Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Gday...

had the suzuki for a few days now... i think its fuc#in killer, make me wanna sell the PATROL and spend more money on the zook... but all in dew time..
GOTTA A few QUESTIONS!

1. what should compression reading be.... on the 1.3 sierra motor

2. BEACH DRIVING..im on 30inch tyres, what pressures are people using... and use of 4H or 4L... also what kind of REVS are people changing gears???

3. What oils are recommended for GEARBOXES,DIFFS,MOTOR....and what LEADS,PLUGS... any things i should check as i just bought it and i will be giving it an entire full service on THURSDSAY....

I appreciate any help,,, still learining about these GREAT vehicles...if anybody can think of IMPORTANT things i should check when servicing let me know...

CHEERS BRUNO

what beach u going on? depends on what sands like and conditions.

2) between 5-15 and 4h or 4l depending on conditions. 3-4k gear change usually in sand. keeping revs up and not boggin down.

3) same oil for diffs/box/xfer, sae 90/ or 90/140 think it is.
engine i just used some penrite semi-synthetic
leads, Bosch
plugs - ngk.

remember transfer oil + undo filler before drain holes on all

You'll find that with a zook you can afford to be a bit more relaxed on the tyre pressures due to their lack of weight. This means that usually you can go lower psi without having dramas like rolling tyres off the bead and higher psi without getting stuck as they tend to "skip" across the top rather than sinking down in the tuff stuff if enough right boot is applied.

going to LANCELIN next week to test the car... 3-4k gear changes?? is real damaging to these motors to rev past that?? in low4 revs get up their quick

they rev to 6.5 or more hehe

but they are built to rev like that. loves it up there. usually sit at 4kish on sand in whateva gear suits. now with the 1.6 use same revs but a gear higher hehe, yeh 4L revs a lot quicker but you will c whats its like up there and to drive. try it out at diff revs and such.

my usuall road changes are about same in 2h.

start with 15 then go lower if needed for pressures up there. conditions change daily/weekly there.

for sand i used to use high range 2wd until i got stuck... let the tyres down till no more air comes out too - the sidewall will hold the car up!

get some strips of carpet about 300mm wide by 800+mm long - 4 pieces... keep them in the back - theyll get you out without the need to dig big holes!!!

as for RPM for gear changes - the 1.3 gets its max torque at 3400rpm i think? so thats the time to change gears if you're accelerating. If you're cruising try stay above 2500rpm and closer to 3000rpm for better fuel economy (less foot down trying to accelerate through dips).

be VERY careful in lancelin... go slow unless you know the dunes that day (they change every few hours out there) - going too fast may leave you no time to stop going over a sheer dropoff - MANY vehicles have rolled and heaps of people have been injured. so go slow and learn to drive the zuk before trying anything too daring =)

1. Out of the service manual:

Standard: 199 psi
Service limit: 170 psi
Difference between cylinders: 14.2 psi

2. I've got stock tyres and I usually put them at 20ish for sand and then drop them even more if I have trouble.

3. For my newer engine, I use Penrite HPR15. Older one I used Penrite HPR40.

Gearbox I used Castrol VMX80

Then Penrite hypoid gear oil for the diffs, sae 80W-90.

I used one of the two for the transfer...

My plugs are NGK with Bosch leads IIRC.

cheers fellas... ill have the motor compression tested and the car looked at properly before i go ahead and service the whole thing..

Cheers

Forget these people who say don't worry about dropping pressures til you're stuck, or only drop them to 20psi. All you'll achieve is an overworked engine that will struggle to push the Zook around.

Like someone said, because of their weight there is no problem going down as far as 8 or 10psi. You'll make it easier on the vehicle, and won't cook the motor as a result.

Bruzar wrote:going to LANCELIN next week to test the car... 3-4k gear changes?? is real damaging to these motors to rev past that?? in low4 revs get up their quick

Congratulations on buying a real 4x4.As you get to know your Zook you will discover they don't really have a limit to how hard they will rev.As stated they are a high reving engine and will cop a flogging for days/weeks/years on end.When and if it sh$%s itself a second hand donk will be cheap as chips and a day in your shed and it's ready for more abuse.

I usually run my tyres around 16psi

OILS...... http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_a ... Model=2548
Could this link be added to the bible?

like 4130 said drop them down before you start on the sand to around the 10psi mark and you will not have any dramas from the outset. Why bother doing when you get stuck, do it before and don't get stuck. 20 psi is road pressure on a Zuk.

grimbo wrote:like 4130 said drop them down before you start on the sand to around the 10psi mark and you will not have any dramas from the outset. Why bother doing when you get stuck, do it before and don't get stuck. 20 psi is road pressure on a Zuk.

x2 on stocton beach we go as low as 5psi in the lwb and rev to 2 to 3 grand

i run 30psi onroad any dramers with that?

Be glad you own a 1.3 big block... My 1L needed close to redline to keep it ontop the sand without bogging

brendan_h wrote:i run 30psi onroad any dramers with that?

why run them that high?

4130warrior wrote:Forget these people who say don't worry about dropping pressures til you're stuck, or only drop them to 20psi. All you'll achieve is an overworked engine that will struggle to push the Zook around.

Not only that, you help leave the track behind you in a mess. Those bad corrugations you get are caused by idiots not letting their tyres down adequately enough, driving in 2WD and so forth.

grimbo wrote:

brendan_h wrote:i run 30psi onroad any dramers with that?

why run them that high?

my old tyres i used to run 22 but the trepadors are way better on the road with 30

grimbo wrote:

brendan_h wrote:i run 30psi onroad any dramers with that?

why run them that high?

was at the servo with a few other 4wders after and they all hit in 30 so i did aswell.

should i lower them or 30 is fine?

let em down a bit for more ride comfort and may make handling a little better.

i run 20-22 on my 31s

did compression test today... MOTOR: 213,000km

1- 165
2- 165
3- 155
4- 165

Also i bought..

NGK leads
Ngk PLUGS
oil filter
fuel filter
engine oil
trans,diff oils
tappet free

$116

Gonna service tommoro.. and check timing..ajust carboretta..ect

$116 for all that. god i just replaced all the oils in my car and i got some lukas fuel treatment cost me $116 woth of oils!

G'day Bruzar.
I'll just drop in my 20 cents worth on tyre pressures.

If your Zuke still has its tyre placard intact, it will tell you to run at 20psi on the road. Seems odd to those of us accustomed to Commodores, Falcons etc at 30-plus psi, but as Grimbo said, Zukes are really light in weight.

Not sure I'd be game to pull Alien's trick of letting all the air out and relying on sidewall strength, that might depend on what tyres you are using! Anyway - I run my 235/75 Pirelli Scorpions with 24psi front and 20 rear on bitumen, and I get very even wear across the tread. I then drop to 10-12 for soft sand.

I also tend to rely more on torque than power in sand, so I try to keep my revs around 2000-3000.

Cheers, and welcome to Zuking!
Longbaser.

to clarify the sidewall thing, he said he was on 30" tyres... a tyre that size is rated to take far more weight than a zuk puts on it, hence taking the air all the way out and capping it again, you actually still have 5 or so PSI in there when going over bumps etc...

Appreciate all replies fellas...

I run 30x9 BFG muds... im running 35psi on road ATM... i have tried lower but getting a driveline WOBBLE at about 60km/h...

I going to buy a STEERING DAMPNER hopefully today and see if that does the trick...

If any one knows which one is the best one or where to buy it for cheapest service... fire away...

u will have other issues inc alignment, steering loosenesss, wheel nuts loose,bearings causing the wobble, u should be able to drive it without the dampner and no wobbles. even tyre balance etc

try supercrap, wheels world ozzie park

Bruzar wrote:Appreciate all replies fellas...

I run 30x9 BFG muds... im running 35psi on road ATM... i have tried lower but getting a driveline WOBBLE at about 60km/h...

I going to buy a STEERING DAMPNER hopefully today and see if that does the trick...

If any one knows which one is the best one or where to buy it for cheapest service... fire away...

Steering damper just hides a problem, doesnt fix it at all. You have other issues, check your wheel balance, alignment, and all your front end bushes/tie rod ends. Check your u--bolts, and your steering box. Your should not need a dampener to drive the rig.

Layto....

Longbaser wrote: I also tend to rely more on torque than power in sand, so I try to keep my revs around 2000-3000.

Both of your newton-metres can push the Zook around?

let your tyres down to 5-8 psi and dont even look at the tacho just hold that go pedal flat it can take the abuse all day long they love it