Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey all im putting a 5 inch lift in my 100 series 1998 model it has abs i have also ordered a part time kit what do i do about the abs wires and the other brake line do i disconnect the abs wires or extend them or what and get a extended abs brake line

regards scott

Is it a body lift or suspension lift or both.

I raised a 100 series with 2" blocks and the fluid lines have pigtails in them. They should be bent over horizontal before the lift. They will expand and not kink this way. Also your steering uni joint bolts needs to taken out before, then you have no steering. Remove the radiator bolts too. Don't forget to remove the plastic skirts too. The ABS wires did stretch, so it important to undo the clips or unplug them first. Extend them if required. As for suspension lift, I don't know.

Why disable the ABS?? Put a double cardon front shaft on and go for it...

hey mate i have a 5 inch lift on my car. All i did was extend to brake lines to braided lines which will also improve your brakes. what tyres are you planning on running? 35s have slight rubbing issues but nothing a 4 inch or 9 inch grinder and some extended bump stops wont fix.

i have 35s i mean the wires on the rear diff for the abs they go from the chassis to the diff can i extend them of disconnect or what its the same on the front

scottmcguinness172 wrote:i have 35s i mean the wires on the rear diff for the abs they go from the chassis to the diff can i extend them of disconnect or what its the same on the front

I beleive they are fibre optic, so lengthening is $$$$$

BUT

I thought you could re-jig the bracketry to get some more length if required.

why do you need to evtend or disconect them?? they should be fine!

do your rear abs wires reach at full flex tho?

and how long are ur rear shocks

I did a 8 inch on a 105 series a couple of months ago and the abs wires at full flex were fine after i modded the brakets , but no lengthening of the wires was done and still no probs. front shaft is the problem you will be dealing with and part time kit isn`t the answer. double cardan is. Just my 2c.

The abs and brake lines can be overcome with brackets...for instance, undo the handbrake cable brackets and leave them off, undo the bracket at the chassis for the brakes and space down with a piece of flat and 2 holes in it...same can be done on the diff....space up. all is good then.
ABS follows suspension arms so wont be a prob....
Front shaft will vibrate unless you go d/c......but you can also suck it and see...

dont know how long my shocks are. but i can find out if you want. all i know is that at full flex i can fit inside my rear gard with plenty of room to move so there is a fair bit of flex.

I also get vibrations on my front drive shaft which i need to fix some time but they are not to bad. but to fix this you will need a double cardonal joint.

lukes4x4 wrote:I did a 8 inch on a 105 series a couple of months ago and the abs wires at full flex were fine after i modded the brakets , but no lengthening of the wires was done and still no probs. front shaft is the problem you will be dealing with and part time kit isn`t the answer. double cardan is. Just my 2c.

I'm confused by the Double Cardan bit.

Normally with Uni's the angle at each end of the shaft should be the same to neutralise any vibration due to angular rotational variation.
If the car has a factory double carden, then the uni at the fixed end normally runs at zero degree angle.

If you put a D/C on one end, and leave the other end at an angle, you should induce vibration, not cure it.

I am assuming here that the joints are rotationally aligned on the shaft correctly.

Paul

thanks harrow ill hopefully be getting aroundthe same amount of rear flex as you im getting 30 inch rear shocks should be long enough thanks for all ur help guys i wish i went for a D/C and not the part time kit oh well shit happendsif i get sick of the abs light i might get a dc in the long run

[quoteI'm confused by the Double Cardan bit.

Normally with Uni's the angle at each end of the shaft should be the same to neutralise any vibration due to angular rotational variation.
If the car has a factory double carden, then the uni at the fixed end normally runs at zero degree angle.

If you put a D/C on one end, and leave the other end at an angle, you should induce vibration, not cure it.

I am assuming here that the joints are rotationally aligned on the shaft correctly.

Paul[/quote]

Paul, when you lift and caster correct the front, the transfer uni angle is significant, and the diff uni angle is minimal, so they dont cancel eachother out and therefore the shaft vibrates. The d/c halves each transfer uni angle and there are no more vibs...all i know is they work, i have one on the front of my auto cruiser

me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:

lukes4x4 wrote:I did a 8 inch on a 105 series a couple of months ago and the abs wires at full flex were fine after i modded the brakets , but no lengthening of the wires was done and still no probs. front shaft is the problem you will be dealing with and part time kit isn`t the answer. double cardan is. Just my 2c.

I'm confused by the Double Cardan bit.

Normally with Uni's the angle at each end of the shaft should be the same to neutralise any vibration due to angular rotational variation.
If the car has a factory double carden, then the uni at the fixed end normally runs at zero degree angle.

If you put a D/C on one end, and leave the other end at an angle, you should induce vibration, not cure it.

I am assuming here that the joints are rotationally aligned on the shaft correctly.

Paul

Pretty much to get it to steer properly you rotate the front knuckles back upwards, pointing the diff centre at the ground, this puts the uni's out, DC fixes

thats a shit load of work cuttign and roating the knuckles

Have to be carefull rotating the knuckles cause the tierod sits above the radius arms and when you bring it back more than 4 degrees it hits. sure most people probally know that anyway. NO EASY FIX -mmm sorry....

lukes4x4 wrote:Have to be carefull rotating the knuckles cause the tierod sits above the radius arms and when you bring it back more than 4 degrees it hits. sure most people probally know that anyway. NO EASY FIX -mmm sorry....

The steering arms that bolt to the knuckles can be put in a press and lifted a little bit to raise the bar

just wondering what double cardonal joints are, does anyone have any pics.

Flip arms are the best option for 5 or more inch lifts....you loose the bracketry than hangs below the diff, and the relay rod is free to rotate to the correct caster position.
Andrew

Paul Smith wrote:just wondering what double cardonal joints are, does anyone have any pics.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Landcruiser-HJ60 ... dZViewItem

This is not the right one for an 80/105 either....

Paul Smith wrote:just wondering what double cardonal joints are, does anyone have any pics.

Not from a cruiser, but this might help

with the double cardonal joint do you fit to both ends of the tailshaft or just the front or rear. were do you get them from. is it just a case of removing uni and fitting the cardonal joint. what do they usually cost.

Paul Smith wrote:with the double cardonal joint do you fit to both ends of the tailshaft or just the front or rear. were do you get them from. is it just a case of removing uni and fitting the cardonal joint. what do they usually cost.

driveshaft shopw, its only the DC at one end, not both.

buy a hilux one and have it modified to suit by a reputable shop