Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hey fellas.. im half way thru fitting and setting up my PWR water to air intercooler (barrel type) got a heap of pics ill try and get on later if i can..... its a tight fit between the bonnet and intercooler so i had to cut out a section and im now looking for a new model hilux bonnet scoop.... there abit of dicking around with these intercoolers but its been nearly 2 years in the making.....so im lookinf forward to getting it on and re-tuned like i said pics to come

MUSS wrote:hey fellas.. im half way thru fitting and setting up my PWR water to air intercooler (barrel type) got a heap of pics ill try and get on later if i can..... its a tight fit between the bonnet and intercooler so i had to cut out a section and im now looking for a new model hilux bonnet scoop.... there abit of dicking around with these intercoolers but its been nearly 2 years in the making.....so im lookinf forward to getting it on and re-tuned like i said pics to come

Which barrel size did you go with? Do you run a bodylift? I'm looking at running one of these on my HJ75 with no b/l. Would the 'cooler fit with the bonnet reinforcing removed above the barrel, or with the bonnet spaced up a bit at the rear edge?

Anyone know how high the top of a 3b sits compared to that of a 2h?

-Stu

hey stu there is a shit load more room with a 2H motor compared to the 3B as the 3B has a deeper head then the 2H.... im not running a body lift and with the 3 b i had to cut right thru the bonnet not just thru the bonnet reinforing as the middle of the 73/75 series bonnets dip in the middle about 11mm.... im runnin the smallest barrel think it 290mm long and 4 inch diameter

Thanks muss. I was planning on the smaller barrel too - hopefully i'll get away with a little under-bonnet trimming and spacing up the rear of the bonnet. Did you do much research as to what size PWR cooler is required? I imagine the 270hp model (i think the smallest in the range - 4"x6") would do for a mild diesel setup - do you think this is the case?

-Stu

mate i did a shit load of research!! about 2 years of tinkering around with other coolers... subaru and toyota water to air units the smaller PWR barrell is plenty for me as the 3B is only a 3.4ltr 4 cylinder diesel... and will only be runnin about 10 - 12 psi....

honestly i would go with the biggest cooler you can fit in my case it was the smallest one.... but the longer the cooler the more effective cooling capasity as long as you plumbing isnt to extravigant ...

i got all my silicon bends and even bought alloy bends and pipe (which i didnt end up using ) from ARE in brisbane.... www.are.com.au chek out the website find the gear you need then ring Val and you will be on your way! great people to deal with too! really helped me out

Hey Muss, i'd be real keen to see the pics as I have been thinking about water to air on my middy for a year but just not sure how it would fit! Where are you mounting the radiator?

letsplaychicken wrote:Hey Muss, i'd be real keen to see the pics as I have been thinking about water to air on my middy for a year but just not sure how it would fit! Where are you mounting the radiator?

Hey, just a thought. On my midi I moved my radiator back 4". Now there is a shit load of room for an intercooler radiator, or even an air to air intercooler for that matter. I (eventualy) am putting a water to air on mine and will be moving the bar and highmount back into the grill a little. I could be imagining it but I reckon it helped the cooling a little as well because the air is getting funneled into the radiator.. Also, with a body lift I have quite a lot of room for a w/a intercooler.
Cheers.

okay fellas..... just got back from my trip down south will get pics up asap

where are the pix?! garn you've had AGES!

PRIORITIES DAMMIT!

[mr squiggle blackboard]HURRRY UUUUPPP[/mr squiggle blackboard]

Looks good!

Is it possible that you'll have problems bleeding the 'cooler with the inlet/outlets at the side rather than the top?

-Stu

stu - narh no problems bleeding goona try and fill it before i mount it permanently giving me a better chance at getting rid of the air out of the tube. and it is the 4x6 inch cooler..... i recon you would have some fitment issues trying to fit the 4x8 inch cooler.

letsplaychicken - ill be mounting the radiator and thermo fan in front of my grill and behind my ARB bull bar and painting it black to keep prying eyes away and fitting a small but effective screen (security grade) to stop bug strike and damage

ill keep you all posted

cheers
JAKE

Thats looking good mate I have a middy as well and been thinking of adding exactly the same thing.
Is there any chance of posting where you bought the stuff the part numbers and what they cost.
Cheers Russ

i know im slack.........

Muss, alot of ppl dont get the water part right, and performance suffers..simply because the charge air is above 100 celcius, and if there is airtrapped on top in the barrel, it will turn into steam....then that pushes water out of the top of the barrel...heat rises in water systems, so if the outlets are on top, the hot water will evacuate faster, leaving colder in there to do the job...so in effect, having 90 deg bends on the water pipes and outlets facing up is the best option, but if thats not possible, to bleed the cooler, with the water pump running, swivel it so the outlets are upright... so leave enough play in the water pipes to do this easily, and then turn it back....all the air will now be in the reservoir...top up and away you go...run 50/50 coolant, no more, proven to have the best thermal exchange at that %

here is some piccies of one fitted to a 1hz
http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm10 ... H%20Turbo/

rustynuts wrote:Thats looking good mate I have a middy as well and been thinking of adding exactly the same thing.
Is there any chance of posting where you bought the stuff the part numbers and what they cost.
Cheers Russ

I haven't found anywhere cheaper than these guys - but not saying they're the cheapest!

http://www.tweakit.net/shop/index.php?cPath=57_36_41_56

you will always have an air lock in the top no matter how hard you try and bleed it. the only way to get rid of all the air is to have a hole at the top, which as has been sugested you leave it loose and bleed it before you clamp it in final position, or you can either swivel the cooler so the outlets point up (you're fitting a scoop anyway so it will be covered), or if you want to leave them pointing the way they are, drill a small bleed hole at the highest point, and tap it for a plug. it only needs to be small, 6mm gives you a common thread and a bolt is easy to find. danger - don't drill into the core!
buy head one way or another you need to get the gas out the top. it's best to have the outlets permanently facing upwards, then if you do get spot boiling, the bubbles go straight out the outlet and get re-condensed in the radiator instead of hanging around in the cooler.

looks cool. I wish I had the time and cash to fit one o the 80.

Any chance you can test pre and post intercooler temps? Looking for some comparisons.

http://forum.ih8mud.com/3434411-post146.html

ITS ALIVE finally the middy w/a intercooler saga continues.........

pics to come as soon as the middy gets home

Hey muss what is the rest of your setup? How much boost/fuel are you running and what are EGTs like?

This is my setup, I tilt the barrel to bleed it and its been working well.

hulsty wrote:Hey muss what is the rest of your setup? How much boost/fuel are you running and what are EGTs like?

its a PWR kit.... running about 10 - 11 psi and fuel matched to suit... nothing insane.

something I will note the bonnet scoop adds a major denifite to the temperature of the barrel

before i fitted the bonnet scoop I couldnt hold my hand on the intercooer barrel... with bonnet scoop fitted easy to touch and hold.

Ive got some temps written down somewhere.

One of the thin square or rectangular cores would fit in there very well.
I would say without the need to cut the bonnet up as well.

Do you guys have some pre/post temp's?

Northside 4x4 wrote:One of the thin square or rectangular cores would fit in there very well.
I would say without the need to cut the bonnet up as well.

Do you guys have some pre/post temp's?

still trying to rattle my brain as to what i have done with the figures

MUSS wrote:

Northside 4x4 wrote:One of the thin square or rectangular cores would fit in there very well.
I would say without the need to cut the bonnet up as well.

Do you guys have some pre/post temp's?

still trying to rattle my brain as to what i have done with the figures

all good let us know when you find them

looks good
im about to do the same thing on my 3 b aswell looking at the kits from frozenboost .com
how much was the PWR intercooler

MUSS wrote:

hulsty wrote:Hey muss what is the rest of your setup? How much boost/fuel are you running and what are EGTs like?

its a PWR kit.... running about 10 - 11 psi and fuel matched to suit... nothing insane.

something I will note the bonnet scoop adds a major denifite to the temperature of the barrel

before i fitted the bonnet scoop I couldnt hold my hand on the intercooer barrel... with bonnet scoop fitted easy to touch and hold.

Ive got some temps written down somewhere.

I run 21.5psi through mine, it does not feel to bad to touch after driving, peak EGT's definitely climb slower when holding high load on the engine. With a 1'' body lift I still had to make room though the bonnet to fit mine.

Northside 4x4 wrote:One of the thin square or rectangular cores would fit in there very well.
I would say without the need to cut the bonnet up as well.

Do you guys have some pre/post temp's?

No I dont, I would like to if you can suggest a cost effective way to do it?

Have you had anything to do with these engines? I am looking for info on how far people have pushed them, I will be buying soon a new turbo that should see me at 22psi under 2000rpm.

hulsty wrote:


Have you had anything to do with these engines? I am looking for info on how far people have pushed them, I will be buying soon a new turbo that should see me at 22psi under 2000rpm.

you will end up with head and precombustion chamber cracks, and problems with combustion product being forced back bast the injector pintle. It will go well for a while but these issues will cause rapid and potentially catastrophic failures - reliability will be massively compromised. even with all the intercooling in the world, the head and precombustion inserts will get very, very hot, and fail sooner rather than later. head cracks = coolant loss = overheating = fail. precombustion chamber cracks = dropped insert = catastrophic fail. injector nozzle damage = overfuelling = huge EGT's = accelerated cracks, overheating, smoke etc.

EGT's only tell you half the story in an indirect injected engine; because all the inlet charge is compressed through the precombustion orifice, and all the combustion product (ie fire, smoke and hot nitrogen) are ejected through the same little hole (size of your pinky fingernail), the edges of that hole get very very hot, and heat is lost from the charge very rapidly - dumped into the head and eventually the oil and coolant (and manifolds, block etc). a massive increase in cylinder combustion temps can result in an almost negligible increase in measured EGT, especially if you are measuring post turbo (pretty much a waste of time).

the only way to reliably run that kind of boost is with a direct injected engine - a 13B-T will bot straight in - however it would be a good idea if you intend to regularly hit the high side of 20psi to slightly reduce the static compression ratio.

there was a mob making high nickel 3B heads which are far more resistant to cracking. possibly available from SMS? or a new head form toyota will be high nickel but also high $$.

good luck. if you only intend it to last a few months, go nuts