Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Todays pop quizz...

What in the front end goes POP, wont carry on in low range under no load, wont go up a track on low range under load.... Drives all the way home in highrange without stuttering, shuddering or carrying on?

I dont think I have any drive to the front, I'm really hoping i've snapped a CV rather then blowing my Diff.

I've got a KZN130 surf.

Its probably the crown wheel.
Drop the diff oil and see it you have chunks in there.

sounds like a diff, I done the same thing a month ago, the crown wheels in the IFS are very weak, make sure you know what ratio you have in it when you start looking for a new one.

Ya Bud
Sorry to Say sounds like The Front diff Went Boom :S

Start saving yo Dollars

/cry

aint it always the way :(

Taco-klng wrote:
Start saving yo Dollars

for the SAS

Yeh they are real weak I havent blown on yet add a locker and back off before the wheels come back down

Who knows maybe I am just lucky

Couple of questions,
Are you running FWH or the standard fixed hubs?
can you still run in highrange 4wd ?
or just highrange 2wd ?

If high 2wd only, diff probably gone, possible CV but you will know if it is a CV as soon as you grab hold of it and move it.

if you can run in high 4, low range transfer probably gone.

and this all depends if you are running the FWH or fixed hubs.

If you have the standard diff ratio in it, it will be 4.1 not a 4.11 and it gets worse because the 4.1 is the harder one to find.

I've got fixed hubs, and 2wd works (always thought these things were ment to be a constant 4x4)

I didnt try highrange 4x4 as i was being towed up a hill so just wacked it in High 2..

I must say, having a rear winch rocks! (not me, the people towing me)

Now that the car is finally in the garage i'll dump the diff oil and have a look.

The surf's run ADD - the LHS axle is 2 pieces with a coupling that is vacuum actuated. If you break your diff then depending on what breaks, you make need to decouple the RHS drive cap to get home.

Been there.

Paul

me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:The surf's run ADD - the LHS axle is 2 pieces with a coupling that is vacuum actuated. If you break your diff then depending on what breaks, you make need to decouple the RHS drive cap to get home.

Been there.

Paul

me too except i broke the output shaft (axle) good thing i have a lokker so at least i had 3wd

Meh well i dropped the diff... and its bad news all round.

Yes the diff is borked

BUT

Its the spider gears, which mean do i spend 450 for a s/h diff, or 1200 + whatever ARB are gonna sting me to wack an airlocker in (its just the spider gears they change ive been told)

So now i have a dilemma, i hate dilemma's ARGH

Does anyone know if you need the compressor for the airlockers for them to run UNLOCKED? Maybe i'll just get the diff done and wack in the compressors later

ARGH I DONT KNOW

There is one thing i do know... Its time for a beer

Damn Go the ARB Lockers. Stuff the new Diff, Spend 600Dolar extra and get somthing witch will actualy enhance your car... I want the same thing that happened to you to happen to me!!!

Give me an excuse to spend some dollar,
Mrs and Folks Mate, Love spending your dollar but when you go to spend it..... Damn... sh%$ hits the roof....
Larf...

Sorry mate Dont know About the Compressor stuffs..

Hope That somehow helped..

Roddy

Yeah chuck an airlocker in mate.
You wont regret it. Makes 4wding a whole new experience especialy with lockers in both ends.
Im surprised that the crownwheel held up but thats good news for you.

And no you dont need any air for the locker when its unlocked.
The unlock is spring activated only need air pressure to push against that spring action to lock it in.
Paul.

The old lux had a front locker, cant go wrong with a front.

Hrm I wonder how much ARB are going to sting me if i stick my diff on their counter..

endo wrote:Meh well i dropped the diff... and its bad news all round.

Yes the diff is borked

BUT

Its the spider gears, which mean do i spend 450 for a s/h diff, or 1200 + whatever ARB are gonna sting me to wack an airlocker in (its just the spider gears they change ive been told)

So now i have a dilemma, i hate dilemma's ARGH

Does anyone know if you need the compressor for the airlockers for them to run UNLOCKED? Maybe i'll just get the diff done and wack in the compressors later

ARGH I DONT KNOW

There is one thing i do know... Its time for a beer

ARB air lockers dont just change the spider gears. It's a whole new diff carrier and you just bolt your old ring gear to it. Much stronger than stock. It will run fine unlocked without the airline on it. Get it installed properly and then cap off the air fitting in the 3rd member to stop water and dirt getting in there.

in good ole arb overcharging fashion....

1219 for the locker and then 80 an hour to fit it

endo wrote:in good ole arb overcharging fashion....

1219 for the locker and then 80 an hour to fit it

If you are patient they pop up in the for sale section on here ocasionaly.
I picked up the one for the front of my old IFS Lux for $800 complete in a diff with new bearings and crownwheel and pinion.

an auto locker replaces the spider gears and goes real well in my surf you can also pick one up for under $400

Cobber
Ther ARB will transform your surf to an unstoppable machine in the bush...dont do anything else but lock it up...ARB is the best, auto locker will also fox your delema, as they replace the sunnies too, but when you put the butten in to 4wd, you will loose alot of steering if you put in an autolocker, then you will do your ring and pinion...so go the arb and save heartache having to spend big again soon.
Andrew

dow50r wrote: but when you put the butten in to 4wd, you will loose alot of steering if you put in an autolocker,

i disagree you have better steering with an auto than with a locked arb the difference is you can turn a air locker off to get your steering back, lets face it most of the driving you do you only need 2wd, i just turn my front diff on and off with the button

dow50r wrote:Cobber
Ther ARB will transform your surf to an unstoppable machine in the bush...dont do anything else but lock it up...ARB is the best, auto locker will also fox your delema, as they replace the sunnies too, but when you put the butten in to 4wd, you will loose alot of steering if you put in an autolocker, then you will do your ring and pinion...so go the arb and save heartache having to spend big again soon.
Andrew

Cobber, I agree that an air locker is better, however I put a Lokka in the front bout 3 years ago (after breaking a crown wheel with open centre) and it's still in great shape, and I have had a look.
Nothing wrong with auto lockers for getting "bang for your buck" in my opinion, yea the turning circle is wider with it on and so are all of them, and Dirty Dirty 4x4 has mentioned an easy way to turn it on and off to get around that one .

If you don't already have FWH, get some AISIN ones from the wreckers, cause you will need them with a front auto locker.

just be glad it was your diff, and not your transfer case.


This is what we found when we opened the tranfer on dads 95 series prado...

ferrit wrote:just be glad it was your diff, and not your transfer case.


This is what we found when we opened the tranfer on dads 95 series prado...

ouch.

whichever way you go it just means youll break the next weakest link in my case it was the right output shaft (axle), at least i had a locker so i still had 3wd

The surf diff is the same as a the 4runner diff yeah?

Chick at the diff joint is having problems finding a supplier. For some reason she is having trouble finding parts, nothing is listed under surf (duh) and they wont confirm anything else.

I thought the IFS diffs are pretty much the same in 7.5" (other then ratios)

She was gonna try Toyota....

endo wrote:The surf diff is the same as a the 4runner diff yeah?

nothing is listed under surf (duh) and they wont confirm anything else.

yep, same diff sizes as 4Runner (7.5 front, 8" rear).
been told all the Hilux IFS front diffs are the same, but not seen them all for myself so 100% sure on that.

Hope you have deep pockets if your getting Genuine Toyota !!
Maybe you need a better diff joint.

i feel your pain m8 had a ifs 4runna i, broke all the teeth off the crown and snaped the rigth hand cv at the same time it was cig loked fr & rr . ended up buyin a live axle fr 4runna bigger centre is bonus. old mate is right about the steer lock its a punish ,what u could turn in 1 go takes 3 if ya cig . ha ha i was in the habit of leavin 1 hub unlocked so it turn better than u get cronik tourqe steer

Yep the 7.5 inch IFS diffs from 4runners/Surfs/luxes are basically the same.

ADD have bearings for the inner axles, non-ADD have bushes.
Mostly interchangable but you cannot swap the carriers from one to the other (cant remember why, but tried and couldn't, might have been bearing size?)

If you broke the spider gears, check the pin that goes through them as you will need this if you go the lokka route.

Good Luck

Leeham

Whilst I am a Lokka fan, in the front of a 4Runner / Hilux I would use an ARB if you could afford it simply for the strength advantage. They are stronger and there is a fair debate about where the strength issues are. The discussion seems to be flex in the cage opens the crown wheel / pinon gap, tearing teeth off the crown wheel.

Personally, I tore apart the side gears in mine. They are only a 2 pinion, not 4. The ARB is a 4, fixing this weak point too. The cage in the ARB is *supposed* to be more rigid. PM ATS4x4 as he has some ideas relating to the 100 cruisers, and the centre is essentially the same.

FYI: After I blew mine, I put a 2nd hand unit in and put a Lokka in the rear. No more traction problems, no wheel spin, no broken front diffs. It's a cheaper option and it works very well.

Paul