Tube notcher hole saws

[sanger]

Hey all just finished making a notcher to notch out some pipe. I purchased some cheap HSS bi metal hole saws but they didnt last more than 1 notch. What brand of hole saws are people using?

Heres a pic of my notcher.

[RUFF]

Sutton brand work fine in a proper Notcher. Looking at your notcher you have to much distance between the support and the tube you are notching. It would work a lot better if you can get rid of the Chuck and the arbour and have the hole saw mounted directly to the shaft.

[redzook]

yep i just brought a cheap holesaw from local hardware

it has done one buggy and lots of misc stuff and still goin strong

id say the notcher is the problem with to much movement/chance to grab

[rodrocket]

Sutton brand work fine in a proper Notcher. Looking at your notcher you have to much distance between the support and the tube you are notching. It would work a lot better if you can get rid of the Chuck and the arbour and have the hole saw mounted directly to the shaft.

i couldnt agree more

enother thing to concider is to cut you tube to length first, that way only one side of the hole saw is doing the work

i have found that if you try to put the complete hole saw through the tube it tends to pull the teeth from the saw

regards
rod

[-Richo-]

use the spray on cutting oil and dont let it get too hot and you should get a couple hundred notches out of a normal holesaw (not the one you have), speedworx sell hole saws that have finer teeth and these work even better.

also what rodrocket said.

[v6hilux]

This one is a TCT, with 3 different style teeth in one.

It's good for 20mm mild steel.

It cost about $110 can be either standard drill chuck or MT, as it is 2 piece.

When cutting holes, it's all about clearing the swarf away and cooling the cut.

For 5mm steel, I might go up and down with it in the drill press 20 times to save the bit from heat and swarf damage to get a clean hole.

PM me if you need details of where to get one.

[RUFF]

This one is a TCT, with 3 different style teeth in one.

It's good for 20mm mild steel.

It cost about $110 can be either standard drill chuck or MT, as it is 2 piece.

When cutting holes, it's all about clearing the swarf away and cooling the cut.

For 5mm steel, I might go up and down with it in the drill press 20 times to save the bit from heat and swarf damage to get a clean hole.

PM me if you need details of where to get one.

These are great for cutting holes in plate but are not deap enough for cutting tube. They also loose their teeth easy if not supported properly.

[v6hilux]

How about some agreeing with the fact it's all about drilling technique, cooling and supporting equipment and not the actual holesaw.

[sanger]

can anyone with a proper notcher show me a picture of how the holesaw attatches to the shaft. I would like to cut down shaft legnth and het rid of chuck and arbor like RUFF said. There is too much movement and it does grab a fair bit.

[Mark2]

What would this one would be like?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/PIPE-TUBING-NOTC ... dZViewItem

[ludacris]

I find a fast weak drill and pushing slowly works best. Also a cutting spray.

LudaCris

[RUFF]

What would this one would be like?

http://www.tyrepliers.com.au/Products/M ... hanger.htm

Did you have 2 pages open?

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/vi ... p?t=126134

[sanger]

after thinking about it more im am convinced i need to reconsider my bearing and shaft situation. I think using sealed bearings and a 1" shaft should eliminate chatter. Does anyone have a homade notcher that can chime in with some advise.

[Mark2]

What would this one would be like?

http://www.tyrepliers.com.au/Products/M ... hanger.htm

Did you have 2 pages open?

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/vi ... p?t=126134

Dont know what happened there, link is fixed now. Here it is again anyway:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/PIPE-TUBING-NOTC ... dZViewItem

[sanger]

im sure it would work well for the money. But i have $100 invested into it at the moment so i would like to make it so it bomproof. Need some input on design as i'm not the best in that area.

[Eddy]

IMHO you're getting chatter coz the whole thing is too long and flexible.
Ya need to shorten everything up.
see if ya can get the shaft threaded and mount the saw directly onto it. The bearing needs to be as close to the work as ya can get it.
You also need to keep the saw speed down as much as you can, under 1000 rpm.

[sanger]

IMHO you're getting chatter coz the whole thing is too long and flexible.
Ya need to shorten everything up.
see if ya can get the shaft threaded and mount the saw directly onto it. The bearing needs to be as close to the work as ya can get it.
You also need to keep the saw speed down as much as you can, under 1000 rpm.

Thanks eddie thats what i paln on doing. The shaft is 16mm stainless steel is it a stout enough material. Also tapping a thread on the shaft to accept the holesaw wont work for the smaller holesaw as it has a smaller diameter thread. Spose could get an adapet machined up.

[80lsy gq]

dont bother with the cheap ones like the one posted in the link..they have a bush on the shaft not a sealed bearing like the better quality ones from Speedwerx and JD2..the bush will flog out fairly quick and give you an offset notch..

if you want to get out of this with spending the least amount of money then shorten the shaft right up and get the end threaded..there is an adapter you can get so the shaft will suit either small or large holesaws or if you are only going to use that size holesaw then get it threaded to suit that particular holesaw..

i have a JD2 TN 100 notcher and i use a $99 trade tools low speed high torque drill on it and the holesaws i use are $8.90 trade tools direct yellow HSS Bi Metal holesaws..i use Trefolux on the holesaw as a cutting compound..i get heaps of notches out of each one..

anoyther way to do it is to buy the shaft, bearings and holesaw adapter from someone like Speedwerx or JD2 and mount them to your base plate..alternatively if the shaft and adapter is dearer than $100 from them then buy the dodgy cheap notcher and make a sealed bearing housing to suit the shaft as the shafts are the same size in both the cheap and dear notchers

dave

[sanger]

dont bother with the cheap ones like the one posted in the link..they have a bush on the shaft not a sealed bearing like the better quality ones from Speedwerx and JD2..the bush will flog out fairly quick and give you an offset notch..

if you want to get out of this with spending the least amount of money then shorten the shaft right up and get the end threaded..there is an adapter you can get so the shaft will suit either small or large holesaws or if you are only going to use that size holesaw then get it threaded to suit that particular holesaw..

i have a JD2 TN 100 notcher and i use a $99 trade tools low speed high torque drill on it and the holesaws i use are $8.90 trade tools direct yellow HSS Bi Metal holesaws..i use Trefolux on the holesaw as a cutting compound..i get heaps of notches out of each one..

anoyther way to do it is to buy the shaft, bearings and holesaw adapter from someone like Speedwerx or JD2 and mount them to your base plate..alternatively if the shaft and adapter is dearer than $100 from them then buy the dodgy cheap notcher and make a sealed bearing housing to suit the shaft as the shafts are the same size in both the cheap and dear notchers

dave

Thanks for the detailed reply. Do you think 16mm shaft is adequate? Or should i look at upgrading to 1" shaft and make a new bearing block.

[80lsy gq]

IMHO you're getting chatter coz the whole thing is too long and flexible.
Ya need to shorten everything up.
see if ya can get the shaft threaded and mount the saw directly onto it. The bearing needs to be as close to the work as ya can get it.
You also need to keep the saw speed down as much as you can, under 1000 rpm.

Thanks eddie thats what i paln on doing. The shaft is 16mm stainless steel is it a stout enough material. Also tapping a thread on the shaft to accept the holesaw wont work for the smaller holesaw as it has a smaller diameter thread. Spose could get an adapet machined up.

16mm should be fine as the JD2 i have is 3/4 stainless steel..the adapters to suit the smaller holesaws can be bought for a few dollars so you can get the shaft machines to suit the smaller holesaws

actually i just remembered i think ihave a couple of spare shafts in the shed..i have one good one i want to keep as a spare but if you want the other one which is flogged out where it goes into the drill then you can have it..it is still fine on the end that screws onto the holesaw..just tidy it up on the bit that goes onto the drill..i willhave a look tomorrow and mkae sure i didnt throw it out

dave

[sanger]

thankks for the advise. Where would be the best place to ring about bearings, shafts etc. Any particular vendor?