Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have a Gu ute.4.2 diesel
The gearbox is cracked both sides of the filler plug.
What are my options
Is there places that can weld CAST IRON

Do i start looking for another gearbox.IE:wreckers(sounds $$$)

Do i look at getting an auto$$$

Im near ingleburn sydney so if you know places that can weld cast iron???

Have you had a repair like this???

steve

I just rang a wrecker to get some prices and came up with at least $3000 for the gearbox.

Are there auto options out there.IE is there gu's in new zealand with autos
or GQs with 4.2d with autos.

also.i have only just put transfer gears in this one..so dont want to replace the transfer case too

Can be welded ok with a stick (with a cast iron rod) just grind it out, weld and, re tap the hole.. should be fine..

Do all internals have to come out,cause of heat and how long it takes to cool?

It is possible to weld cast and very succesfully if done right. But firstly why is the gearbox cracked in the first place?

RUFF wrote:It is possible to weld cast and very succesfully if done right. But firstly why is the gearbox cracked in the first place?

dont know.Mate thinks the last person to touch it overtightened it?

fwiw, I've been ringing wreckers to see what my TD-6 box is worth, and the last few they sold them for $1500-1900ish depending on wat wrecker

bogged wrote:fwiw, I've been ringing wreckers to see what my TD-6 box is worth, and the last few they sold them for $1500-1900ish depending on wat wrecker

I only rang one just to get an idea..He als o had one for 3500
If i had to pay that sort of $$$ i would look to see if there was an auto option

thunder wrote:

bogged wrote:fwiw, I've been ringing wreckers to see what my TD-6 box is worth, and the last few they sold them for $1500-1900ish depending on wat wrecker

I only rang one just to get an idea..He als o had one for 3500
If i had to pay that sort of $$$ i would look to see if there was an auto option

Sellin my manual I'd be happy to take $1500-1900 or offa.

Arent GU/GQ 4.2 petty and diesel manual boxes all the same:?:
You see plenty on here sell for around $600 including the transfer.

You would be crazy to pay much more than that Id reckon

id just weld it while its in the car... but im rough i don't think the heat would be a real problem. If its only cracked from overtightening, theres always the option to ignore it, but once a crack has developed in cast it usually gets worse... id just grind it out a bit ( not all the way through) and weld it.. will stop it getting worse if nothing else.. got to be better than $3500

Sandy Rut wrote:Arent GU/GQ 4.2 petty and diesel manual boxes all the same:?:
You see plenty on here sell for around $600 including the transfer.

You would be crazy to pay much more than that Id reckon

Mate in a GQ has the man but looks different to mine..

WE are going to have it welded or going to look for another case only..if it looks like it will cost too much;i will look at other options.
If its expensive then i would rather put the $$$$ towards an auto.

i have worked with cast b4 and if u use a cast iron rod the job has to be heated then very slowly cooled to avoid this u can use a stainless steel electrode 316l grind a nice prep and weld in place they are pretty easy rod to use

you can also use weldall, have repaird engine blocks with this that have thrown rods. how bad is it cracked, can it be tapped to a bigger plug? BSPT?

nastytroll wrote:you can also use weldall, have repaird engine blocks with this that have thrown rods. how bad is it cracked, can it be tapped to a bigger plug? BSPT?

no ...about an inch to each side of the filler hole..It may look like the best option is to find a case cheap.i only need 1 section of it.

Steve

The main difference between yours and mine is mine has the plate on the side which I think is for PTO.
I know mine has 6 Bolts holding the bellhousing to the adaptor plate but there is 2 bolt holes a bit further out than the bottom 2 bolts That are not used .In my bellhousing one of the holes is tapped the other is clearance. In Steves both the holes are clearance (not tapped)
Can anyone on here shed some light as I always thought these boxes were all the same between GQ/GU.

Paul

I dont know exactly thr difference but Kim Bolten was running (I think still is) a gq box with pto for a hydrolic winch, I'm no sure but I think the difference would be the top housing for the gear stick. You may be able to change from the cast section up gu to gq.

bogged wrote:

thunder wrote:

bogged wrote:fwiw, I've been ringing wreckers to see what my TD-6 box is worth, and the last few they sold them for $1500-1900ish depending on wat wrecker

I only rang one just to get an idea..He als o had one for 3500
If i had to pay that sort of $$$ i would look to see if there was an auto option

Sellin my manual I'd be happy to take $1500-1900 or offa.

I'd be making an offer to Bogged!
What year GU is damaged one?
as in, is it the one with the weak 5th gear setup?
cheers

JWB wrote:

bogged wrote:

thunder wrote:

bogged wrote:fwiw, I've been ringing wreckers to see what my TD-6 box is worth, and the last few they sold them for $1500-1900ish depending on wat wrecker

I only rang one just to get an idea..He als o had one for 3500
If i had to pay that sort of $$$ i would look to see if there was an auto option

Sellin my manual I'd be happy to take $1500-1900 or offa.

I'd be making an offer to Bogged!
What year GU is damaged one?
as in, is it the one with the weak 5th gear setup?
cheers

2004

the other difference between a GQ and GU gearbox is the top of the box where the shifter is, on a GQ it is taller, we had a look at it while doing an engine conversion in a GU, i do know the GQ shifter will end up under the heater box,

i think we had to buy a GU box because we couldnt just get the top section to put on the GQ box, in saying that im not even sure if it would bolt on,

when we boughtthe GU box i think we paid about $1900 for a low kay box, from a late 02 ute,

I would just get it welded, but i would definately get it done professionally by someone who knows what theyre doing. You cant just grind it out and weld it as the crack will just develop again. Like ya have to find the end of the crack, drill a hole through the end to stop the crack in its tracks, then grind it out, heat it properly, reweld, etc etc etc