Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Hi all, I have a 95 pajero and Ive noticed that the oil in the auto trans is getting a little dark. Can I just drain and re fill the auto or does it need a service on it as well when the oil gets drained?
Also I am finding that the auto is holding second gear to long can this be due to old auto trans oil. Possible other gears are holding longer as well but really noticing it in second as it will hold 55kph in second unless I fully release the accelerator and then re accelerate. I have adjusted the kickdown cable out fully so it should kick up asap but it dont.
Cheers
Glenn

I know very little about autos, so feel free to ignore this:

Is there a filter in the auto? If there is, and it becomes substantially blocked, could a change in oil pressure affect gear shifts?

Changing oil in an auto is a complicated process. You need about 20 litres to flush through till it starts coming out clean. The engine has to be running.

You can drain the sump, but that's only about 40% of the oil.

There is a filter inside, probably could do with a clean. The sump pan needs to come off.

I didnt think about the filter. Think I might have to fork out the $ and get it done properly.
Cheers

Drop the output cooling line from the auto and start engine... The auto will pump almost all of its oil out.(preferably into a bucket) Turn off when oil flow slows right down but before it stops altogether.
Refit the line and remove the pan from the auto. Clean the grit out and place a magnet in there if it hasn't already got one.
Replace the flyscreen looking filter.
Refit the pan with new gasket (don't overtighten) and fill with oil. Run through gears and recheck. Top up if needed.
This method has always worked for me. It gets about 95% of the old oil out and is much easier and cleaner than dropping a pan that doesn't have a drain hole.
Even if the auto had burnt dark brown oil it will be bright red afterwards, not perfect but close.

does it matter if the oil is a different brand and a little mixed ?
cheers

want33s wrote:Drop the output cooling line from the auto and start engine... The auto will pump almost all of its oil out.(preferably into a bucket) Turn off when oil flow slows right down but before it stops altogether.
Refit the line and remove the pan from the auto. Clean the grit out and place a magnet in there if it hasn't already got one.
Replace the flyscreen looking filter.
Refit the pan with new gasket (don't overtighten) and fill with oil. Run through gears and recheck. Top up if needed.
This method has always worked for me. It gets about 95% of the old oil out and is much easier and cleaner than dropping a pan that doesn't have a drain hole.
Even if the auto had burnt dark brown oil it will be bright red afterwards, not perfect but close.

Running the engine till nearly all the auto oil has been pumped out runs the risk of picking up the torque convertor bush and possibly other problems, not advisable, always flush an auto by adding fresh stuff in place of what comes out, most flushing devices carry out the process this way.

swbpajero wrote:does it matter if the oil is a different brand and a little mixed ?
cheers

Doesnt matter what brand, as long as its DEXIII.
You will never get all of the old oil from the transmission without totally stripping it down, regular servicing is the only method for keeping your auto fluid nice and clean.
Every 40-50,000klms is advisable, as proposed by the makers of the transmission fluids and manufacturers of the internal components of an auto

sparky! wrote:

swbpajero wrote:does it matter if the oil is a different brand and a little mixed ?
cheers

Doesnt matter what brand, as long as its DEXIII.
You will never get all of the old oil from the transmission without totally stripping it down, regular servicing is the only method for keeping your auto fluid nice and clean.
Every 40-50,000klms is advisable, as proposed by the makers of the transmission fluids and manufacturers of the internal components of an auto

except the new auto's which specify no service intervals at all. Fluid is meant to last the life of the box.

sparky! wrote:

swbpajero wrote:does it matter if the oil is a different brand and a little mixed ?
cheers

Doesnt matter what brand, as long as its DEXIII.

That's for GM/holden autos and some Jap make autos.

Ford have a different type some jap use this as well.

Euros use a mix of the above 2 plus another different type.

There's a new type all together out now for the new autoboxes, I've been looking at the autobox oils for a little while now.

Then you move into synthetic ones as well.

best to check to make sure it's right type plus check to see what temps it should be.

what is advisable to use in a gq auto? the castrol site says to use transmax z but it is fully synthetic and costs $70 for 5L and the gq auto needs 13L..

sparky! wrote:
Running the engine till nearly all the auto oil has been pumped out runs the risk of picking up the torque convertor bush and possibly other problems, not advisable, always flush an auto by adding fresh stuff in place of what comes out, most flushing devices carry out the process this way.

I did hundreds if not thousands of autos in the exact manner described as recommended by VOLVO for all their Borg Warner autos when I was an apprentice.
Never chewed any convertor bushes.

swbpajero wrote:does it matter if the oil is a different brand and a little mixed ?
cheers

A different brand of oil won't be a problem as long as it the CORRECT TYPE of oil..
DEXRON III isn't a multi purpose trans fluid and should not be used in every trans.. Check manufacturers recommendation for correct type.

ausoops wrote:what is advisable to use in a gq auto? the castrol site says to use transmax z but it is fully synthetic and costs $70 for 5L and the gq auto needs 13L..

http://www.datateck.com.au/lube/castr_a ... Model=2465
Transmax is just a synthetic DexronIII replacement.. Mineral Dexron III should suffice but I'd check with a competent auto specialist that is familiar with this particular box first.

i used penrite brand when i did my gf vitara. the ring inside was taking long to change and sometimes it would go to neutral when u drove it first thing in the morning. i also added some nulon auto trans treatment and it worked a treat. pour it all through the dipstick. u will also have to replace the little filter thing inside and put a new seal. repco sell this as a pack. it was my 1st time doing it and it worked but now 6 months later its starting to take its time changing again? did i do it right or is the ring seal too hard inside therefore needing a reco?

i only undid the sump and let all the oil drip out, should i have started and ran the car to get more oil out? i put in 2.3 litres coz that what the suzuki manual and penrite manuals said plus the 300ml treatment. its on the full hot line on the dipstick when running the car.

want33s wrote:

sparky! wrote:
Running the engine till nearly all the auto oil has been pumped out runs the risk of picking up the torque convertor bush and possibly other problems, not advisable, always flush an auto by adding fresh stuff in place of what comes out, most flushing devices carry out the process this way.

I did hundreds if not thousands of autos in the exact manner described as recommended by VOLVO for all their Borg Warner autos when I was an apprentice.
Never chewed any convertor bushes.

Are we still talking about a 95 Pajero here or what?
ATF 3 IS THE SPECIFIED FLUID FOR THIS VEHICLE, DEXRON 3 IS A CASTROL PRODUCT WHICH IS SIMPLY ATF FLUID.
I to worked in a auto trans shop, and my boss STRESSED that an auto should not be run with the possibility of the pressurisation system being run dry, just like you dont run an engine without any oil, get it.
It is probably going to be an unlucky bugger that destroys there box doing this, but who wants to chance it huh, therefore NOT ADVISABLE.
I can only guess that you performed your volvo auto flushing with some kind of flushing machine, similar to what i used when flushing Subaru autos of all there DEX3 to change to TQ95 to eradicate a vibration issue.
Now you got me of the topic, DOH
And the new autos that dont require servicing crap has been around since the early 90's, BTR 4 speeds in falcon are notorious for blowing up due to not being serviced, thanks to fords little sticker on the pan.

gumtree wrote: i only undid the sump and let all the oil drip out, should i have started and ran the car to get more oil out? i put in 2.3 litres coz that what the suzuki manual and penrite manuals said plus the 300ml treatment. its on the full hot line on the dipstick when running the car.

Nar I think this is right for the home mechanic, I just looking through the factory book I have, it's not for a vitira, but it has the same deal what you did.

sparky! wrote:And the new autos that dont require servicing crap has been around since the early 90's, BTR 4 speeds in falcon are notorious for blowing up due to not being serviced, thanks to fords little sticker on the pan.

You're not wrong there mate, and they certaintly feel much nicer once you flush the burnt fluid out of them.

swbpajero wrote:Hi all, I have a 95 pajero and Ive noticed that the oil in the auto trans is getting a little dark. Can I just drain and re fill the auto or does it need a service on it as well when the oil gets drained?
Also I am finding that the auto is holding second gear to long can this be due to old auto trans oil. Possible other gears are holding longer as well but really noticing it in second as it will hold 55kph in second unless I fully release the accelerator and then re accelerate. I have adjusted the kickdown cable out fully so it should kick up asap but it dont.
Cheers
Glenn

Was this problem there before you adjusted the cable? It's a tv cable and they usually run in the mid range position not adjusted fully out, pajero is known for cable problems where the cable meets the throttle usually the the outer cover on the cable pull's out of the metal section with the nuts on it up near the throttle look here close! if all ok try adjusting cable again outer on cable should be adjusted so that the inner cable is tight not pulled out when the cable is in the throttle linkage if you cant get it right here some thing is wrong with the outer on the cable.