Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hi i have a GQ patrol running 4.6 diff gears and 36" tyres. just recently the hubs have been getting very hot so hot that i cant lock the hubs without a riggers glove on. also they have been getting harder to engage, to point of sometimes having to use pliers to turn the selector.

Any ideas?

run a kit through them and use a good grease

Could it just be the wheel bearings?

chimpboy wrote:Could it just be the wheel bearings?

hence putting a kit through it, may as well do all the seals etc then you are doing the bearings

that said, being through much mud and or water lately? could just need a very good clean and regreasing to get you buy for now

dillza_69 wrote:hi i have a GQ patrol running 4.6 diff gears and 36" tyres. just recently the hubs have been getting very hot so hot that i cant lock the hubs without a riggers glove on. also they have been getting harder to engage, to point of sometimes having to use pliers to turn the selector.

Any ideas?

my gq did that for yrs.
new bearings, swapped em left for right, brakes, etc.. never worried, just kept gloves handy

You got 36" tyres. Any chance the brakes are now under extreme stress and there is a chance it's heat transfer from the pesky disk rotors bolted to the hubs?

Tiny wrote:that said, being through much mud and or water lately? could just need a very good clean and regreasing to get you buy for now

yes lots of mud and water might give it a go then.

as for the brakes thought. this did occur to me but it happens even after a long slowish drive with very minimal brake use so not even the rotors would be as hot as the hubs were in some cases.

thanks for all the replies will let you know of the outcome
cheers

there is only one way to test if your bearings are getting hot, next time you head to the coast, Ie sitting on 100k's an hour for 40 mins plus, pull over with engine breaking and dont touch the breaks (or obviously your discs will transfer breaking energy into your hubs!), helps to use the handbrake for the last 10k's an hour of slowing down...

now simply jump out and feel the aluminium surrounding your hub locks. I just did this today, as I reciently repacked my bearings and did new rotors etc new seals etc ect.. they were luke warm. (wanted to check they were all running fine)

When I repacked them one side has a slight bit of moisture in there. I would assume that if the moisture was left there, things could start to get messy, they are working pretty hard if you think about how many revolutions they do an hour... Plus the heat they put up with every time you stop 2.8 tonne of truck on a hot road, with engine heat radiation, and spinning the wheels.

Your supposed to repack your bearings every 30 000 k's IF you do this, my old man can vouch from experience, that your bearings will last well an truly over 500 000k's.

i have a bit of an update. I havent had a chance to check the hubs yet. when i was backing the car up a hill in 4wd with hubs locked in i noticed even with the front locker engaged only one wheel was spinning, i checked all connections for locker and it was working fine so i unlocked the hub of the wheel that wasnt spinning and locked it again and then it worked fine ( ie both front were spinning) also when in 4wd and only when hubs are locked in there is an occasional loud and very disturbing bang/knock coming from the left side hub area which has recently become very hard to switch to the lock position.

any feedback on anything i have mentioned would be greatly appreciated

http://www.exploroz.com.au/Forum/Topic/ ... x%3fpn%3d1

interesting thread on same issue as yours.


Rang me mate John who lives by the river, and he suggested that I remove the brake calipers from their fixed position, tie them securely to somewhere on the front end, manufacture a wood spacer to fit inbetween the brake pads ,making sure it is all thoroughlyt tied and cannot shake loose and go for a drive to see if the hubs were still heating up.

Did just that with tie-wire and plastic cable ties and went for a 20km run, being careful not to touch the brakes and used gears and the handbrake only.

Hubs were cool when I got home. Then I reassembled the lot and went for another 20km run and guess what, Hubs were HOT!

So there you go, it is a crook brake system all along and not the wheelbearings

bogged wrote: he suggested that I remove the brake calipers from their fixed position, tie them securely to somewhere on the front end, manufacture a wood spacer to fit inbetween the brake pads ,making sure it is all thoroughlyt tied and cannot shake loose and go for a drive to see if the hubs were still heating up.
wheelbearings

fark thats a game method, drivin around with the breaks disconnected from the rotors haha! I woulda thought 20k's on the highway would prove if your hubs were gettin hot, plus a quick touch of the rotors would indicate if the breaks were rubbing too much, thus the rotors would be red hot also..

at least you would be able to stop if someone pulls out infront of you!

Ibsn wrote:fark thats a game method, drivin around with the breaks disconnected from the rotors haha! I woulda thought 20k's on the highway would prove if your hubs were gettin hot, plus a quick touch of the rotors would indicate if the breaks were rubbing too much, thus the rotors would be red hot also..

if you knew where he lived its not an issue

i have a gq on 38s and have the same problem with my hubs

[quote="madog"]i have a gq on 38s and have the same problem with my hubs[/quote]

Bigger tyres equals more leverage the disk brakes have to fight.

It's like putting an extension bar on a spanner!