Outer Limits 4x4 Board

im going with a mate to look at a jimny for him, what should i look out for that is suzuki or jimny specific? good and bad point appreciated

If used for real off road, some of the rear suspension mounts can crack.
Not sure of tech names, but the bars that locate the diff and axles type mounts.

just look for scratch's on the chassis noear the rear control arm mount, they get hooked up on this all the time. so if it's done some real 4wding there will be marks.

it will have flogged out wheel bearings on the front, and these will have choo'd out the hubs and stubs. they all do it. so see if there are any recipts for work done.

cheack the rear wheel bearings as these are weak as piss, if its been used, they'll need replacing as will the rear break shoes

the front auto hubs fail all the time, if the 4x4 light is flashing there is most likely an air leek (easy to fix). but if the front wont spin-up, then the problem can be real hard to track down. easy way is to fit manual hubs then the problem is gone forever

if its a G series motor the cam sensor can give issues, this is known by Suzuki, the sensors are cheap and easy to replace
if its a M series motor the ckank sensor will make the car "sluggish" like its not getting enough fuel. this is also known by suzuki.

the CV's are made of glass, as is the rear diff, all the rear diffs in the wreakers have broken pinions, this can be caused by the "cross pins" Floating and catching the pinion on the way past.

check the control arms to see if they are streight, some people have bent them, and i think that mine has a "wave" in it.

if its a series 1 (G motor) also check the front shock mounts on the diff as these "rip off" easy, this was later fixed with the series 2.

the bushes in the front pan hard rod flogg out and will give a "funny" knocking sound at low speed manuvers with full lock one way then the other.



there is more but i just can't think of it right now.

happy hunting


Mitch

Mitch said it bettererer

Doublepost

mugginsmoo wrote: the CV's are made of glass, as is the rear diff,

Steve.

This is a good start to a car shopping guide for the bible
Peter.

so uhh.... are there any good points?? lol

Other then that they're a great little car hey mitch

Jimny over a speed hump at more than 15-20km/h equals

what are they like offroad? i heard that they are based around the old sierra sunning gear...

hell no!

they drive all right, they are a bit nose heavy, and tend to sit on the front. good for climbing but can be real scary coming down and on serious off-cambers. you will get used to it though.

you won't get used to breaking CV's, i've done 4 in the last 4 trips , there are no second hand ones in Melb, 'cause i've eaten them . there is no upgrade without doing custom work. i bought a sierra because of the front end issues, however i do know how to up-grade the front, but it'll have to wait until my sierra is finished.

a 30" tire is a Sensible tire any more and you will break shit.
you will want gearing and lockers, they work well with a front locker, better than only having a rear.

Mitch

so abit of casual offroading should be fine then? coz thats all he wants it for, hes not into the harder stuff, just to tag along on our easier trips

it'll be sweet as, but the bug will bite and at that moment you have to grab him and show him a sierra.

Gee-zuss... after reading the list of issues they have, I must've been very lucky with Stimpy

Only real problems were the little air line for the front hub going once - quick fix with $2.00 worth of tube - and the rear bearing going, causing the axle to drift out (caused by using a non-genuine bearing).

No torn shock mounts or CV issues... and Podge used to give Stimpy a pretty hard time of it offroad...

He did have the usually crank sensor hiccup that all Series 1 had, and the water pump went at 90k... but nothing else really
Stimpy always felt tippy on angles, but a 3" bodylift and 4" suspension will do that.

From what I have seen of Mugginsmoo's and others, they are happy on a 30" tyre and with some subtle guard work will run that tyre with very little lift. With a locker, they are quite capable.

IMHO get an auto, they're a good little auto and having it will reduce the need to regear the transfer case (expensive) or fit a gear drive case from a sierra and regear that (not expensive, but fiddly and difficult to get 100%)

Muggins is right that they work well with a front locker, but my take on this is that that loads the CV's more heavily, and they are both weak and hard to find.

Just my 2C

Steve.

so what happens when the crank sensor fails?? i have a g13bb in my sierra just interested at what i should look out for.

Sam

Been out with mugginsmoo and it suprised me alot! His is set up VERY well...... Do you want some pics of that trip up mugginsmoo?

spamwell wrote:so what happens when the crank sensor fails?? i have a g13bb in my sierra just interested at what i should look out for.

Sam

Crank sensor tells the computer when to tell the coil packs to fire.
Without a crank sensor there's no spark.
No spark, no go.

suzuki boy wrote:Been out with mugginsmoo and it suprised me alot! His is set up VERY well...... Do you want some pics of that trip up mugginsmoo?

Here's a photo from a recent trip we did with Muggins... It's a photo of the rear diff and CV....





Seriously, Muggins car is very capable, but he has had a horrendous run of failures for the gearing and tyre size he's running. As he says, at about a 30" tyre and respecting the car it's fine. If you want to run with built sierras though, they turn to glass.

Steve.

i'm thinking that the sierra stuff i have will look like that after a few runs in DOOF.

Suziki boy, i'd love some pics

want33s, thay will still run with a crook crank sensor, but they won't run well. that cam sensor tells that coils when to fire. and the crank sensor gets the timing exact.
with a bad crank sensor, they feel as if they have run out of fuel, they have no guts, well even less that the 13 Squirrels they normaly have

spamwell wrote:so what happens when the crank sensor fails?? i have a g13bb in my sierra just interested at what i should look out for.

Sam

Stimpy occassionally "hiccuped" under load... but no other dramas. It never really bothered me, I just pushed in the clutch and tapped the accelerator, released the clutch and it stopped.

Heres the pics of mugginsmoo on about 31's i think?

Drove out of this! Done the same in mine with some body damage!



Just when he broke a rear axel! Lucky he had a spare and had it changed in about 15 minutes!




Thats all i got of that trip hopefully wheel with you again when i'm in the club!

This is my Jimny, it can go where the Big Toys go, sometimes it leaves the big toys wondering at the bottom of a hill, or in a bog hole, and it will Just keep going.

It has a 4 inch lift, heavy duty control arm and the secret weapon, an ARB rear air locker + 31" maxxis trepadore M/T's.

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a reef wrote:This is my Jimny, it can go where the Big Toys go, sometimes it leaves the big toys wondering at the bottom of a hill, or in a bog hole, and it will Just keep going.

It has a 4 inch lift, heavy duty control arm and the secret weapon, an ARB rear air locker + 31" maxxis trepadore M/T's.

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4 inch with 31 hmm a reef you need to visit us at suzuki club. We can show you other ways to setup a jimny and share ideals etc. I'm with others hmm. 30's with gearing and locked would be very nice. I've got 30 and the rear locked and had no problems. If you do locked both end gearing WILL be needed. Mugginsmoo knows his jims do read what he has the say.

Rob

Jimny's are Great little 4wd's when you compare apples with apples they rate well, remember, someone like Mugginsmoo, would have a long list of breakages cause he probably is often the one in a group who will drive the furthest up a track, the soccer mum with the jimny could do over 200000 km's to the field with just services in a jim. everything has its faults. in the 8 years of driving my jim my list of breakages come close to Mugginsmoo, the places I've dragged that little car I'm not supprised so many things have broken. saying that, a mate with a heavily modded Landcruiser Tray back has a brakage list just as long as mine, but his repair bills in most cases are double. If ya gonna play prepare to pay.

Jimny's are Great little 4wd's when you compare apples with apples they rate well, remember, someone like Mugginsmoo, would have a long list of breakages cause he probably is often the one in a group who will drive the furthest up a track, the soccer mum with the jimny could do over 200000 km's to the field with just services in a jim. everything has its faults. in the 8 years of driving my jim my list of breakages come close to Mugginsmoo, the places I've dragged that little car I'm not supprised so many things have broken. saying that, a mate with a heavily modded Landcruiser Tray back has a brakage list just as long as mine, but his repair bills in most cases are double. If ya gonna play prepare to pay.

yes, gman79au i agree with your comment. If we push ourselves and the cars over the usuall limits, everything is always expected to break or bend, etc. Even if we replace the weakest parts in the vehicles with the strongest available, something else will always break. But thats' part of offroading. The question is how do we not break anything if we push it to the limit.
The answer is, STOP BEFORE IT DOES! "choose a different line!" or stop completely and turn back, heheh............ but what fun would that be?

As for macca81, every car has their own good and bad points so look out for anything, but if you buy and build a jimny, you need to build it with the best parts available all at once to stop you from having further problems as you build on. The problem with jimny's is similar to that of the Jeep's, so you must build it completely in the first place.
As i have learned, do not add on as you go. Trust me, it wont work, building it all at once will cost you alot of money and time, but that's the way it is.

a reef wrote: The answer is, STOP BEFORE IT DOES! "choose a different line!" or stop completely and turn back, heheh............ but what fun would that be?

you need to build it with the best parts available all at once to stop you from having further problems as you build on. The problem with jimny's is similar to that of the Jeep's, so you must build it completely in the first place.
As i have learned, do not add on as you go. Trust me, it wont work, building it all at once will cost you alot of money and time, but that's the way it is.

OK, say I trust you. Please explain how to build the front end with the best parts available to ensure that CV's and inner axles do not snap like twigs, or are we supposed to know when a CV is going to go before hand and "STOP BEFORE IT DOES"

Mugginsmoo broke a front CV and rear R&P on an obstacle driving gently. I hammered through the same obstacle, all wheels up and giving it hate. Muggins is running about 4:1 transfer, locked front and rear, 32" MTR's. I'm running a 660, 34" swampers, welded rear, and when I hit that obstacle, I already had two cracked teeth on the crownwheel.

The jimny had major breakage with a reasonably small tyre, driven gently.

Please explain how these driveline issues can be overcome by buying more expensive parts?
Judging by your post on the hilux spring thread, it doesn't involve non suzuki parts :?::?:

Steve.

Every chain has it's weakest link, might as well make it the cheapest easiest to replace and be done with it.

I've broken a cv in a dirt carpark, I just think of the punishment it was given before hand. 32in tyres are way to big for jimny unless you live in an area where it rains most of the year and all you drive is mud, I've been running stock tyres with 3inch lift 2in body looks stupid but hey not breakages, this is a record since when it was new when it also had stock tyres on it. is there a pattern forming here? I wouldn't go bigger than 215 series tyres of max 30x9.5 keep them narrow.