Outer Limits 4x4 Board

not that i need it thing time of year. heater core frozen solid this morning

stariondriver wrote:heater core frozen solid this morning

Ouch - that doesn't sound like fun at all.

Couple of Q's though...

You do know that the "black box" that sits on top of the rocker cover is responsible for a significant increase in mid range torque ? The power and torque curves in the manual clearly show this.


Have you measured the air temperature where you have the pod filter vs the traditional spot ? The alloy tube is going to pick up a lot of heat.

stariondriver wrote:not that i need it thing time of year. heater core frozen solid this morning

Might have to run Vodka for coolant

MightyMouse wrote:

stariondriver wrote:heater core frozen solid this morning

Ouch - that doesn't sound like fun at all.

Couple of Q's though...

You do know that the "black box" that sits on top of the rocker cover is responsible for a significant increase in mid range torque ? The power and torque curves in the manual clearly show this.


Have you measured the air temperature where you have the pod filter vs the traditional spot ? The alloy tube is going to pick up a lot of heat.

you gotta be kidding me about picking up a lot of heat. the stock bow is right by the exhaust manifold, this is on the cool intake side. ever pop your hood and put you hand in the engine bay ??

its cool on the intake side and searing on the exhaust side.

and ya i know the black box peice on the air intake it a improvement but where the hell to get one? besides, this is better.

How on earth is your bonnet going to close? That alloy tubing must be almost 100mm diameter at a guess?

The only way I see that fitting is if you move the battery to the other side, drop your radiator down a couple of inches, convert to an electric thermo fan and relocate your coolant over flow bottle.

How exactly does the snorkel fit to this?

I don't see this in any way a cold air intake.

Just a pod filter on a bit of bling pipe.

try to answer the questions......
murcods question...
1) the bonnnet or hood as we cal it over here wil close . the 180 "bling pipe" will bend down away from the t/b putting the air filter in the corner or the engine bay on the intake side. the piping is 3.5" diameter

HotFourOK
2)if i did fab up a snorkel it could easily attach via a silicon coupler. in any case a lot easier than the stock air box and mess of convoluted plumbing.
and the reason its cold air intake is the air on that sid of the engine bay will not be constantly warming the filter. the gaps from the grill and headlight area will allow some outside air to be pulled in also


qoute from another rocky owner
"One thing performance-wise that I changed is the air intake system. I couldn't believe how many feet of tubing I took out of that engine bay when replacing it with a high-flow system. The difference in power was noticeable when I first drove it but of course, now I want more. "

i was going of of Doug's rocky for some of my inspiration too. if it works for him on the hot side of the engine bay it oughtta work for me on the cold side

http://www.dougfreeze.com/rocky/forsale ... 87_JPG.htm

http://www.dougfreeze.com/rocky/forsale ... 89_JPG.htm

http://www.dougfreeze.com/rocky/forsale ... 88_JPG.htm

gotta be better than a MRT hot air intake
http://www.mrtrally.com.au/performance/photo/mrt045.jpg

I can see the alternator ! and the block water inlet.

Does it have power steer or is it just removed whilst your working on it ?

Have you measured the inlet air temp behind the headlight when driving and then at the firewall ?

MightyMouse wrote:I can see the alternator ! and the block water inlet.

Does it have power steer or is it just removed whilst your working on it ?

Have you measured the inlet air temp behind the headlight when driving and then at the firewall ?

no i thought i mentioned it has no a/c or power steering already.
i havent measure the temp i do have a tool to do that. right now its not worth doing it too cold out but i will update that later on.

i may route it different too

keep us posted - sometimes you just have to try things and see what happens.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10281978@N05/2274675853/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10281978@N05/2275468922/

Now those are interesting results........

Prompted me to do some quick checks.

Using a 14 Channel "ETAS" data acquisition system and J type thermocouples.

Readings taken whilst driving at a constant(ish) 80KPH on the freeway after allowing the vehicle to fully warm up.

Ambient 35C
Air temperature of moving air behind headlight ( std intake position ) 35C
Air temperature of moving air between battery and brake booster (RHD) 48C

I suppose the only way to really know is to probe the air temp in the intake manifold with both setups as that's what really matters. Unfortunately with a RHD vehicle with power steer your setup won't fit.

stariondriver wrote:http://www.flickr.com/photos/10281978@N05/2274675853/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10281978@N05/2275468922/

Could you only see these temps when stationary?

MightyMouse wrote:Now those are interesting results........

Prompted me to do some quick checks.

Using a 14 Channel "ETAS" data acquisition system and J type thermocouples.

Readings taken whilst driving at a constant(ish) 80KPH on the freeway after allowing the vehicle to fully warm up.

Ambient 35C
Air temperature of moving air behind headlight ( std intake position ) 35C
Air temperature of moving air between battery and brake booster (RHD) 48C

I suppose the only way to really know is to probe the air temp in the intake manifold with both setups as that's what really matters. Unfortunately with a RHD vehicle with power steer your setup won't fit.

try your readings on some more slow driveing off road or up hill short trips. you test is highway driving. also i dont have a brake booster over there. slower driving might allow a little more heat soak on that metal air can.

and you mention my setup wont fit with power steering ? okay but i am pretty sure i already mentioned i dont have power steering,so in fact my set up will fit.

HotFourOk wrote:

stariondriver wrote:http://www.flickr.com/photos/10281978@N05/2274675853/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10281978@N05/2275468922/

Could you only see these temps when stationary?

yes these where stationary after a 2 mile drive at about 45 mph to my driveway. this was just to show how much warmer the exhaust side of the engine bay is.
Might Mouse got lower readings by the headlight versus the battery compartrment. that means if you got air from the intake side headlight it would be colder yet.

the title of my post guys was not "This Is The Be All End All Of Daihatsu Intake Options"

pretty sure its possible to do better than the factory intake piping

update for all you nay sayers. check the pics ,this is off my brothers car ,its a cheap ebay cold air intake. ya i know it is not clearing the coolant resevoir but thats a easy fix.
it will go lots closer to the throttle body anyway.

This latter version shows much more promise IMO - I assume you will run a pod style filter ? Make certain there's enough "give" in the piping to allow the engine to move.

As for the "nay saying" ...... you post stuff and people will comment, if they don't agree with you - well that's what happens in forums.

Everyones free to make their own judgement.

the silicon couplers do seem to have a fair bit of flex from what i have seen so far

some of my other ideas
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10281978@N05/2274682873/

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10281978@N ... otostream/

Now here's how not to make an intake, but I must explain, this was done out of necessity as I went camping after quite a lot of rain, to an area called the 14 river crossings no less....one would have thought that may have given me an idea to the likelihood of deep water but alas, set up camp between two of the deepest crossings, add a little more rain overnight, about 20cm more depth to the water and this was what I had to construct to get the Roza through water to the top of the headlights

BTW the pipe came from an abandoned(or so I hope) shed that we found close to the campsite

To all those who appreciate silicon spray....it certainly saved me from a watery grave...long live the wd40!

You make a strong argument for a snorkel...... still if it got much deeper the dissy would be a problem.

And - that pipe looks awfully new

True about the dissy, but in defence of the mighty roza, and the undeniable physics of air pressure against water ingress under the bonnet, all turned out ok. The hottest part of the engine worked out to be a great place for the pod filter as all moisture was basically burnt off before it got there......not so good for pvc though.

Snorkel coming shortly....oh sh!t, just got deja vu....has someone said that exact line before

BTW the video below is three days after the water subsided a little. Was safest to wait and live to wheel another day

The pipe was basically brand spankers as the "abandoned shed" was more like a weekend cabin. The pipe was inside along with a lot of other material probably meant for the restoration of the place.

No fear to those who think me a thieving mongrel, my mate in his lifted disco was nice enough to drive back and replace it once I made it to safety and dry land some 8 river crossings later.

nice duct tape!!

Only the best for the Roza

Ok i am almost ready to fit my snorkel here is the start before i create the hole and the pipe that will lead out.



I am not finished yet with the inside i need to plug in all the missing pipes on the large pipe.