makes all these Hilux CVs? I'm gonna buy shares, then come along and egg you guys on!

Scott

brad84hilux wrote: Where's a good place in Sydney (Penrith) to get this done, and roughly how much would I be looking at (for new CV's fiited both sides)?

If your still not sure, come down to Hi Tech 4x4 in Penrith tommorrow, as they're having an open workshop display/day. The guys are really helpfull, i'll be there to. 8 Production Place (off Batt St) Penrith.

-Nemesis- wrote:

brad84hilux wrote: Where's a good place in Sydney (Penrith) to get this done, and roughly how much would I be looking at (for new CV's fiited both sides)?

If your still not sure, come down to Hi Tech 4x4 in Penrith tommorrow, as they're having an open workshop display/day. The guys are really helpfull, i'll be there to. 8 Production Place (off Batt St) Penrith.

Look at the date. Brad posted this nearly 2 years ago

Hmm some grave diggin went on then....................

Bluey wrote:OK, busted a CV on passenger side on the weekend so am now in middle of replacing it. everything is now off the car, read manual/spoke to neighbour, pulled balls of of CV joint so could put clip on end of inner axle shaft.

how the phark to i get the balls back in, got 3 in so far (in a row) but can't get anymore to go. what do i need to do?

Cheers
Lance

about clip for inner axle (car is driven on road but mainly off road)

If you are trying yo get the balls in with the axle in you may not be able to tilt the inner race and cage on an angle enough .

Remove the axle first,
replace all the balls,
then fit the thin wire snap ring to the axle end and push into the inner race.

Here is a tip for greasing the C V
Fill as much grease as possible into the hole where you will push the axle first.
As the axle is pushed home the grease will be squeesed back past the balls

This is a seriously fantastic thread!! I have an 02 hilux and it has unfortunately got a leaking drivers side axle seal (we think).

After seeing all the great step by step replys I was wondering if anyone can help me out with the steps I should take to remove the axle/cv and make sure the cv doesnt come apart. Ive got alot of experience playing with my motors/gearbox's but ive never had a driveline failure so this is all new to me!

Cheers fellas, appreciate any help you can offer.

Brad

Rb25sil80 wrote:This is a seriously fantastic thread!! I have an 02 hilux and it has unfortunately got a leaking drivers side axle seal (we think).

After seeing all the great step by step replys I was wondering if anyone can help me out with the steps I should take to remove the axle/cv and make sure the cv doesnt come apart. Ive got alot of experience playing with my motors/gearbox's but ive never had a driveline failure so this is all new to me!

Cheers fellas, appreciate any help you can offer.

Brad

All those instructions refer to solid axle hilux front ends. Yours is IFS so I'd keep looking for some better rebuild instructions.

Cheers beebee, I realise that. Thats what I was hoping to get with my reply

No point starting a new thread just because my rigs a different year, better off keeping it all together. Hell theres even mazda stuff in this thread, no reason why there can be IFS stuff too !

I found this site that shows how to replace a cv on 3rd Generation 4Runners and Tacomas but they have a coil front end as opposed to torsion bars. Thus im not sure how much of it is relevent, it all seems quite similar but i'd rather be 100% sure.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/cv_axle/

epic grave dig hahaha

pulling my axle out to replace a bent housing, stripped the short side down to the knuckle, went to pull the axle and the cv came but not the inner axle,

any one got some tricks of the trade to get it out?

Use the force.

Failing that, turn it sideways and use gravity. You could also fuse a 3.2mm or 4mm arc welding rod to the end and pull it out with multigrips.

think the force might be the go, not real keen on fusing shit to a perfectly good longfield,

was thinking of trying a circlip in the grove and multi grips, because at the moment my main trouble is getting a grip of the inner axle to reef it out

Could you pull the long side out, and push something through from that end, to try and push the short side out??

WINNAR

TRIED TRUE METHOD FOR REMOVING INNER AXLES

Tools required
Flat head screw driver
bent nose circlip pliers
multigrips/vise grips


after stripping down your FWH and hubs you go to pull the axles out but come away with only the CV leaving the inner axle behind

1. grab the circlip from the FWH tear down. and using a screw driver and circlip pliers, insert it into the groove in the inner axle

2. using the multigrips, grip the cirlcip(very hard or it slips and you almost wear them in the face) and pull while jiggling it in the seal, may require a fair amout of force to pop it out

3. celebrate winning with a cold beer