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Mounting Fox/King bypass shocks

Posted: Tue Jan 22, 2008 12:32 pm
by Newhouse
Hey all! Does anybody have any info or pictures of how they have done it?? Ive seen different ways but am not sure what way would be best. I have a GQ SWB and would like to extend the wheelbase out abit but also keep the fuel tank in the original position. Any info/ ideas would be great.
Cheers,
Newhouse. :D

Posted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 7:14 am
by nzdarin
It will be tough to extent the wheel base much without moving the tank as it is right in the way. I've extended 10" and there's no way it could have been done with the tank still there. The pipe cross member that the tank attaches to is now the centre of the axle so has been shifted back 10" as well.

Posted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 8:42 pm
by smee2u
I may be able to get you some pics in a cupla weeks of how mine are set up if your interested. Im in the process of getting my king shocks fitted now. Having to manufacture all new mounts and new rear hoops etc...

Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:24 am
by BrettInUte
talk to ATS in Geelong.

Posted: Fri Jan 25, 2008 7:59 pm
by sideways
hi

I i have just made my wheel base longer and i managed to gain nearly 8 inches and i still have my orignal fuel tank , i just turned it around so the filler is on the other side and instead of the tank bolting up from the bottom i have it so it drops in from above .I had to move the rear cross member , the one the tank bolts onto back about 40mm . its tight under there now but everything fits. I will see if i can find some pics

Posted: Sat Jan 26, 2008 4:31 pm
by Newhouse
Thanks for all the info, pictures would be awesome sideways,
cheers.

Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 8:28 pm
by ELF_83
im mounting triples in my swb as well want to stretch it a bit too but question is what is the best stuff to make the shock hoops out of cause i don't think the ones you can buy will not be big enough for my car, 2" lift with 14" triple bypass piggy's. mountin'em up real high to get max up travel and lot of droop while jumpin. I think from memory the rears will be at the same hieght as the rear window frames.

Posted: Mon Jan 28, 2008 9:32 pm
by Newhouse
Your going to have to cut a whole in your floor anyway. Mine is a style side ute and I was thinking off cutting the whole floor out anyway :armsup: Its going to be different, thats for sure!

Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 6:50 am
by Sandy Rut
my hoops are made of 43mm OD (cant remember what they called it - 40NB pipe maybe)x 3.2mm seamwall. dont see the point in spending big $$ on flash 1020 or 4130, unless you are gonna do all tube work in it. $40 a length for seamed mild vs $105 for 1020 vs $$$$$$ for 4130

Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 7:11 am
by tuf045
Sandy Rut wrote:my hoops are made of 43mm OD (cant remember what they called it - 40NB pipe maybe)x 3.2mm seamwall. dont see the point in spending big $$ on flash 1020 or 4130, unless you are gonna do all tube work in it. $40 a length for seamed mild vs $105 for 1020 vs $$$$$$ for 4130

43MM od would most likely be 32nb

Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 7:14 am
by Sandy Rut
tuf045 wrote:
Sandy Rut wrote:my hoops are made of 43mm OD (cant remember what they called it - 40NB pipe maybe)x 3.2mm seamwall. dont see the point in spending big $$ on flash 1020 or 4130, unless you are gonna do all tube work in it. $40 a length for seamed mild vs $105 for 1020 vs $$$$$$ for 4130

43MM od would most likely be 32nb
Ahhh yeah thats the stuff i used - thanks mate

Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 8:49 am
by ats4x4dotcom
we do the front for 10" stroke 2.5 triples this way

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and the rears for 14" stroke 2.5's we make a replacement sub frame that replaces the tube x member, and new lower diff weld on mounts which sit higher than the standard ones, our sub frame triangulates back to top of spring towers, to stop them bending as well.

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We also use a spring for front and rear we have had designed with a 100mm taller free height to stay captive, with 3 and 4" lift for these shock lengths, along with sway bar links, HD panhard rod washers to stop the bushes flogging out, slimline drop boxes, HD steering arms with tie rods that travel far enough, alloy hats for 80 front bump rubbers to mount in the front, etc etc which make for a great amount of wheel travel, and still very nice to drive at high speed.

Image

We also do bolt ons for same coils in 2.0's in 10" and 12" stroke.

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Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 9:41 am
by Sandy Rut
front swaybar looks pretty vulnerable in that first pic? - is the truck in that pic running drop boxes?

like the idea of your 100mm-xtra-free-height springs :cool:

Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 10:34 am
by ats4x4dotcom
sway bar is normal spot, longer link, so it goes full uptravel and down travel with 10 " stroke shocks.

vehicle has slim line drop boxes for up to 4" lift.

one of the spring designs is pretty evident on the front in the ramp pic.

fox

Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 10:49 am
by micka1
Any Prices ??

Re: fox

Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 10:51 am
by bogged
that setup, makes my pencil hard.

Re: fox

Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 1:43 pm
by ats4x4dotcom
micka1 wrote:Any Prices ??
Depends on what the vehicle already has fitted, but from scratch on a standard gu or gq installed and a rough in tune/test 4 hours with the owner is aprox $9485.00

If its a wagon, a drawer set with shortened drawers hides the boxed in hole where they stick up.

in this is

2 x 10" stroke 2.5" Fox piggy back reservoir triple bypass shocks, with last part of up travel past bypass tube set up as hyd bump stop.

2 x 14" stroke 2.5" as above

install kit inc all mounts, hats, bump stop spacers, alloy hats, rubbers for the shocks.

slimline drop boxes

slinky coils

HD panhard washers and adj panhards

all braided brake lines [6]

sway bar links

HD steering arms with tie rods that have enough travel

new fuel filter mount for diesels

And Fox damper and our custom brackets to suit our HD arms.


wheel align, test and tune session, etc etc


Image

Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 2:29 pm
by Newhouse
Thats very cool :armsup: Obviously everything is engineered. I live in Darwin. Can a set-up be sent here? The only reason I ask about the engineering is that every year cars need a road worthy and engineers here are painful.

Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 6:48 pm
by brentz
mmmm betta start saving :D

Posted: Tue Jan 29, 2008 7:42 pm
by ats4x4dotcom
Newhouse wrote:Thats very cool :armsup: Obviously everything is engineered. I live in Darwin. Can a set-up be sent here? The only reason I ask about the engineering is that every year cars need a road worthy and engineers here are painful.
The only real chassis mod is the rear x member replacement, you would need to check on this and the drop boxes with your local people for compliance.

Re: fox

Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 3:56 pm
by bogged
bogged wrote:that setup, makes my pencil hard.
ats4x4dotcom wrote:
micka1 wrote:Any Prices ??
... but from scratch on a standard gu or gq installed and a rough in tune/test 4 hours with the owner is aprox $9485.00
Pencil fixed. :shock:

Re: fox

Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 9:17 pm
by ats4x4dotcom
bogged wrote:
bogged wrote:that setup, makes my pencil hard.
ats4x4dotcom wrote:
micka1 wrote:Any Prices ??
... but from scratch on a standard gu or gq installed and a rough in tune/test 4 hours with the owner is aprox $9485.00
Pencil fixed. :shock:

Its only a bit of wood, when it has no lead in though :finger:

Re: fox

Posted: Thu Jan 31, 2008 9:35 pm
by bogged
ats4x4dotcom wrote:Its only a bit of wood, when it has no lead in though :finger:
dont need the lead in it no more, got 2 kids :finger:

Re: fox

Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2008 4:35 pm
by Sandy Rut
ats4x4dotcom wrote:$9485.00
:shock: :shock: lots of $$$$ just to be trendy/ fashionable :shock: :shock:

no wonder everyone is getting blue lightforce covers - high fashion at a fraction of the cost :D

;) ;)

Posted: Fri Feb 01, 2008 5:09 pm
by steel
just a question about those slinky coils. will these coils allow full compression to the standard bumpstops on the front end of a patrol without binding ? im looking for a 75mm lift coil for the front of my nissan that will stay captive at full extension & also not bind up & limit compression. i have standard bumpstops & 250mm travel dampers mounted in the stock locations.

Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 10:03 am
by ats4x4dotcom
Bogged, you got two, had a dna test done :finger:

Those shox arent just trendy/fashionable, you have to have run them, to understand how good they are.

Bolt ons cut the installed cost on a standard patrol with install, and everything required to make it drive/handle/work to around $5500.

And the coils do not coil bind with our bump stop mounts which are more progressive, and 30mm longer than standard bump stop, to take the 10" stroke shocks.

Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 12:21 pm
by steel
so by how much do your bumpstops limit compression? 30mm? if they don"t limit travel, then those coils won"t bind with my setup & i may be interested in some of your coils. do you sell them seperatly & how much do you want for a set of 4?

Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 3:34 pm
by ats4x4dotcom
steel wrote:so by how much do your bumpstops limit compression? 30mm? if they don"t limit travel, then those coils won"t bind with my setup & i may be interested in some of your coils. do you sell them seperatly & how much do you want for a set of 4?
what type of vehicle, how much lift, and what spring rate do you require?

Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 5:24 pm
by bogged
ats4x4dotcom wrote:Bogged, you got two, had a dna test done :finger: .
already did, didnt believe they were her kids...
Those shox arent just trendy/fashionable, you have to have run them, to understand how good they are.
You need to fit some up to my truck as a long term test setup.... :armsup: :armsup:

Posted: Sat Feb 02, 2008 5:49 pm
by GUJohnno
bogged wrote:
ats4x4dotcom wrote:
Those shox arent just trendy/fashionable, you have to have run them, to understand how good they are.
You need to fit some up to my truck as a long term test setup.... :armsup: :armsup:
Not a bad idea... except yours only gathers dust from inactivity! :finger:

Would be better on a dark grey GQ anyway