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Tb 42 comp engine
Tb 42 comp engine
Got a TB 42 engine yesterday in kit form. Also got the bits for injection par computer.
Got too rebuild it and hot up a bit as I go.
Currently running a Rb 30, so I will need to change the gearbox too.
Plan to start running a few comps in 2008. If I do well I shall upgrade to a larger engine. For the moment keeping things within a reasonable bugget.
option 1 go the turbo.
Option 2 go natural asperated.
Would like to go the turbo. Think it could end up costing me a lot of money. Not sure if the money spent would be worth while in the long run.
Go option 2, increase compresion, add a cam, good exhaust, standard computer and give the head a bit of a clean up. This being the cheaper option but not sure if it will give me enough power.
Any ideas or input.
Got too rebuild it and hot up a bit as I go.
Currently running a Rb 30, so I will need to change the gearbox too.
Plan to start running a few comps in 2008. If I do well I shall upgrade to a larger engine. For the moment keeping things within a reasonable bugget.
option 1 go the turbo.
Option 2 go natural asperated.
Would like to go the turbo. Think it could end up costing me a lot of money. Not sure if the money spent would be worth while in the long run.
Go option 2, increase compresion, add a cam, good exhaust, standard computer and give the head a bit of a clean up. This being the cheaper option but not sure if it will give me enough power.
Any ideas or input.
Anything is possible, it just comes down to time and money.
Ferals build www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic164570.php
Ferals build www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic164570.php
Modding the rb 30 lump is one idea. alais its connected to not the strongest gearbox. would hate to waist any more money on the dam thing. The gearbox is allready making intresting noises as is the engine.
Where as the tb 42 engine and gearbox are both proven to take the the abuse of comp work.
Where as the tb 42 engine and gearbox are both proven to take the the abuse of comp work.
Anything is possible, it just comes down to time and money.
Ferals build www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic164570.php
Ferals build www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic164570.php
Re: Tb 42 comp engine
10K aint in my reasonable budgets.AFeral wrote: For the moment keeping things within a reasonable bugget.
[quote="Vulcanised"]more grunt than a row of drunk girls at a B&S ball!
[/quote]
[/quote]
But by the time you do a manifold, an intercooler, exhuast, the turbo, ecu, tuning etc. I guarantee there won't be much change from $10k.
Even getting everything second hand and doing it yourself it will add up really quick. As an idea, I spent almost $1k on oil and water plumbing but that was a custum build but those are the costs people forget about. A new turbo will put you back about $2.5k. Don't forget a TB42 requires a much bigger turbo than a TD42 and to get good low down you need to go ball bearing.
Even getting everything second hand and doing it yourself it will add up really quick. As an idea, I spent almost $1k on oil and water plumbing but that was a custum build but those are the costs people forget about. A new turbo will put you back about $2.5k. Don't forget a TB42 requires a much bigger turbo than a TD42 and to get good low down you need to go ball bearing.
93 Nissan Pathfinder / Terrano Turboed VH45, GQ Trans and T-case, coil overs, hydraulic winch and fair bit of other stuff. (Currently a pile of parts in the workshop)
fuel inj the rb30 then add small mods, u can get good power from small mods to it. start from there and see how much you like.
remember you can have all the power in the world, but without the right suspension and experience, its all worthless. if your just starting out this would be they way to go.
my 2 cents
remember you can have all the power in the world, but without the right suspension and experience, its all worthless. if your just starting out this would be they way to go.
my 2 cents
MQ Dual Cab RB30 INJ well on its way....
LRP 4X4 FABRICATIONS; CALL 0417724127 FOR JUST ABOUT ANYTHING...
LRP 4X4 FABRICATIONS; CALL 0417724127 FOR JUST ABOUT ANYTHING...
From the input i have got i think. Building the engine up as is without the turbo is the go.
Any recommendation of a cam ? where can i get one from
Anybody got a standard computer and wiring loom they would like get rid off ?
Would i be best to skim the head or block to up the compression. what compression would be best.
I have no plans to keep the Rb30
Any recommendation of a cam ? where can i get one from
Anybody got a standard computer and wiring loom they would like get rid off ?
Would i be best to skim the head or block to up the compression. what compression would be best.
I have no plans to keep the Rb30
Anything is possible, it just comes down to time and money.
Ferals build www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic164570.php
Ferals build www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic164570.php
Umm.. impossible???? or not cost effectively?Z()LTAN wrote:impossible to get a tb42 at 400+hp NA
even on methanol and NOS
not with a bit of porting, a cam and methanol and nos sure...
with offset ground billet crank, H beam rods, lightweight forgies, big titanium valves, roller cam, tuned intake runners, tuned exhaust, decent ECU, ect u would see over 400HP easily... would cost 50G or so but

Thrashed '90 Leaf spring Maverick ute, TD42, 2" EFS lift. 36 Swampers.
I don't understand why people go with a TB42 turbo setup. To get good power you need lots of boost which reduces drivability which is what is really wanted. Having power across 2000rpm doesn't make for something that is easy to drive. No denying the power they make as that is pretty well proven BUT power isn't verything.
An LS1 conversion would similar in cost and would give a better torque spread and less wieght!
Just my opinion and that is why I used a VH45 instead of a TB. With the VH I have power from about 2500 to 6000 but as soon as injectors are sorted that will be 7500. That means with standard Patrol gearing and 4.1 diffs it will do over 160k in low range. But 1st is still a very useable gear. I have no doubt for rock crawlng it is all wrong but for winch comps and off road races it is turning out very well.
But it is taking a serious change of driving style compared to the TD42T I took out!
An LS1 conversion would similar in cost and would give a better torque spread and less wieght!
Just my opinion and that is why I used a VH45 instead of a TB. With the VH I have power from about 2500 to 6000 but as soon as injectors are sorted that will be 7500. That means with standard Patrol gearing and 4.1 diffs it will do over 160k in low range. But 1st is still a very useable gear. I have no doubt for rock crawlng it is all wrong but for winch comps and off road races it is turning out very well.
But it is taking a serious change of driving style compared to the TD42T I took out!
93 Nissan Pathfinder / Terrano Turboed VH45, GQ Trans and T-case, coil overs, hydraulic winch and fair bit of other stuff. (Currently a pile of parts in the workshop)
A lot of comp guys are going car engines such as LS1'S but in my opinion you cant beat the 4.2,4.5 and 4.8 engines once they have a turbo on them.
they are designed from factory to be used in a 4wd application in the dirt, ,water and heat, not driving on bitumen roads getting revved to 6 grand.
Have a look at the arab's would a Bommodore motor drive more than 10 minutes with no air cleaner in the desert! Yet these guys are racing them in this environment.
In winch challenges How many LS1's and similar shit themselves once they hit the water, and how many nissan motors have problems??.
In the 8 day winch challenge most of the engine problems were car engines not nissan motors.
My opinion is go the nissan petrol and keep it simple with a turbo and you will have a stress free life.
I have a std 4.2 petrol with ems computer and it aint that much slower than a bombed 4.2 TB42 living on its limits, once the T3/T4 is on it i dont have that much hope for the diesels to keep up and i can ussure most car engines wont be as reliable.
And it aint impossible to get 400HP from any motor its only money thats needed!!
they are designed from factory to be used in a 4wd application in the dirt, ,water and heat, not driving on bitumen roads getting revved to 6 grand.
Have a look at the arab's would a Bommodore motor drive more than 10 minutes with no air cleaner in the desert! Yet these guys are racing them in this environment.
In winch challenges How many LS1's and similar shit themselves once they hit the water, and how many nissan motors have problems??.
In the 8 day winch challenge most of the engine problems were car engines not nissan motors.
My opinion is go the nissan petrol and keep it simple with a turbo and you will have a stress free life.
I have a std 4.2 petrol with ems computer and it aint that much slower than a bombed 4.2 TB42 living on its limits, once the T3/T4 is on it i dont have that much hope for the diesels to keep up and i can ussure most car engines wont be as reliable.
And it aint impossible to get 400HP from any motor its only money thats needed!!
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That's why I have a Nissan motor and not a Dunnydore!!!!
I won't question your opinion as it is based on observation and therefore very relevant but the LS1 has reliability issue in a car so that isn't a fair comparison!
Reliabilty is key for competitions.
"To finish first, first you must finish".
Is something that every competitor should have at the front of their mind when planning a truck. So going with a low stressed motor that doesn't have to work hard to produce the required power is ONE OPTION to achieve this. Obviously the TB has proved itself reliable but if you want an edge you need to do something different!
I won't question your opinion as it is based on observation and therefore very relevant but the LS1 has reliability issue in a car so that isn't a fair comparison!
Reliabilty is key for competitions.
"To finish first, first you must finish".
Is something that every competitor should have at the front of their mind when planning a truck. So going with a low stressed motor that doesn't have to work hard to produce the required power is ONE OPTION to achieve this. Obviously the TB has proved itself reliable but if you want an edge you need to do something different!
93 Nissan Pathfinder / Terrano Turboed VH45, GQ Trans and T-case, coil overs, hydraulic winch and fair bit of other stuff. (Currently a pile of parts in the workshop)
I don't have any experiance with TB42's, but for a budget build-up on any motor there are a few things you can do if your doing a rebuild anyway..
Bottom End
Balancing- this is key to getting a reliable engine
X-ray and shot peen the rods - not sure if rods are an issue in tb42's but this is cheap insurance.
find a good machiene shop - make sure your shop uses a torque plate when boring, checks that the mains are in line, and can line bore if not. ect.
rebuild the oil pump..
fit a windage tray - this can just be some mesh, curved and fitted into the sump, and will stop the big ends thrashing around at 4000rpm, from frothing the oil.
use the best quality pistons u can afford.. don't fit forged pistons to a daily driver though, as they expand alot when heated, and have to be fully warmed up to work, they will ware out the bores on a daily driver.
use top quality bearings and gaskets.
Top end
port match the inlet and exhaust manifolds, this is easy to do and will help heaps.
clean up the bowls in the port.. don't make the port or bowl bigger, as you WILL stuff the head... gust de-burr the port and clean up around the valve stem. don't get fancy, and remove the minimum amount of material possiable.
get a good 3 angle valve grind. <----- important...
get a profesional company to design a cam specifically for your application AFTER the engine (top end) has been dummy assembled (with a new head gasket) so you can measure max valve lift. ect.
descide on your fuel & compression ratio before you start, so you can get compression and squelch right the first time. (proper squelch is critical for an efficient engine.) grinding the combustion chamber to lower compression will stuff the swirl characteristics of the chamber.
roller rockers are over rated..
get good push rods though, if you use heavy valve springs.
probably a heap of other stuff i cant rember at the moment too...
hope this helps.
Bottom End
Balancing- this is key to getting a reliable engine
X-ray and shot peen the rods - not sure if rods are an issue in tb42's but this is cheap insurance.
find a good machiene shop - make sure your shop uses a torque plate when boring, checks that the mains are in line, and can line bore if not. ect.
rebuild the oil pump..
fit a windage tray - this can just be some mesh, curved and fitted into the sump, and will stop the big ends thrashing around at 4000rpm, from frothing the oil.
use the best quality pistons u can afford.. don't fit forged pistons to a daily driver though, as they expand alot when heated, and have to be fully warmed up to work, they will ware out the bores on a daily driver.
use top quality bearings and gaskets.
Top end
port match the inlet and exhaust manifolds, this is easy to do and will help heaps.
clean up the bowls in the port.. don't make the port or bowl bigger, as you WILL stuff the head... gust de-burr the port and clean up around the valve stem. don't get fancy, and remove the minimum amount of material possiable.
get a good 3 angle valve grind. <----- important...
get a profesional company to design a cam specifically for your application AFTER the engine (top end) has been dummy assembled (with a new head gasket) so you can measure max valve lift. ect.
descide on your fuel & compression ratio before you start, so you can get compression and squelch right the first time. (proper squelch is critical for an efficient engine.) grinding the combustion chamber to lower compression will stuff the swirl characteristics of the chamber.
roller rockers are over rated..
get good push rods though, if you use heavy valve springs.
probably a heap of other stuff i cant rember at the moment too...

hope this helps.
Thrashed '90 Leaf spring Maverick ute, TD42, 2" EFS lift. 36 Swampers.
Have not really decided on a budget. My aim would be somewhere between $2000-$4000. Bit of a gap I'm aware. If I can do it for $2000 great. If things blow out to $4000 or more for a good motor so be it.
This engine is mainly to get me started racing. hopefully things will go well and I will work up to something more serious ie tb48.
The Rb30 engines days are drawing to an end.
Should racing not work out for me a good tb42 will keep me happy for my weekend trips and not cost silly money. If the racing bug takes hold then I have a decent engine to sell or build further.
This engine is mainly to get me started racing. hopefully things will go well and I will work up to something more serious ie tb48.
The Rb30 engines days are drawing to an end.
Should racing not work out for me a good tb42 will keep me happy for my weekend trips and not cost silly money. If the racing bug takes hold then I have a decent engine to sell or build further.
Anything is possible, it just comes down to time and money.
Ferals build www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic164570.php
Ferals build www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic164570.php
AFeral wrote:Have not really decided on a budget. My aim would be somewhere between $2000-$4000. Bit of a gap I'm aware. If I can do it for $2000 great. If things blow out to $4000 or more for a good motor so be it.
This engine is mainly to get me started racing. hopefully things will go well and I will work up to something more serious ie tb48.
The Rb30 engines days are drawing to an end.
Should racing not work out for me a good tb42 will keep me happy for my weekend trips and not cost silly money. If the racing bug takes hold then I have a decent engine to sell or build further.
for that sort of money get the motor refreshed and balanced and a new cam, a fuel pump, and ingnition system if possible and good exhaust ... then don't be scared to let it rev


oh and get the cooling system upgraded as well
maybe get the head shaved too get the compression up
H( * )( * )NZ loves B( * )( * )BIES
if a fat lady falls in the forest do the trees laugh?
[quote="RUFF"]although i didnt mean to, i squealed like a girl :armsup:[/quote]
if a fat lady falls in the forest do the trees laugh?
[quote="RUFF"]although i didnt mean to, i squealed like a girl :armsup:[/quote]
if your only starting racing, why not try the RB to start and see how you go, if it blows, then go the TBAFeral wrote:Have not really decided on a budget. My aim would be somewhere between $2000-$4000. Bit of a gap I'm aware. If I can do it for $2000 great. If things blow out to $4000 or more for a good motor so be it.
This engine is mainly to get me started racing. hopefully things will go well and I will work up to something more serious ie tb48.
The Rb30 engines days are drawing to an end.
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