redrilling spring pack

[Dee]

I'm running a full RUF with missing link shackles at the front, the result moving my diff foward around 35mm. This combined with 33 x 12.5's and a 1" ext shackle means i get a bit of scrubbing at the front/inside of the flare & a tiny bit of rub on the headlight bucket, at full flex with a bit of steering going.

Ive made some plates up to move the front spring back 60mm in the rear hanger, but want to keep most of my wheelbase extension (ideally about 25mm). I was planning on redrilling spring perch/u-bolt plate but I dont think the the perch has enough material to redrill 50mm back (35mm - 60mm + 50mm redrill = 25mm extension o/a)

question is can I just redrill my top main leaf 50mm forwarrdand move the 3 under it to the new drilled point on the leaf or should I be drilling all 4. Another concern is the leverage on the top main leaf from the spring plate where the old hole is. I dont want it to fatigue & fail because theres less material there. Or is that a non issue due to the leaves under it supporting it???

I thought about getting the grinder/hammer out (as one of the flares is damaged anyway from a flop) but then I dont get the advantages of being able to go to a 2" extended shackle also improving my approach angle...

[want33s]

question is can I just redrill my top main leaf 50mm forwarrdand move the 3 under it to the new drilled point on the leaf or should I be drilling all 4. Another concern is the leverage on the top main leaf from the spring plate where the old hole is. I dont want it to fatigue & fail because theres less material there. Or is that a non issue due to the leaves under it supporting it???

I wouldn't recommend just redrilling the top leaf and moving the lower leaves to match as one end of the top leaf will be unsupported and will probably bend.
If you do redrill the eye bolt hole, then the old hole (unsupported by axle tube saddle and lower U-bolt plate) is most likely where the leaves will fail IF they decide to let go.
Not too likely though IMHO.

I thought about getting the grinder/hammer out (as one of the flares is damaged anyway from a flop) but then I dont get the advantages of being able to go to a 2" extended shackle also improving my approach angle...

Extended shackles might aid in flex but won't improve your approach or departure angles.

[Dee]

I thought about getting the grinder/hammer out (as one of the flares is damaged anyway from a flop) but then I dont get the advantages of being able to go to a 2" extended shackle also improving my approach angle...

Extended shackles might aid in flex but won't improve your approach or departure angles.

yeah i see what ur saying, but the only way they'll improve approach is because i will be getting rid of the missing link at the front, essentially moving the whole shackle back 60mm. The reason i want to go to the longer shackle is to try and get the rear to sit a little more level with the front is all, but anyway, maybe redrilling the spring isnt the way to go then...

[want33s]

I don't think its the missing link or the extended shackle itself that ruins approach/departure angles, it is the spring being pushed closer to the ground/further away from chassis that does it.
RUF appears to be great for flex and ride quality but bad for approach angle..

[Gwagensteve]

RUF appears to be great for flex and ride quality but bad for approach angle..

Pfft tyres must be too small then

It's a fair point - but I haven't Rufed anything running under a 34 so it isn't really a limitation once you're at that size.

Steve.

[fool_injected]

Spoke to a spring manufacture about doing this and he thought it would be OK

If we can get enough people we may be able to get some sets made up with the hole drilled 50mm forward

[alien]

i'd say hardest part would be drilling them in the same spot... lol