Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I did the whole front end over the weekend, learn t some things but its all done and here is my info for those looking at doing it themselves that might need some help. For those that are already pro well how about adding some extra tips or ideas that I might have missed.

Tools


Gear


So Im going to basically put in with a few steps and other tips I have done.


Loosen up your wheel nuts before jacking the wheel up


Crack your outer hub bolts with the wheel on the ground - 10mm bolts. Remove the bolts and pull out the face and dial.



Your next faced with a "C" clip on the end of the axle you cant remove the outer hub casing until you have taken this off. Its good to have the right tool for this or screw drivers can do it




You then need to remove the bolts from your outer hub casing they are 12mm. I use a screw driver in the wheel studs to crack them.


Take of your caliper bolts on the back are 17mm (generally, the other side of mine where actually hex key bolts)


Next if you have the special wheel bearing toll you can remove the nuts if not use a screw driver on the corners to loosen them up. Remember there is a lock tab in the middle stopping them from moving, bend the tabs back first.

Its should go Lock nut - lock washer - another nut - Lock washer




Take your hub of generally the disk will seperate easily if not knock it of if you want for puttting in the new collars and wheel bearings later.


Next remove the four bolts that hold on the casing and backing plate for your brake caliper, these are a 14mm bolt. Note the way the backing plate is as you take it off for putting it back on remember the cast writing faces inwards towards the 4by





Next you can remove your Kinpin bolts top and bottom 12mm bolt. Remember to note top and bottom I normally put the top one on the Spring and the bottom on the group to remember. Also look at how many shims are on each one for when you put it back and you are cleaning the gear up for re-assembly. You can then remove your axle. At this stage after removing the hub as I am on the passenger side the axle is longer, Im not sure if it has anything to do with the High steer knuckle but when you put this back together I needed to put the axle in before the sliding the knuckle over and putting the kinpin bearings in. It could have something to do with the amount of movement in maneuvering the longer axle back into the center of the diff? Originally I followed the way everything came out and couldn't get axle back in. I had to take of the new seals and other kinpin gear to get it in.






After this remove all the scraper seal bolts on the back of the swivel hub they are 10mm bolts, not how your metal brackets come of and are mounted as it is tricky getting them back on. the inner metal tabs mount as a upside down "U" and the outer ones that capture the felt and scaper seal mount like a "C".





Okay next clean up all your gear of oil and other dirt and crap. Remove your old axle seal with a big screw driver its not hard to pop it out. Knock your Kinpin bearing collars out with a punch and hammer (stop hammer time LOL)




At this stage things started getting late, so had to speed things up. But basically remove your old wheel bearing collars. knock your new ones in. re-pack your wheel bearings and kinpin bearings. Slide your new scraper seal on its easier to do it before putting in the new kinpin collars on. put the new felt on rest them up the back for now.



Pack your bearings scraping the bearing over your palm till the grease pushes out the tops all the way around.


Pack your CV's with new grease put your new seal in slide the axle back in.







Put your new collars in, put the bearings in. Slide your swivel hub back over, do up the bolts for the Kinpins top and bottom.

Mount up your plates on the back of the swivel hub make sure to capture the scraper seal properly. I started from the tops to hold them in then tightened the nuts up from the middles out.






Start putting your gear all back on the way it came out. Put your new locker washer in bend the tabs over locking the bearings into place make sure they are tight but not to much that they cant spin. Put your hub casing back on, put your "C" clip back on and the out case. Tighten it all up and put your wheel back on. You will probably want to check all the gear after a wheeling trip or 500ks or so. Sometimes I have even had to tighten up the bolts a little on the wheel bearings.

Great tech

A small note. I used to undo/tighten the hub nut the same way using a screwdriver and hammer. Ive since learned that whilst its fine for removing the hub nut, Its hopeless for re-tensioning it to the correct torque. With hub nut sockets readily available from ebay its so much easier and safer to do it properly. JMO.

Thanks for the write up and pictures though.

Cheers dude I would be interested in getting one myself, do they cost much . What would the torque settings be....?

i could be wrong but it does not look like cv grease. cheers ron

afaik u can also leave the C clip off if u kill cv joints, makes easyier to change over.

I used a landcrusier hub socket on mine. worked ok. bit big but didnt round the nuts too much.

Good stuff mate. You might want to add something about the new kingpin bearings needing shims to achieve correct tension.
50mm socket from repco is $35.
Good write up.

ronoor wrote:i could be wrong but it does not look like cv grease. cheers ron

The stuff on the tub does say for CV's, though yes I would also normally use the Grey stuff I think it is....? I got help from a long time mechanic and he said it didn't matter to much, we did have the choice to go shop and get some and he said it would be fine. So see how things go......

I just did this yesterday, i only pulled it apart though. Taking the rest into suzisport tomorrow to get rebuilt then i am putting it back together next weekend.

I have one tip. Get snap pliers for the cirlcips as using screwdrivers takes for ever and is very frustrating. Also metric tool sizes, we mainly had imperial, metric fits a lot better.

Cheers,
Sean

Moly grease is the stuff you want for the cv's. It's the dark grey/ black stuff. And make sure you pack plenty in the swivel hub too before you put the cv and shaft back in. And maybe axle stands??? Love the write up tho, good photos!!

I think muppetman67 posted the correct torque values for the front wheelbearings. Please don't use a chisel and hammer to set tension.

This is from memory-

Basically, the inner nut is done up to 90Nm, whilst turning the hub. The nut is then backed off until at zero tension, then re-tensioned to 10Nm.

The lock tab and outer nut is installed and tensioned to 80Nm.

It is not possible to get this anywhere near right without a socket and a torque wrench. Once torqued to spec, the bearings will last so much longer and won't need ongoing attention.

Steve.

PS Good write up Mud-PigSierra!

Nice write up and good pictures. Good resource.

Haven't seen that jack before, looks like it can get down really low.

As someone suggested, I'd always recommend the use of jack stands... just in case!

WRXZook wrote: Haven't seen that jack before, looks like it can get down really low.

Yer its a special Alloy racing Jack I bought it on special just under 1G, it has a inch and a quarter deck height I bought it so I could work on my SS which was really low, I couldn't get anything else under it. Im so proud of it and I know Jay Leno has one in his work shop for when he is working on cars so thats my claim to fame with the Jack lol


Thanks so far for the extra tips as we are always learning and Im going to sort out a socked so I can adjust the torque settings correctly, if it means getting a few more thousand K's or longer life out of them it would be awesome.

Bible

Layto....

Sean wrote:I just did this yesterday, i only pulled it apart though. Taking the rest into suzisport tomorrow to get rebuilt then i am putting it back together next weekend.

I have one tip. Get snap pliers for the cirlcips as using screwdrivers takes for ever and is very frustrating. Also metric tool sizes, we mainly had imperial, metric fits a lot better.

Cheers,
Sean

Of course it will it's a metric car

Just had a look at your club link. Great site.

doing this tomoro/saturday morning following your write up. cheers mate

the best tip i can add is make sure you use genuine suzuki inner axle oil seals they are like $5 each always available and they do not leak, i have had a couple of sets of non genuine ones leak and when you compare them the inner lip is about twice the depth on genuine ones,

shit hot tech thread mudpig
but make jack stands your friend

spamwell wrote:the best tip i can add is make sure you use genuine suzuki inner axle oil seals they are like $5 each always available and they do not leak, i have had a couple of sets of non genuine ones leak and when you compare them the inner lip is about twice the depth on genuine ones,

x2 for sure

the best tip i can add is make sure you use genuine suzuki inner axle oil seals they are like $5 each always available and they do not leak, i have had a couple of sets of non genuine ones leak and when you compare them the inner lip is about twice the depth on genuine ones, Very Happy

Doh, now I know why mines leaking. All that work.

how do i get the felt and rubber shit back on?like the swivel hub kit felt seal and the steel C's??

how do i get the felt and rubber shit back on?like the swivel hub kit felt seal and the steel C's??

sack up and put a bit of muscle into it,or pray????

just finished doing this to my diffs last weekend and having never done it before it woulda been good to see this...good work

haha nah i mean do i just strech them over and hope i doesnt snap?

chuckwilltalk wrote:how do i get the felt and rubber shit back on?like the swivel hub kit felt seal and the steel C's??

im doing mine this weekend as well. i found it was easier to put the rubber seal over the back past the kingpins and then stretch it down over the other half..
i was swearing at the felt and rubber as it kept sliding all over the shop, sandwiche the rubber and felt between the C section and U sections then screw it into the swivel hub assembly.. it will make sense when you do it.

my wheel bearings arent the correct ones, thanks CBC! :( so i cant finish it off.. anyone know if WT and NT bearings differ? maybe they gave me WT ones for my NT.. fark knows.

should be the same.

ajsr wrote:shit hot tech thread mudpig
but make jack stands your friend

Cheers mate, I thought since I was doing it id get a mate to snap heaps of photos when I did it for a tech. Im glad I did I lost my hard drive last weekend and have lost a few years of 4WD pic's and technical stuff I have done so I only have my photos from the forums I have posted in now...

Yeah Jack stands at the time were holding up another Jimny and Vitara at the time and so I placed the tire under the car and trusted my trusty jack.

Hope everything went well for you Chuck, if I had read your msg earlier I would have offered to come give you a hand.

yeah josh all went well was all pretty simple once i understood the order of stuff, looks sweet now to no grease/oil leaks.
cheers chucky

any tips for cleaning all the grease and gunk off everything, ive been through 5 cans of supercrap degreaser.

Nothing beats the supercheap degreaser, just makes sure you whipe of the excess gunk with some paper towel or rags first.

i agree with GRPABT1, get a rag in there and clean up as much as possible first then keep wiping and a bit of degreaser. sounds Grimace but i used throw away gloves for the clean up bit that way i could get right in there to clean up.
just remember to clean up after the degreaser real well also.