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Central locking wiring
Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2004 9:22 am
by goforitifyoudare
My 92 feroza Sxp has central lokcing for the 2 front doors, but i cant find any reference to it in the manual. can anyone tell me i this would eb a standard fitting?
I am about to install an alarm, and i bought a central locking kit with it, so I could have keyless entry, but now i dont think i will need the locking kit, if only i can find the wiring for the existing central locking.
it only has a master actuator on the drivers door. i.e only the drivers door will lock/unlock the passenger door.
any help would be much appreciated.
Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2004 9:39 am
by murcod
You'll find you've got a solenoid in your passenger door and only a microswitch in your driver's door (if it's factory central locking.)
You'll need to fit a solenoid into the driver's door and add a couple of relays to interface it to your alarm's remote locking. You only need to drive the new solenoid from the alarm output as the factory locking will take care of the other door via the microswitch- so there's no need to locate the factory central locking wiring at all.
Fairly easy job, but there isn't much space in the doors to mount the solenoid.
Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2004 10:01 am
by goforitifyoudare
so i wil need the kit that i have got, in order to install a solenoid in the drivers door anyways.
thanks, now all i gotta work out is the dodgy wiring diagram for the alarm, to figure how it integrates with the locking!!!
Thanks
Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2004 5:10 pm
by murcod
Here you go:
alarm wire diagram
Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2004 5:31 pm
by yoda
most alarms will offer keyles entry cheapest way is to buy an door lock module. The module will have 4 wires(normaly) two goes to the door motor (solinoid) the black on the motor to earth(body). the othe 2 to the alarm you will have to check (tempory wire) and activate alarm if the motor locks the door hardwire. Did myne just to find the diagram was wrong so the doors unlocked wen I activated the alarm woopie. Depending on the type of motor you buy (size does mater) it should fit right below the locking pin there is heaps of space and the first hole is factory driled mount it bend the ataching arm so it has a straight line to push pull cut it of and you are away laughing. The alarm is slightly more complicated and It will take a couple of pages to xplain. just send an email if you get stuck.
Cheers yoda
Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2004 5:56 pm
by murcod
Simon's already got central locking in his Feroza (factory fit by the sound of it?) so all he needs to do is place the one solenoid into his driver's door. Then wire it up to the alarm module lock/ unlock signal wires as shown in the previous diagram using the relays.
The new solenoid will operate the driver's door lock whenever the alarm remote is pushed. As the new solenoid locks or unlocks the driver's door, the factory central locking microswitch already in the door will be activated causing the passenger side door to do the same.
It works- that's exactly how mine is wired and how professional alarm installers do the job. There's no need for an extra central locking control module in this case.
centarl locking
Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2004 8:24 pm
by yoda
is it just me but what diagram. Most car alarms wont have the power to drive standard relays thus alarm boys made a module with low curent relays and a couple of diods to prevent fuses poping. I did my alarm and central locking myself. Just neede to do the driver door thats right but the cost of 3 relays was $45 and the premade module $17 (wich ment no back feed to the alarm) unlike most I also did my back door and still have the function of the centre console switch but it now operates all the doos not just the back.
Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2004 2:51 pm
by jabboo
can you explain how you made the back door operate on the central locking for the front doors.. i really want this feature becuase every time i lock my car i have to check if the back door is locked or not.
and im sure others would like this aswell.
Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2004 3:38 pm
by murcod
I've done it on mine, but it involves disabling the centre console switch. (Not much of a drama if the alarm has remote boot unlocking, plus better security if someone breaks in.)
I'll let Yoda put his method up as his still has the centre console switch operational.
centre console swich
Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2004 4:45 pm
by yoda
loop wire from swich to pasanger door back door now operated with the other doors. bingo
wire the centre console to the new motor/solinoid in door. it is very easy but a lot more work than it sounds you almost have to strip the dash to the frame as most of the wireing is under the carpet and into the dash.
Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2004 7:48 am
by goforitifyoudare
Thanks for all the help.
I got mine working fine on the weekend.
the alarm module already had about 6 wires with the relays for the door locks. i ended up having to buy a single slave door actuator to put in the drivers door (about $9) and wired that one to the alarm. left the factory microswitch etc working, so that the passenger door unlocks with it.
I havent dont the back door yet, but my alarm has a single wire for the remote rear door, all i need to do is run this single wire from the alarm module to the door switch on the centre console.
Will do this one next weekend.
Thanks again for all the advice.
Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2004 8:29 am
by murcod
The rear door locking mechanism is simply a solenoid, the votlage across it is reversed each time it is locked/ unlocked.
One of the problems you'll find is that the centre console switch earths out some of the wires when it's unactivated sitting in the neutral position. So when the alarm goes to lock the rear door you'll be blowing fuses all the time because the switch is shorting the output to earth- that's why I've left my switch unplugged.
I did work out a way around it, but it involved a couple of relays and a rat's nest of wiring..... I lost motivation!
Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2004 12:21 pm
by Slayer
way i did mine was get into the cluster of wires from the alarm system with a multimetre.. looking for 2 negitive current wires that give a 1.5 second burst on the arm/disarm of the alarm.. i found my 2 wires in about 5 minutes and just tapped them into the wires into the master, so then on the arm/disarm it also sends current and pushes the master up/down..
Posted: Mon Feb 02, 2004 1:31 pm
by murcod
What sort of vehicle is that on Slayer? From your avatar it looks like you've got a Hilux/ Surf?
The Feroza's have only got a microswitch in the driver's door, so need the extra solenoid installed for remote locking capabilites. Daihatsu were obviously try to save some $$$!
This post was originally in the Daihatsu section (probably a better place for it, being a vehicle specific enquiry) but has mysteriously been moved...