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Gen 3 V8 GU Conversion

Posted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 9:57 am
by muz84
G'day Tech Heads

I have a 98 GU Ti and have just purchased a gen 3 and a manual gear box and are about to start doing the conversion any help would be greatly appreciated.
Check out my rig. http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh246/muz84/
DOes any one have the answeres to these questions

1. will the standard 4.5 feul pump be sufficient to supply the 5.7

2. I have purchased the rear bowl sump, How much does it need to be modified

3. engine adaptor kit, i was going to use marks because i have used them before, what else is there, are there better ones

4. engine mounting to chassis, whats the best kit, will it still allow for the motor fan to sit in the center of the shourd (if i use the marks 4wd fan kit)

5. Is there enough room to run the exhaust from the drivers side over the top of the bell housing or is this not recomended

6. has anyone put turbos on there gen3, Is there enough room

7. where can i get wiring diagrams for the 05 vz commodore

8. what has been done for a radiator, i need td42 end tanks on my radiator to swap input and out put sides, where can i get these

9. Are the standard commodore power steering pumps suficient to supply the patrol steering box, i run 35inch tyres

10. has anyone done the manual conversion before, does the wiring loom on the manual box simply just plug up or are other wiring mods required

11. Wen i remove the 4.5 and auto does the engine wiring harness come out of the car withe the computer as one complete unit

12. is there any parts of the 4.5 and auto wiring harness still needed for the conversion

As i come across problems i will update this post. So if you have done the conversion before keep checking this thread.

Thanks muzza

Posted: Thu Jan 10, 2008 11:11 pm
by muz84
Just been doing some research and have found that the aircon compressor of the gen 3 will foul on the drivers side chassis rail and that people have been relocating their alternators to the top of the engine as well. Can anyine tell me if this kit below would rectify this problem and can we purchase it through GM australia. it is a whole accessory drive kit from a ls1 corvette. Does this actually move the compressor 1" closer, it looks like it goes higher too.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS1-Cama ... QQtcZphoto

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 1:08 am
by muz84
apprently the corvette kit does not move the compressor closer to the block but moves it closer to the transmission. I think i have just found the solution to my AC problem, now i just have to get the alternator up top as well to keep it dry and clean (hopefully)
AC compressor bracket kit
http://www.youngsfbody.com/inc/sdetail/12165

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 2:51 am
by BigMav
Sorry can't help with the questions but this guy is doing the same conversion he might know some of the answers.

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/phpBB2/vi ... hlight=gen

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 5:46 am
by PGS 4WD
Have done one into a GU for a customer(std type tow vehicle), We modified the A/C to fit int std Gen3 location but was a lot of work. I also have a GQ turbo as my personal car(no A/C). Passenger exhaust went forward in that but I believe the manual adapter pushes the engine forward and you may get the exhaust over the bell housing, it'll be hot though. Both these vehicle run 4L80E. Am doing one at present, GU comp truck, again auto, have moved engine back and am remaking trans X-member and tailshafts etc.

Joel

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 10:17 am
by matto
1 if the standard fuel pump doesn't work then get an inline pump and a regulator not to hard.
2. depends on the lift i've got a 5"lift and i wont need any mods plus the sumps are cast not sheet metal so cuts and welds are hard.
3. Ive used marks, instructions are crap but atleast them make a kit.
4.I'm trying to make this myself if you use a marks kit you still need to make the chassis bracket.
5. before you put the engine in it looks like there is heaps of room to run the exhaust over the top but once engines in you have electrical cables and fuel lines to worry about.
6. lots of people have put turbos on ls1's but only in gq's what iv'e seen.

thats all i know, there is a good build up on the the 4wd action forum site from a bloke who put one in his swb gq. it looks alot easier than a gu.

VZ wiring diagrams

Posted: Fri Jan 11, 2008 3:03 pm
by muz84
Found some diagrams for a vz commodore

http://s258.photobucket.com/albums/hh24 ... 0diagrams/

Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 6:41 pm
by gouldy
some answers to your questions

1 )no. will be ok to use as a lift pump to a surge tank and you will need an inline pump such as a bosh 040 and a regulator - these fuel systems require 58psi.

2) if its a truck sump no mods are required. If its a camaro sump a slight mod to the fromt is required.

3) I used Dellow, Its a better set up which is closer to standard. Marks uses extension shafts which has been known to be a problem.
With the dellow the fire wall on a GQ will need a slight massage with a hammer to clear the heads.

4) make your own using GQ trailing arm bushes . I dont think there is a fan kit available from Marks as a gen3 commodore does not have the correct waterpump pulley to mount a fan.

5) Barely

6) why bother

7) use a marks wiring loom or try a commodore wreckers and get a compitent sparky to modify it.

8) I used Ausie desert cooler and fans. Cheaper than PWR and work very well.

9) yes

10) No wires to be changed to fit the gen3 up to the manual box

11) yes

12) no


Hope this helps

Cheers
Gouldy

Posted: Wed May 14, 2008 12:20 pm
by benhl
Bump :armsup:

Posted: Thu May 15, 2008 9:44 pm
by killalux
I have wired a couple of gen3 into GQ and GU, there would be no room to run the xhuast over the bellhousing, the 2 i did had the right hand exhaust go forward in front of the sump, then both run down the passenger side of the truck.
truck sump doesn't need to be modified.
i would use a performance type fuel pump, standard systems run around 35psi, gen3 is around 60psi, stock pump won't last. Also remember you need a pressure reg as the gen3 doesn't have one on the engine.

For the wiring, if you send me your harness i can mod it for you so it's a simple 6 wires to connect, this will cost you $450.

steve

Posted: Fri May 16, 2008 11:29 pm
by PGS 4WD
I ran the exhaust forward and around also. The fuel flow rates can be modified in software regarding the operating pressure but 4 bar is std for a Gen3 with no manifold reference to the regulator. In regards to radiator I have used the Commodore radiator and fans, it is easier to mount the radiator and fans from the commodore than fit fans to a GU rad and its made for the engine and is alloy. Also you can use standard Commodore hoses, no stuffing around.


Joel

Posted: Sun Nov 30, 2008 10:00 pm
by muz84

Posted: Sun Nov 30, 2008 10:08 pm
by lewie
muz84 ooooooooo f$#k yeah that gu will do back flips gealous as, looks like alot of good work though

Posted: Sun Nov 30, 2008 10:20 pm
by muz84
lewie wrote:muz84 ooooooooo f$#k yeah that gu will do back flips gealous as, looks like alot of good work though
to much work. not enough time or money

Posted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 6:51 am
by TheBigBoy
WOW!!! Twin turbo's. Lets hope it holds up ;). Yep Im running a 500hp fuel pump on mine. Only just keeps up.
Ps. Mines a GU

Posted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 9:39 pm
by GRINCH
PGS 4WD wrote:I ran the exhaust forward and around also. The fuel flow rates can be modified in software regarding the operating pressure but 4 bar is std for a Gen3 with no manifold reference to the regulator. In regards to radiator I have used the Commodore radiator and fans, it is easier to mount the radiator and fans from the commodore than fit fans to a GU rad and its made for the engine and is alloy. Also you can use standard Commodore hoses, no stuffing around.


Joel
how does the commodore radiator handle keeping the motor cool off road ?

Posted: Mon Dec 01, 2008 10:24 pm
by bogged
TheBigBoy wrote:WOW!!! Twin turbo's. Lets hope it holds up ;)
yea Im not really sure why, the Gen 3 should be sufficent in stock trim.

What manual box is it your running?

Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 1:04 pm
by Hulksta
I'll be watching this :D

Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 2:18 pm
by bogged
Hulksta wrote:I'll be watching this :D
on another forum, he mentioned 450kw.

again, why you need that offroad Im not quite sure, unless its a pure comp truck.

Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 6:38 pm
by AFeral
I think of one good reason

It would be a lot of FUN !

Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 6:57 pm
by muz84
stock manual out of 4.5 patrol

and you can never have enough power

power ratings at the motor will be equivilant to these kits from ls1 turbo

http://www.ls1turbo.com.au/au/vtvz_gentt.html

Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 12:09 am
by Hulksta
bogged wrote:
Hulksta wrote:I'll be watching this :D
on another forum, he mentioned 450kw.

again, why you need that offroad Im not quite sure, unless its a pure comp truck.
I just like the fact someone is doing something a bit different, i get bored with reading the same shit all the time ;)

As for the power... i guess im a fool too as im building a 5.0L atm with a 9000+rpm redline for my 4b :roll:

Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 9:53 am
by TheBigBoy
Im just running the stock patrol manual 5 speed in mine. Ive got 300bhp. But Ive heard from ALOT of people that boosting the gen 3 with stock internals they do pop. The heat factor with them plays a bit part. Im going to supercharge intercool mine but only running 5-7psi. My mate who has a 80 series cruiser has a gen 3. All he did was get a cam and matched heads and has 450 bhp. But cruiser drivelines alway produce more than patrol. In otherwords, you lose less pwr.

Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 6:41 pm
by PGS 4WD
Its certainly not a problem, I cammed a VZ ute with a twin APS turbo kit and that made 380 rwKW on a stock short motor, and have supercharged a number of LS1's to 300 rwkW, my vehicle only makes 325 rwkW as I don't want to break the input shaft on the 4l80e trans. Keep a number of things in mind. There is insuffient strenght in the deck of the block and the the heads to accomodate much power beyond 400 rwkW, expect to blow head gaskets as the block will distort between the head bolts, the stock crank in a forced induction applitation will be OK for about 600 engine HP, roughly 360-380kW at the wheels before it wil fatigue and break. So all you need is an World block that has a 5 bolt pattern and the extra webbing so the block dosent bend like a banana, world heads that accomodate the 5 bolt pattern, turbo's fuel system and so on. Add that to forged pistons and rods and it all should come in just under $40k, but only if you want it to last.

Cheers

Joel

Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 9:01 am
by petri
killalux wrote:I have wired a couple of gen3 into GQ and GU, there would be no room to run the xhuast over the bellhousing, the 2 i did had the right hand exhaust go forward in front of the sump, then both run down the passenger side of the truck.
steve
Hey, what size pipe did u use?

Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 11:06 am
by bogged
PGS 4WD wrote:Its certainly not a problem, I cammed a VZ ute with a twin APS turbo kit and that made 380 rwKW on a stock short motor, and have supercharged a number of LS1's to 300 rwkW, my vehicle only makes 325 rwkW as I don't want to break the input shaft on the 4l80e trans. Keep a number of things in mind. There is insuffient strenght in the deck of the block and the the heads to accomodate much power beyond 400 rwkW, expect to blow head gaskets as the block will distort between the head bolts, the stock crank in a forced induction applitation will be OK for about 600 engine HP, roughly 360-380kW at the wheels before it wil fatigue and break. So all you need is an World block that has a 5 bolt pattern and the extra webbing so the block dosent bend like a banana, world heads that accomodate the 5 bolt pattern, turbo's fuel system and so on. Add that to forged pistons and rods and it all should come in just under $40k, but only if you want it to last.

Cheers

Joel
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
Joel wins the tech again

Posted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 6:43 pm
by killalux
petri wrote:
killalux wrote:I have wired a couple of gen3 into GQ and GU, there would be no room to run the xhuast over the bellhousing, the 2 i did had the right hand exhaust go forward in front of the sump, then both run down the passenger side of the truck.
steve
Hey, what size pipe did u use?
Not sure what size pipe was used on those trucks, i only wired them. On my cruiser i was able to go down each side of the gearbox. i used twin 2.5" into single 3"

Posted: Tue Dec 09, 2008 4:37 pm
by NutterGQ
hey guys, I was down at Marks 4x4 today having a look at a GQ chassis they have setup, its running Gen3 with bolt on headers, engine mounts and accessory relocation kit, yeah all a bit pricey but certainly fits and looks nice, so for those of you who cant be frucked fabricating stuff may be worth a look.