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hilux fronts in the rear

Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 3:46 pm
by tjm_tj
over the next few days i will be putting hilux fronts in the rear of my wt zook
i will be moving the fuel tank into the tub making up shock mounts, extending the drivshaft and brake line
is there any other things i'm missing apart from relocating the wheel arch to suit

Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 4:50 pm
by want33s
I don't know what springs you have fitted but usually the spring limits articulation before the shocks.
Fitting hilux shocks won't help much IMHO.

Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 5:08 pm
by nicbeer
33's - he is talking about hilux springs in the back.

may have to mod spring mounts also as they are longer and wider than zooks

Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 5:15 pm
by want33s
nicbeer wrote:33's - he is talking about hilux springs in the back.

may have to mod spring mounts also as they are longer and wider than zooks
OK.. If the question was worded more clearly I might have understood it then :roll: and been able to help a bit more.
Zook springs are 50mm wide.... Hilux are 60mm

Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 7:12 pm
by Gwagensteve
You'll probably need to extend the chassis to move the shackle hanger back.

A hilux front will have HEAPS more rate than a sierra rear - some of that rate comes from the number and thickness of leaves, but also from the width.

The added width will also mean you have to rework the chassis end spring mount.

SPOA or SPUA?

(I'm not being a d1ck, what were you trying achieve? Wheelbase, travel?)

Steve.

Posted: Sun Jan 13, 2008 8:57 pm
by alien
having lux fronts all round on mine (SPOA), i can tell you the rear hanger and front spring hanger both have to be ground off - however the rear of the chassis needs no extension, you just put your new hanger RIIIIIGHT at the back (flush with the rear of the chassis), this means the front hanger also moves forward, the chassis mount that holds the stock hanger is no good, only 20mm of the new one will touch it, so youll need to fab up an extension there with gusseting back to the rails.

It would be advisable to talk to an engineer first to see how they would expect it to be done in a safe way - alternatively, PM me and i can see if i can source you some photos. (zuk is having severe electrical work done all next week though, so youll have to wait a while).

Also - from experience, its far easier to do this if the body is off the chassis - laying under the thing and trying to weld upwards is NOT ideal. lol

As for spring rate, theyre actually very similar... drop the load leaf from the pack and youll find the extra length counteracts the thickness and width - mine drives extremely well round corners (better than my 95 mazda 323!) and while its a bumpier ride, its still a zuk - and it has no trouble flexing.

Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 8:18 pm
by tjm_tj
sorry about the confusion guys..
they are hilux front leafs.

before anyone flames me... it is not a road going car

the idea of this was to gain both travel and wheelbase, whilst doing it on the cheap, as i had the springs already i thought why not...

i reworked the front hangers today and mounted the leafs in.
i plan to run a 90% droop setup, i made up some 180mm rear shackles that mount to the stock rear mounts, the hangers lay flat along the chassy on a bumpstop plate i fabed up.
this setup gives me about 2 to 3 inchs more wheelbase
tomorrow i will make up the new plates for the u-bolts so that i can test flex it, than i can make up the new bumpstop plates on the chassy and sort out some shock mounts.
then all i have to do is alter the driveshaft to suit,relocate the fuel tank and trim the gaurds to suit

the best part is that with this setup it only sits about 1" over stock
p.s. this is spring under setup

ok... just let me put on the flame suit on

Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 8:24 pm
by over land 4x4
can you tell me why this is no good for the road

Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 8:31 pm
by Gwagensteve
Sounds good to me - I like droop Mmmmm droop :cool:

Are you running some sort of whacky shackle though - I'm confused about what happens when the shackle lays flat against the chassis? normally, this can result in the suspension locking up.

Steve.

Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 8:46 pm
by cj
Gwagensteve wrote:Sounds good to me - I like droop Mmmmm droop :cool:

Are you running some sort of whacky shackle though - I'm confused about what happens when the shackle lays flat against the chassis? normally, this can result in the suspension locking up.

Steve.
Thanks for the quote :armsup: :D

Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 8:53 pm
by tjm_tj
yes, a whacky shackle it is...

the 180mm shackle lays flat along the chassy and a stock lenght shackle joins it to the leaf. i still have to finish off the anti inversion part of the shackles though

is anyone here running this setup?

Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 8:57 pm
by 11_evl
yep

Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 9:04 pm
by tjm_tj
11_evl,
did you relocate your fuel tank or did you alter the shape of it to alow the diff to clear it?

Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 9:41 pm
by a reef
Every time I hear or read of a Suzuki 4wd using other brand's part's my heart bleeds, why can't we use Genuine Suzuki parts and not these Mongrel brand's parts?? :cry:
please guys, when it comes to building Suzuki, never build cheaply. If you build a Suzuki cheaply the job will most likely be C**P (no offence).
Suzuki + Modifications = need a good Bank Balance or a platinum credit card.

Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 9:54 pm
by 11_evl
i havnt streched mine yet. using mazda springs and diff location is std. to account for longer springs i did use drop shackles. front and rear.

Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 9:54 pm
by tjm_tj
pfft..... it's not my a-game rig and i'm not a zook purist by any means

my loyalty lies with no brand,
each to there own ;)

Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 10:04 pm
by Gwagensteve
a reef wrote:Every time I hear or read of a Suzuki 4wd using other brand's part's my heart bleeds, why can't we use Genuine Suzuki parts and not these Mongrel brand's parts?? :cry:
please guys, when it comes to building Suzuki, never build cheaply. If you build a Suzuki cheaply the job will most likely be C**P (no offence).
Suzuki + Modifications = need a good Bank Balance or a platinum credit card.
WTF?

dude, your posts don't make any sense. Do you have suzuki genuine part 4" lift springs, HD radius arms or a locking rear diff? He's talking about springs, who cares what the original application was for - if he's willing to do the work to fit them?

Steve.

Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 10:07 pm
by Kitika
To fit longer springs in the back of my swb (springs measure 500mm-800mm either side of the pin.) I fabbed up a bolt on mount sort of like what NicBeer has in his members thread. Doing this helped me make sure the shackle angle was where i wanted it etc. I had tried to drive on wacky shackles but they would hit my rear bumper and unload at the worst of times. I dont have photos of my set up yet tho.

Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 10:10 pm
by tjm_tj
i have made up rubber bumps for the wakkies and i plan on pining them shut for general duties, then just pop the pins out for crawling

i will put up pic's when its done

Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 10:16 pm
by just cruizin'
a reef wrote:Every time I hear or read of a Suzuki 4wd using other brand's part's my heart bleeds, why can't we use Genuine Suzuki parts and not these Mongrel brand's parts?? :cry:
please guys, when it comes to building Suzuki, never build cheaply. If you build a Suzuki cheaply the job will most likely be C**P (no offence).
Suzuki + Modifications = need a good Bank Balance or a platinum credit card.
WTF?

Man it's a Suzuki, the whole thing was designed cheap.


Oh, the sarcasm is deafening. For a minute I thought you wanted me to spend money on my zook rather then booty fab the "crap" out of it. :oops: sorry did I say a bad word :oops: :finger:

Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 12:00 am
by alien
Image
flex with lux fronts all round (note the block of wood on the rear diff that fell off the jack - oops!) on 31" tyres and 190mm over stock height (including tyres).

measures 760mm travel in rear and 650 i think on front?

Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 5:33 am
by 11_evl
hey alien, try using that engine crane in the background and a old seat belt, much safer

Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 8:18 am
by alien
hindsight is always 20/20 =) hehe we'd just finished the last weld on the spring hangers and were excited to flex it... we only did it once... lol the roof of the zuk was also like 2mm from the storage thing on the ceiling too.

Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 7:08 pm
by ofr57
i remember reading somewhere on here that an old model hilux rear spring
measures the same one side an longer on the other side :? an same width as an serria spring too

or is this hard facts from fantasy fabrications :cry:

Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 7:33 pm
by alien
sounds like crud to me... 2 different length springs on the rear would cause all sorts of weird issues.

From memory a lux front is 120mm longer than a zuk front leaf, a lux rear is longer still...

Posted: Wed Jan 16, 2008 12:01 am
by zookimal
alien wrote:sounds like crud to me... 2 different length springs on the rear would cause all sorts of weird issues.

From memory a lux front is 120mm longer than a zuk front leaf, a lux rear is longer still...
Think he means fixed end---pin---shackle end. Lux rears have offset centre pins.

Flat length Front Half Rear Half Width SOA / SUA
80-85 Toyota front 45" 22.5" 22.5" 2.36" SOA
Jeep YJ Front or Rear 45" 22.5" 22.5" 2.50" SUA
80-83 Toy Rear 48" 21.125" 26.875" 2.36" SOA
84-88 Toy Rear 48" 20.5" 27.5" 2.36" SOA
89-95 Toy IFS Rear 51" 21.5" 29.5" 2.36" SOA