Outer Limits 4x4 Board

What is stronger, built 60 diffs, built rover diffs or std GQ diffs?
Going into an otherwise stockish Rangie with 35's.

why even ask!! everyone knows std GQ diffs are the strongest diffs in the world, and every hardcore comp rig runs them. Then you can step up to GU - they are unbreakable.

1MadEngineer wrote:why even ask!! everyone knows std GQ diffs are the strongest diffs in the world, and every hardcore comp rig runs them. Then you can step up to GU - they are unbreakable.

I always thought 60's with chromo axles/CV's and an air locker were "unbreakable" (longfields do come with a lifetime warranty don't they?)

Most 60 series diff concerns are in the centre. The side gears let go. A locker obviously fixes that. 60 Diffs are strong enough for what most people will do. Chromo shafts are almost a must if you're gunna run big tyres and big horses.
GQ diffs are reasonably bullet proof. GQ CV's aren't that much better than 60 CV's so GU front end is the go.
Also the lower ratio you go the weaker the pinion is. So a 4.11 cruiser diff is probably just as reliable as a GQ 4.6.
Cheers Dan

danna 60s

What's going to work with your steering and sump?

sierrajim wrote:What's going to work with your steering and sump?

Fair question. My mate has a set of 60 series diffs in his Rangie that he no longer requires, so they should be close to a bolt up fit. They run 4.56:1 ratios, CroMo CV's and ARB Airlockers, so I think they would be a good buy. Im guessing there will be no clearance issues? Its either buy these, or put a GQ in the front and 80 in the rear. But the cost to build them up would be greater than the 60's cost complete. Curious to hear other peoples opinions.

Rick.

bazooked wrote:danna 60s

Thats what I read it as when he said built 60 diffs

BBM Rick wrote:

sierrajim wrote:What's going to work with your steering and sump?

Fair question. My mate has a set of 60 series diffs in his Rangie that he no longer requires, so they should be close to a bolt up fit. They run 4.56:1 ratios, CroMo CV's and ARB Airlockers, so I think they would be a good buy. Im guessing there will be no clearance issues? Its either buy these, or put a GQ in the front and 80 in the rear. But the cost to build them up would be greater than the 60's cost complete. Curious to hear other peoples opinions.

Rick.

who care's! ya can modify anything....

Greg was bein a smart arse. out of your above options the 60 series diff are the go. 35's on standard axles aren't a big deal so with the longfields in them you shouldn't have a problem!

they are in a rangy just undo yours then put these in!!!!

WICKED wrote:

BBM Rick wrote:

sierrajim wrote:What's going to work with your steering and sump?

Fair question. My mate has a set of 60 series diffs in his Rangie that he no longer requires, so they should be close to a bolt up fit. They run 4.56:1 ratios, CroMo CV's and ARB Airlockers, so I think they would be a good buy. Im guessing there will be no clearance issues? Its either buy these, or put a GQ in the front and 80 in the rear. But the cost to build them up would be greater than the 60's cost complete. Curious to hear other peoples opinions.

Rick.

who care's! ya can modify anything....

Greg was bein a smart arse. out of your above options the 60 series diff are the go. 35's on standard axles aren't a big deal so with the longfields in them you shouldn't have a problem!

they are in a rangy just undo yours then put these in!!!!

Thats Ok, I'll just make sure I get Greg with some curly questions next time I interveiw him
I reckon the 60's will be the go too, spesh if I can get em for dollars Ive offered!

Rick you only have to look at the buggy scene to see what is the go. These rigs are running 40inch tyres at low pressours on rock. Adding to that they are putting them in FRONT wheel drive and doing bunouts (front digs) on them.

There is only 1 buggy running GU diffs (aka bourbon) these are stronger then QG without question and I think he has allready broken something in them. If my memory is correct he has done 1 rear centre and 1 or 2 CV`s. I`ll get Moose to look in here and he will be able to say exactly what rob has busted.

Most of the buggies are running 60 series front diffs with 30 spline longs.

I would say a 60 series diff with,
30 spline longs
chromo hub gear
and then cyro`d crown wheel and pinion.
This setup Would be stronger then a GU (centre would at a min be close) and nobody to my knowledge has ever broken a 30 spliner. GU CV`s have been many times.

another vote for 60 series. GQ is just heavier, certainly not stronger especially once you get a locker and all the gear into a 60. add to that the huge range of lengths available once you factor in 40 and 70 and 80 series for axles to make custom widths, CV's are identical to hilux so spares are never far away, and the big plus of any toyota axle is BRAKES that ACTUALLY WORK.

Maybe also the question you should be asking is not necessarily whats stronger, but whats cheaper to fix when you break it?

PJ.zook wrote:Maybe also the question you should be asking is not necessarily whats stronger, but whats cheaper to fix when you break it?

I really doubt he'll be breaking any of the above too badly (well maybe the rover gear is an exception ) in a rangie on 35's

Guts wrote:Rick you only have to look at the buggy scene to see what is the go. These rigs are running 40inch tyres at low pressours on rock. Adding to that they are putting them in FRONT wheel drive and doing bunouts (front digs) on them.

There is only 1 buggy running GU diffs (aka bourbon) these are stronger then QG without question and I think he has allready broken something in them. If my memory is correct he has done 1 rear centre and 1 or 2 CV`s. I`ll get Moose to look in here and he will be able to say exactly what rob has busted.

Most of the buggies are running 60 series front diffs with 30 spline longs.

I would say a 60 series diff with,
30 spline longs
chromo hub gear
and then cyro`d crown wheel and pinion.
This setup Would be stronger then a GU (centre would at a min be close) and nobody to my knowledge has ever broken a 30 spliner. GU CV`s have been many times.

60s in the front, and what about the Nissan H260 full floater in the rear?

Guts wrote: nobody to my knowledge has ever broken a 30 spliner.

High Roller off this board broke one a few weeks ago on a casual weekend drive.

I like the Nissan stuff, especially now that there is a decent aftermarket gear for them, but for your application you'd be mad not to buy the built Toyota stuff your mate is selling.

built 60

1MadEngineer wrote:why even ask!! everyone knows std GQ diffs are the strongest diffs in the world, and every hardcore comp rig runs them. Then you can step up to GU - they are unbreakable.

i told you!!! just look at the votes 31 for nissan and 28 for toyota.



this is a funny thread

2 for rover

I would go for the built 60series. They bolt in. Hard works already done.

Wendle wrote:

Guts wrote: nobody to my knowledge has ever broken a 30 spliner.

High Roller off this board broke one a few weeks ago on a casual weekend drive.

What did he break?

83lux has broken 2 and damaged the hub spline on a 3rd

mmmmm ok then, I stand corrected.

the 30 splinners do break but u have to give them a hell of a time
and fatigue them over lots of hard wheeling when i say hard wheeling i mean competition undercut lots of turning full lock and giving it heeps

with the amount of people running the 30 splinners here and the US
you dont hear of alot of breakage

j-top paj wrote:2 for rover

i've got a v8 mq hardtop , front diff ain't worth shit but the back is same as gq i beleive 9.25 in . only problem i've had is i managed to break the spider gears in the rear diff on slicks at willowbank doin wheelstands

get a locker.

built sixties are way stronger. gonna be custom work nomatter how you look at it. just go the great deal 60s and do new mounts.

I ended up buying the 60 series diffs. Just need to get the tailshafts and draglink made, sort the brakelines and Im done.

I worked out why nissan diffs are sooooooo strong (just watched the latest winch vids) all you have to do is not turn the front locker on UNTILL you are stuck!!!!!

I worked out why nissan diffs are sooooooo strong (just watched the latest winch vids) all you have to do is not turn the front locker on UNTILL you are stuck!!!!!

is that before you select 4wd?