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Removing Head

Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 9:08 pm
by Swerve
All,

removing the head on my Nissan G60 P Engine. How much force should I use to break the block/head seal ?

What is the best method ?

Have tried rubber mallet, lifting head with hoist, still won't crack the seal

Steve

Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 9:37 pm
by cooki_monsta
maybe an engineers hammer lightly around the seal?

Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 10:03 pm
by RN
Never tried it but would cranking the engine over assist. Utilise the compression to do the work or is that thwart with danger.

Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 10:21 pm
by Swerve
RoadNazi wrote:Never tried it but would cranking the engine over assist. Utilise the compression to do the work or is that thwart with danger.
RoadNazi,

Mate that aint going to work as the engine is seized !!

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/vi ... p?t=125565

My other thread.

Image
Image

Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 10:39 pm
by WRXZook
Mate, I'd place a piece of timber against the side of the head and give a couple of good hits with a decent hammer. You might be able to get a lever under the lift point bracket at the rear of the head to assist as well.

Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 10:46 pm
by PJ.zook
Squirt some hairspray down spark plug hole, fit spark plug, then apply HV coil to sparkplug *FOOM* off comes head (never tried it, but if you do, video it hehe)

m

Posted: Thu Nov 22, 2007 11:08 pm
by sloshy
just like wrxzook said and maybe a sharp timber wedge or if you get the
shitz a big hammer and screw driver :lol:

Re: m

Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 5:21 am
by plowy
sloshy wrote:just like wrxzook said and maybe a sharp timber wedge or if you get the
shitz a big hammer and screw driver :lol:
NNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
YOU DO NOT WISH TO MARK THE THE CYLINDER HEAD /BLOCK SEALING SURFACE AREA

use a lever bar or pipe , even timber in the inlet /ex ports and try to lever it up side to side
since you have taken the motor out you may even have to lay the motor on its side to stop it from flopping around whilst leavering just to break the head gaskets seal

Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 6:16 am
by pegasus
Are there hidden bolts :D

Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 7:15 am
by Sic Lux
pegasus wrote:Are there hidden bolts :D
2nd that they shoudn't need more than a tap to lift them off putting something in the ports to help is ok but i woundn't get too rough with it. Like the hair spray i would like to see it done with accetlyne as it goes off a lot better :D Are the plugs out

Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 7:34 am
by trains
pegasus wrote:Are there hidden bolts :D
Thats what Im thinking too.

measure twice cut once.............


Trains

Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 9:24 am
by Swerve
THERE ARE NO HIDDEN BOLTS

I have also taken the side cover off and checked. I wasn’t going to take the rockers off, but again took this off to make sure no hidden bolts.

Talking on RMP&O Eddy advises there is a pry point behind the No6 Cylinder to use a tyre lever. Pleasures of a steel head.

Steve

PS- Will try that tonight

Posted: Fri Nov 23, 2007 11:05 pm
by Swerve
Well had to go to the Mrs Xmas party and got home at 11pm. Was hanging to try again and get the head off.

Tried using both the rear and front pry points and thought no luck, went around the head with wood and a 4lb hammer. Didnt think it was budging, so then got the screwdriver and GENTLY tepped it in between the waterpump and thermostat, could see the gap opening SUCCESS.

Image

Then got the hoist and sure enough up she came. Feeling ok the head aint damaged as not much force was used and it is no where near the cylinders.

Image

Well got the head off and placed on the make shift bench at the rear of teh chassis. Then looked at the block and what did we see !!!

Image


Cylinder 1, 2, 6 empty, deisel and oil has run out

Cylinder 3,4,5 full of deisel


Photos of each cylinder

Cyl 6
Image


Cyl 5 left, 4 Right
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Cyl 3,2,1 (Left to right)
Image

Another shot
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Posted: Sat Nov 24, 2007 11:14 am
by Mr. octurbo
Swerve wrote:Well had to go to the Mrs Xmas party and got home at 11pm. Was hanging to try again and get the head off.

Tried using both the rear and front pry points and thought no luck, went around the head with wood and a 4lb hammer. Didnt think it was budging, so then got the screwdriver and GENTLY tepped it in between the waterpump and thermostat, could see the gap opening SUCCESS.

Image

Then got the hoist and sure enough up she came. Feeling ok the head aint damaged as not much force was used and it is no where near the cylinders.

Image

Well got the head off and placed on the make shift bench at the rear of teh chassis. Then looked at the block and what did we see !!!

Image


Cylinder 1, 2, 6 empty, deisel and oil has run out

Cylinder 3,4,5 full of deisel


Photos of each cylinder

Cyl 6
Image


Cyl 5 left, 4 Right
Image

Cyl 3,2,1 (Left to right)
Image

Another shot
Image
looks ahh rather healthy... :roll:

Posted: Sun Nov 25, 2007 4:03 pm
by Swerve
Sunday 25th Nov 2007

Well Ferdy came over for brunch with the Mrs and kid.

After the formalities we went to the garage to play with the seized engine. After much knocking pistons, oil over the pistons, steel bars for leverage we got 2mm of movement on the pistons.

We kept going and she is now turning off smooth as a baby bottom, except the half bolted clutch is dragging.

There is a rough spot which I reckon is a rust spot or something on the main bearing or similar. Need to get some more oil in the sump to submerge the crank. Then I can get a new head gasket and put her back together.

Steve

Posted: Mon Nov 26, 2007 9:55 pm
by Zeyphly
why not do a bearing roll as well?

Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 6:08 am
by Swerve
Zeyphly wrote:why not do a bearing roll as well?
What do you mean ?

Posted: Tue Nov 27, 2007 10:59 pm
by Zeyphly
replace bearings in the bottom end of your engine

Posted: Wed Nov 28, 2007 1:06 pm
by Swerve
Zeyphly wrote:replace bearings in the bottom end of your engine
Nope, not doing that, if and when taht happens will drop in my spare P motor or do a V8