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mid-mounted winch
Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 6:08 am
by 90pickup
Has someone pics of mid- mounted winches? mainly looking for higmount, but also bar, rope guides...thanks
Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 4:33 pm
by Dee
GO JIMNY on this site has a high mount mounted "in" the rear floor of his zuk. maybe PM him, he might swing you a pic or two...
Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 4:41 pm
by chops_Drover
Would be great if he posted the pick here.
Would be interested to see how he has done it.
Posted: Wed Nov 14, 2007 9:33 pm
by Nelso
I'm curious to know if a mid mounted winch has any issues with how it pulls the car (ie. if it wants to twist the car around or if it digs in at the front etc.) or if you can't notice the difference.
Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 4:40 am
by 90pickup
Hmm...so not just me asking for more infos. Bring on the pics then!
Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 10:03 am
by mistaboz
Nelso wrote:I'm curious to know if a mid mounted winch has any issues with how it pulls the car (ie. if it wants to twist the car around or if it digs in at the front etc.) or if you can't notice the difference.
Can't see it making that much of a difference as you still have the fairlead at the front. Or in some cases just a smallish hole for the winch cable to come out of.
So in effect any angle you are winching at should be the same regardless of wether or not it's front mount or mid mount.
I'm happy to be corrected on this though.
Cheers Paul
Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 10:17 am
by GQ TROL
Mid-mounting the winch allows you to place the winch at almost any height on the chassis (within reason), but still have the fairlead relatively low at the front. Low fairlead will help pull the nose of the truck up and over the obstacle. High fairlead will just want to pull the truck through the obstacle.
Having the closest rope guide approx 2-3 feet from the winch allows the rope to spool on evenly and maximises the drum capacity.
Sucks when you break a rope in a mud-hole though.
Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 10:45 am
by hammey
it also allows you to run the rope backwards to a pully ( that can then be used as a double line pull rear winch at no extra cost
) then through to the front.
without the winch up front you free up the room to run a ''real'' hyd pump off the crank shaft then hydrostatic drive the winch motor.
C'mon Power Ball.....
Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 10:54 am
by chops_Drover
Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 1:06 pm
by GQ Bear
GQ TROL wrote:Mid-mounting the winch allows you to place the winch at almost any height on the chassis (within reason), but still have the fairlead relatively low at the front. Low fairlead will help pull the nose of the truck up and over the obstacle. High fairlead will just want to pull the truck through the obstacle.
Having the closest rope guide approx 2-3 feet from the winch allows the rope to spool on evenly and maximises the drum capacity.
Sucks when you break a rope in a mud-hole though.
You could run a lead sheave on a shaft to spool cable evenly on drum.
Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 2:30 pm
by GQ TROL
GQ Bear wrote:GQ TROL wrote:Mid-mounting the winch allows you to place the winch at almost any height on the chassis (within reason), but still have the fairlead relatively low at the front. Low fairlead will help pull the nose of the truck up and over the obstacle. High fairlead will just want to pull the truck through the obstacle.
Having the closest rope guide approx 2-3 feet from the winch allows the rope to spool on evenly and maximises the drum capacity.
Sucks when you break a rope in a mud-hole though.
You could run a lead sheave on a shaft to spool cable evenly on drum.
Umm, you're gonna have to dumb it down a bit further for me fella....lead sheave? Pics?
Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 2:41 pm
by shorty_f0rty
Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 3:07 pm
by chops_Drover
Pics didn't work for me
Good write up, but a picture says 1000 words
Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 9:20 pm
by turps
I am interested to hear what people would think about midmounting a PTO winch on a GQ. With running the cable around the back and down the Drivers Side. As I would like to run synthetic cable. And dont like it that close to the exhuast. If I was to go straight forwards.
I am sure I seen a GU ute at the 06 OBC with this setup. But is the std chassi strong enough. As I would imagine there would be a slight twisting force.
Also it would be planned so that its possible to do dbl line pulls backwards.
Another thing. How much lose would there be with all those bends?
Posted: Thu Nov 15, 2007 10:38 pm
by frp88
I love it
is it easy to change sharft in the transfer
Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 3:17 am
by GQ TROL
To mid-mount a PTO on a GQ is no great shakes. A few comp trucks over here have been running it for a while. Gives you nice and clean approach angles on the front.
Taking the rope down driver's side is a drama though. Only way to do that is to flip the winch upside-down to place the winch gearbox to the left of centre of the chassis rails (PTO output is off the LH side of the gearbox). Flipping the winch has the potential of starving the worm gear and wheel of oil....which results in winch failure.
Better to take rope down passengers side, through a length of tube through the cab, as this allows you to keep the winch the right way up. Mounts between main driveshaft and LH chassis rail. Reverse the PTO output on the gearbox to point backwards.
Depending on how you mount it, you may need to use a hooped cross-member (to clear driveshaft) from one chassis rail to the other, with a good amount of bracing forward.
Wormy had a mid-mounted PTO at 06 OBC, but I doubt he would have needed to go through the cab with the rope.
Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 10:31 am
by GQ Bear
GQ TROL wrote:GQ Bear wrote:GQ TROL wrote:Mid-mounting the winch allows you to place the winch at almost any height on the chassis (within reason), but still have the fairlead relatively low at the front. Low fairlead will help pull the nose of the truck up and over the obstacle. High fairlead will just want to pull the truck through the obstacle.
Having the closest rope guide approx 2-3 feet from the winch allows the rope to spool on evenly and maximises the drum capacity.
Sucks when you break a rope in a mud-hole though.
You could run a lead sheave on a shaft to spool cable evenly on drum.
Umm, you're gonna have to dumb it down a bit further for me fella....lead sheave? Pics?
Have a look at the drum on a mobile crane, etc. Before the drum is a lead sheave which the rope passes. This sheave is on a shaft so it slides left when feeding onto the left side of the drum and then slides right to feed the next layer towards the right side and so on. Neatly wound drum every time.
Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 6:59 pm
by Remydog05
Any Photos of the Jimny??
Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 10:40 pm
by turps
GQ TROL wrote:To mid-mount a PTO on a GQ is no great shakes. A few comp trucks over here have been running it for a while. Gives you nice and clean approach angles on the front.
Taking the rope down driver's side is a drama though. Only way to do that is to flip the winch upside-down to place the winch gearbox to the left of centre of the chassis rails (PTO output is off the LH side of the gearbox). Flipping the winch has the potential of starving the worm gear and wheel of oil....which results in winch failure.
Better to take rope down passengers side, through a length of tube through the cab, as this allows you to keep the winch the right way up. Mounts between main driveshaft and LH chassis rail. Reverse the PTO output on the gearbox to point backwards.
Depending on how you mount it, you may need to use a hooped cross-member (to clear driveshaft) from one chassis rail to the other, with a good amount of bracing forward.
Wormy had a mid-mounted PTO at 06 OBC, but I doubt he would have needed to go through the cab with the rope.
I really must get my winch out of the box and have a look at it.
Reason why I was thinking of running the cable around the back of the car and forwards along the drivers side. Is that I am building an Extra cab. And wasnt sure if I could get it all low enough for the Cable to clear the cab enough to wind on neatly. Where as the shaft I could probably mount a CV or something on it to get a bigger angle.
Posted: Sat Nov 17, 2007 1:08 pm
by GQ TROL
Sorry Turps, I mis-read your original post. I didn't realise you were intending to run the rope around the back.
The GU you're thinking about is Roger McKay's. But it was just the elec backup that faces backwards, does a loop and exits out the front.
Posted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 6:43 pm
by turps
GQ TROL wrote:Sorry Turps, I mis-read your original post. I didn't realise you were intending to run the rope around the back.
The GU you're thinking about is Roger McKay's. But it was just the elec backup that faces backwards, does a loop and exits out the front.
Yep that the one I was thinking off. That pto worked well. As it dragged both Rogers GU and Sandy thru all that mud. I remembered the Elec in the back as a spare. But the way it ran around the back I liked. Just not sure how the chassi/tray will take all the forces. The guy fabing my ute isnt real keen.
Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 1:45 pm
by nzdarin
There is no need to feed the rope onto the drum with a mid mount. My first guide is about 1000mm from the winch and it feeds on perfect for the entire 50m of rope. I had a new piece of Dynamica on yesterday and Only had one rope jam and that was due to it being brand new and not wrapped tight enough. Once the rope is used it basically never jams at all, unlike a front mounted winch.
The only disadvantage with a mid mount is if you have to work on it. So if you have a reliable winch then no problems.
Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2007 7:43 pm
by turps
nzdarin wrote:The only disadvantage with a mid mount is if you have to work on it. So if you have a reliable winch then no problems.
This is why I was going to put the PTO in the middle and the elec junk out the front.