Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Do all zuk t/c,s point up and the front and down at the back as in not level? Sounds like a dumb question but Ive never taken notice of the angle, and Ive had a shudder offroad when the front comes off the ground and just thought the bearings in the t/c were stuffed but its the front uni on the t/c end binding. The bottom uni is fine so Ive spaced the rear of the case up for now until I put in the 6.5s and rock ring.
second question how much can you "clearence" the ears on the yokes to limit binding? It hasnt been bad enough to damage the ears but I want to prevent other damage.
I cant go any lower I have spoa with old stock rears that are flat but when it was done instead of extending the chassis they used a bracket to drop the shackle mount down and out so it sits about 1" below the chassis.
Nik

Nik , I run my transfer at more of an angle than usual , but I use a cv on the front shaft to avoid binding , this gives the rear a better angle , you might need to do the same , I just used a 1.3 sierra cv and have had no problems , Cheers Paul.

run a wedge in the leaf pack to change the diff angle, and double cardans on the shafts to help smooth things out if its still dicey =)

Thanks guys but I mighten have explained it properly. The t/c itself sits high at the front and low at the rear almost pointing at the rear diff. Because of this the uni on the front of the t/c is close to binding at ride height but the diff end of the front shaft is acceptable coinsidering its spoa. Hope that makes more sense both the front unis are on different angles.
Thanks Nik

The diff end front uni generally won't cause problems , but the transfer end one will , You have a couple of options , check the rear uni for binding by jacking the body up and letting the suspension sag , check how much clearance you have on the rear uni , if there is a decent ammount of clearance yes you can change your transfer case angle which might fix your problem. If you don't have any rear vibration from your tailshaft I would leave it alone as you have to modify mounts , rebend the shifter and slip joints will not be correct as moving the transfer will lengthen the rear shaft and shorten the front shaft. You need some travel in the slip joints during suspension movement. The easier option is to add a double cardinal joint or a cv to the front shaft , these would eliminate binding. Also check the front shaft while supension is sagged because when you leave the ground say doing a jump , your suspension will bottom and the uni's if they bind will fail. You can take a little out of the uni to stop binding but this is not the best method and weakens the uni , Cheers Paul.

Thanks Paul yep thats what I mean is that a standard zuk thing? It does bind on full droop with the wheels off the ground but only chatters not totally binds but I dont want to risk major breakage.
The rear shaft is nearly straight with the leaning case and sagged rear springs.
I might try taking a little off the yoke ears and test it.
Thanks Nik

MInes on a big angle...... Only clears that little bash plate sort of thing by like 10mm!

Make sure your uni's are ok BY TAKING THE SHAFT out cause i just did the old shake test and they go bang pretty load then your stuck out bush and have to drive home on the swampers in front wheel drive which was an experience.......

i think i remember that suzukiboy. Even after all those turkeys

built4thrashing wrote:i think i remember that suzukiboy. Even after all those turkeys

You dont remeber! You remeber the story....... I broke it, got the brocken bits off, drove an hour in front wheel drive to get another one, put it in there, drove back 40 minutes, turned up told that guy how to use your zook, then you got up.....

You might remember the mounts though...

THAT WAS A GREAT WEEKEND!