Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have just picked up an auto from a TB42 GQ.
It will be joined to a v8 (on full gas) and fitted to my 93 (TD42) GQ.

No control module or throttle sensors ( or any other wirering) came with the gearbox.

My question is, do I need the control unit. If so are there an after market set ups I can use.

The ute is my daily driver, I just want to put it in D for drive. I’m not looking for a fire breathing quick changing combo.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Tony

You can get a manual valve body from Wholesale Automatics and then you don't need TPS etc, or you can make a controller using relays etc but you will still need a TPS for line pressure solenoid. One is cheap the other is brilliant but not cheap.
I have a manual valve body and changing is amazing. I can change at full throttle (280 rwkw) and it is extremely smooth and no slippage. No over heating etc etc. The only bad things is very clunky change when not under power, so keep the foot down and all is good!!!

nzdarin wrote:You can get a manual valve body from Wholesale Automatics and then you don't need TPS etc, or you can make a controller using relays etc but you will still need a TPS for line pressure solenoid. One is cheap the other is brilliant but not cheap.
I have a manual valve body and changing is amazing. I can change at full throttle (280 rwkw) and it is extremely smooth and no slippage. No over heating etc etc. The only bad things is very clunky change when not under power, so keep the foot down and all is good!!!

Thanks for that info nzdarin.
Couple of questions.
With this manual valve body do I have to shift manually thru the box, i.e. move the shifter from 1 to 2 then to D or can I just put it in D and the box changes by itself.

Do you know if this hard changing can be ironed out.

The ute this is going into is my daily driver. The engine will only put out about 200 hp at the crank. I am just tired of changing gears driving in suburbia.
My be I should get a controller and associated bits from a wreaker.

i think i got all that stuff for a auto box sitting in a car in my backyard..
the controll box is under the passenger seat rite??

well if u need it let me know...

Mousie wrote:i think i got all that stuff for a auto box sitting in a car in my backyard..
the controll box is under the passenger seat rite??

well if u need it let me know...

Mousie,
I am not sure were its located.
But I`d be interested in any bits you have.

auto computer is on the left hand side behind the kick pannel

Tony WestOZ wrote:I have just picked up an auto from a TB42 GQ.
It will be joined to a v8 (on full gas) and fitted to my 93 (TD42) GQ.

No control module or throttle sensors ( or any other wirering) came with the gearbox.

My question is, do I need the control unit. If so are there an after market set ups I can use.

The ute is my daily driver, I just want to put it in D for drive. I’m not looking for a fire breathing quick changing combo.

Any info would be greatly appreciated.

Tony

you shoudl not have used the factory nissan auto for an engine conversion. it is not the best option to go behind a v8.

however, you do need the computer to run the box properly and also the TPS.

Jes

jessie928 wrote:you shoudl not have used the factory nissan auto for an engine conversion. it is not the best option to go behind a v8.

however, you do need the computer to run the box properly and also the TPS.

Jes

Jes, why not use the nissan box?..
I thought they were pretty good boxes.

Tony WestOZ wrote:

jessie928 wrote:you shoudl not have used the factory nissan auto for an engine conversion. it is not the best option to go behind a v8.

however, you do need the computer to run the box properly and also the TPS.

Jes

Jes, why not use the Nissan box?..
I thought they were pretty good boxes.

the box is good behind the original 6 IF you service it regularly, keep it cool and use the ' factory recommended oil type

behind a v8 is a different story. You will have to spend more money to keep it stronger and that is alot of money into a GQ auto box.

rebuilds start from 2500$, and then the modifications $$$$

jessie928 wrote:

Tony WestOZ wrote:

jessie928 wrote:you shoudl not have used the factory nissan auto for an engine conversion. it is not the best option to go behind a v8.

however, you do need the computer to run the box properly and also the TPS.

Jes

Jes, why not use the Nissan box?..
I thought they were pretty good boxes.

the box is good behind the original 6 IF you service it regularly, keep it cool and use the ' factory recommended oil type

behind a v8 is a different story. You will have to spend more money to keep it stronger and that is alot of money into a GQ auto box.

rebuilds start from 2500$, and then the modifications $$$$

Are well I might have to go back to my first choice.
The good old Chrysler 727 with OD (aka 518) with a transfer case.
At least that will be an easy bolt up to the engine.

There is nothing wrong with the Nissan auto. In standard form it is strong than 700r4 anyway. If you use a diesel torque converter then you'll have problems due to different revs range etc.
If you have to rebuild the auto then getting it upgraded will cost bugger all. They can put the same frictions etc in as the one that goes behind the Nissan V8 and that comes from the factory with 210kw and 400nm torque.
If you want to do valve bodies then it will cost twice that of 700r4 but then we are talking a few hundred dollars.
To upgrade my auto it has cost about $2500 NZ and that includes importing the valve body from Oz. Mine is behind a Nissan 4.5 V8 with a pretty big turbo on it. It has 280 rwkw and has 10psi at 3000rpm so has full boost before the stall speed.
If you have to rebuild the auto then it will cost a fair bit but modifying it at the same time as a rebuild won't add much to it. I got mine upgraded and rebuilt at the same time and it cost under $4k.
The biggest thing is to run a very good quality synthetic fluid that can handle high temps. I use Redline fluid and I had it stripped after 12 months use behind the TD42 I used to race with (turboed intercooled etc etc) and there was no visible wear at all. I've been monitoring temps, fluid etc since the V8 transplant and nothing bad has been noticed. It has only done one low key comp so far but when you bouncing off the rev limiter things are getting worked fairly hard.
The other thing is to have a very good cooler but that is the same for every trans.

nzdarin wrote:There is nothing wrong with the Nissan auto. In standard form it is strong than 700r4 anyway. If you use a diesel torque converter then you'll have problems due to different revs range etc.
If you have to rebuild the auto then getting it upgraded will cost bugger all. They can put the same frictions etc in as the one that goes behind the Nissan V8 and that comes from the factory with 210kw and 400nm torque.
If you want to do valve bodies then it will cost twice that of 700r4 but then we are talking a few hundred dollars.
To upgrade my auto it has cost about $2500 NZ and that includes importing the valve body from Oz. Mine is behind a Nissan 4.5 V8 with a pretty big turbo on it. It has 280 rwkw and has 10psi at 3000rpm so has full boost before the stall speed.
If you have to rebuild the auto then it will cost a fair bit but modifying it at the same time as a rebuild won't add much to it. I got mine upgraded and rebuilt at the same time and it cost under $4k.
The biggest thing is to run a very good quality synthetic fluid that can handle high temps. I use Redline fluid and I had it stripped after 12 months use behind the TD42 I used to race with (turboed intercooled etc etc) and there was no visible wear at all. I've been monitoring temps, fluid etc since the V8 transplant and nothing bad has been noticed. It has only done one low key comp so far but when you bouncing off the rev limiter things are getting worked fairly hard.
The other thing is to have a very good cooler but that is the same for every trans.

you start with " there is nothing wrong with the nissan auto"

and then you just listed the thousands of dolars you have thrown at it so that " there is nothing wrong with it"

heheheh

JEs

nzdarin,
What temp does your box oil usually run.

These prices that are being quoted, do they include labour costs or just parts.

Never rebuilt a nissan box, but there all basicly friction plates and valve bodies.


For my application I think the standard Nissan auto will be OK. I will not be putting much more HP to the rear wheels than a basicly standard turbo TD42.