Outer Limits 4x4 Board

anyone changed their BS steering on their mq?

give us a look pics would be great thanks

wat part?





Probly not wat u wanted but meh

nice SOA

i was looking at flipping the tie rod onto the top of the tie rod end thingy (sorry dont know terminology) and putting gq pitman (i think) direct to the steering box. trying to eliminate bump steer and the mq ridiculous steering relay shinanigan.

just want to see what tapers and tools are required.

cheers

I now run a custom Chromoly pitman arm cause i sheared the original one in half....

I think I've got about 36degree's of steering now... wow

damn, any tips on rotating the tie rod?

also your top steering arm, the bracket its attached too did you just bolt that on or is it a complete new fabricated hub?

thanks

q_ship wrote:damn, any tips on rotating the tie rod?

Wat?

sorry i meant flipping it, so instead of the nut being on the top so it is on the bottom and the tie rod onto of the mounting arm?

sorry about the bs its hard to explain but easy to see

q_ship wrote:nice SOA

i was looking at flipping the tie rod onto the top of the tie rod end thingy (sorry dont know terminology) and putting gq pitman (i think) direct to the steering box. trying to eliminate bump steer and the mq ridiculous steering relay shinanigan.

just want to see what tapers and tools are required.

cheers

GQ pitmans are a different spline. Need to swap to a GQ box apparently to do that. Theres a thread a few months ago. Search for "MQ and GQ steering" I'm gonna do the same thing though, get rid of the relay arm and have a single piece drag link but made from an old tie rod cut down and re-threaded and use standard tie rod ends.

WICKED wrote:wat part?




Probly not wat u wanted but meh

The new drag link connects to the hub how ? is it connected to the 4 bolts on top for the swivell bearings ? do you have any more photos

Steve

I got a 2nd MQ/MK tie rod, got it cut down and re-threaded it on one end and put 2 new MQ/MK tierod end on, added a steering dampner bracket and disposed of the relay junk, much better




Link here
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/vi ... highlight=

Hoppy

Swerve wrote:
The new drag link connects to the hub how ? is it connected to the 4 bolts on top for the swivell bearings ? do you have any more photos

Steve

Its a high steer arm for the SPOA. yer same as toyotas, i don't know how standard MQ's are done but. lol give me a list and i'll try get some of wat ya want. hehe

when flipping the tie rod so it sits on top of the tie rod end mounts, because there is a taper from the bottom to the top of the mount how do you stop the nut from tightening from the bottom into the mount?

thanks for all your help guys

Hoppy11 wrote:I got a 2nd MQ/MK tie rod, got it cut down and re-threaded it on one end and put 2 new MQ/MK tierod end on, added a steering dampner bracket and disposed of the relay junk, much better


Link here
http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/vi ... highlight=

Hoppy

Was thinking of doing this to my GQ leafy... how do you find the bump stear?

bump steer is when the tie rod end adjusters knock on the leafs when steering.

didnt think gq's had that problem....

q_ship wrote:bump steer is when the tie rod end adjusters knock on the leafs when steering.

didnt think gq's had that problem....

Bump steer is caused by the suspension geomatery changing when a wheel or wheels are compressed (ie. you hit a bump)

On a coil GQ the panhard rod and the drag link are parallel to stop bump steer..

On a leaf truck without a panhard, refer pic above, imagine when the passenger wheel goes up, the draglink becomes more parallel to the body and hence becomes longer (if you get my drift) turning the car to the left..

if it had a panhard that was parallel to the draglink, the panhard would move the whole diff to the left as well, hence no bump steer....

this is why the leaf patrolls had the idler arm with fifty little rods.. you will notice that the leaf drag link (from the idler to the lh side) is almost parallel to the diff and it pivots on the idler when it hits a bump, reducing bump steer.. the idler is there to lower the pivot point from the pitman arm (on the steering box) to the level of the diff....

when the tie rod ends hit the leaves.. it is just bad engineering...

the truck above WILL have bump steer it is only a question of how bad it is.. I would like to do this to my truck, but want to know how it handles on the road...

90Mav wrote: Was thinking of doing this to my GQ leafy... how do you find the bump stear?

The bump steer is not any worse, the main thing i notice is that on some roads the steering will react to the camber of the road which will make the steering when slightly off centre, SLIGHTLY, and not on all roads, I have thought of putting in a high steer arm to lessen the angle.

the leaf sprung 75 series utes and troopy's run the same steering set up, not sure what the bumpsteer is like in them
Hoppy

cheers mate sounds like it would be the go..

So how is every one going on there steering mods ?
and should'nt this get a place in the all famous bible some good info

well i have got the tie rod off and all the relay junk looks abit different!

im waiting to drill the ball joints out and get the machining done on the old tie rod and get some new ends...

its a work in progress so hopefully ill get some picks up soon.

anyone got any other way of doing this let me know

thanks brad

well i'm just waiting till some one puts some step by step pics up so i can do it.
Seems pretty easy to do and i got spare steering arms and all that junk, so i should be able to do it with out to many dramas.

I think it would make the old girl much nicer to drive, But then i could be wrong.

thats my fear, but you never never know if ya never never go.

once i get it done ill put the pics up

Wish I had coils wrote:well i'm just waiting till some one puts some step by step pics up so i can do it.
Seems pretty easy to do and i got spare steering arms and all that junk, so i should be able to do it with out to many dramas.

I think it would make the old girl much nicer to drive, But then i could be wrong.

hi wish,

in addition to machining your knuckles for the flip. you will also have to machine the hole were the steering link attaches to the drag link. because the tapering will be facing the other way. i had to do this when i flipped the draglink.

what i did:

1. dismantles the knockles
2. brought the knockles and a tie rod end to the machineshop
3. machinist drilled the holes with a slightly oversize drill bit.
4. made a bushing the outer to the size of the new hole on the knockle and the inner the taper size of the tie rod end.
5. using a vice. pressed the bushing into the hole with the taper opposite the original orientation.

the tricky part is to get the correct agle of the tapering. my machinist simply used a caliper and measured to widest and narrowest portion of the tie rod end and made some calculation.

this is how it looks now:

Pics no workies :(

Cheers mintoy.
Sound all good, but the pics never worked like datpimp said

Pics mintoy pics, please
Hoppy